Archive through May 10, 2012

[balbrecht]

Kraig M,
My dad's 127 also came with the black starter generator new from the factory.

 

[tstewart]

Dennis, the tractor I want to use doesnt have a front pto, which was why I decided to use it - I need the pto for my mower/tiller/snowblower etc and I need that at the house. The 129 w/o pto I was just going to leave up to the place I hunt and cut firewood. So thats why I was asking about running it off the flywheel side.

I had a couple extra truck batteries kicking around (if they are still good) I was going to use, wallmart maxx-1 I think it was called, 1000A. It would be dual purpose, since I need some counterweight up front to help the front tires I was going to build an extended bumper with a battery box behind it.


<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

By Dennis Frisk (Dfrisk) on Wednesday, May 09, 2012 - 10:14 am:

TRISTAN - Yes, the stock S/G is limited on output. It's not hard to exceed it's charging capabilities. My 12V sprayer pump draws 7A and when I run it the S/G gets too hot to lay your hand on. I put a damp towel on it between batches of spray to cool it down but it doesn't help much.

I think I'd try to run an alternator off the frt PTO. Trying to turn the alternator, hydro, etc would be a pretty good load for the starter portion of the S/G. A bigger battery is required. I run a 525 CCA battery in my 72, think it's a group #26, the old one was 600CCA but Farm & Fleet doesn't carry that rating anymore.

Don't forget to put proper circuit protection in any new light circuits or power feeds to winches. I had to replace the in-line fuse holder on the 72 yesterday because the old one, maybe 4-5 yrs old started to MELT, and it was a BIG heavy-duty one rated for 30A, I tried a plug-type fuse this time instead of the glass tube style fuse.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

 

[cmwkrill]

questions: I looked tonight and there was a snap ring on my driveshaft. I think its internal for something and i have no clue where it came from or recollection of seeing it. any ideas? Also: I think my PTO may be a little messed up, or I have how it operates a little skewed in my head. Can anyone help? isn't it supposed to push the outer gear-thing back into the inner gear thing?... or does it go the opposite way..? or am I way off base altogether? I'll see if I can get pictures.

 

[hydroharry]

Charles MW Krill - where are the pics, where are the pics, where are the pics!!! If by snap ring you mean a C-clip on your drive shaft is very likely off the hydro fan. Although it's a plastic fan IH used a really stiff C-clip on the hub of the fan to hold it in place on the drive shaft. Where are the pics!!!
I noticed ont he restore list you said you painted the head - that's really a no no. especially black. Paint retains heat and black paint more so than other colors. Better get your sand blaster warmed up at least for the head. I admit I paint my blocks black and all the tin work. I paint the breather/valve cover and the points cover yeller along with the air cleaner. It's a nice contrast to all black. And I leave the head bright aluminum color. Course I'm a show tractor kinda guy these days.
And I saw you asked about paint. Some guys swear by the Case/IH IronGuard, and some like the CCC. If you're using a spray gun some like the automotive brands. For my money, best gloss appearance and durablity, I like the Case/IH IronGuard 935 white, and the CCC yellow (from the IH era).

 

[mgonitzke]

Harry-

Bead blasting would be ok, but I would not sandblast aluminum. It creates a very rough surface that can initiate cracks.

 

[dfrisk]

TRISTAN - Since you don't have a PTO, you should have some bare crankshaft available, I'd still mount a pulley and drive the added alternator from the frt of the engine, not the back. Be a whole lot easier to install/remove the belt if you don't want to run the extra alternator. An alternator should not add that much drag to the engine when starting. I like the idea of the heavy truck batteries being frt ballast. Plus if you have starting issues, you can always jump the tractor battery from the winch batteries.

Hydro HARRY - I tried an "Off Brand" belt once, probably 20 yrs ago, think it was a Dayco. For the mule drive on my old 129/44A deck. It lasted about a MINUTE. It was too stiff, wouldn't do all the twists & bends a mule drive belt has to do, flipped off the idler pulleys after 10-15 seconds. Otherwise all I've ever used for mower & snow blower belts have been IH/MTD belts. I did buy a S/G belt or two at Farm & Fleet once years ago too. They worked fine.

The new mule drive belt I put on the other day was much narrower than the 3/8" it was supposed to be. I was told when I bought it late last summer that MTD "Substituted" a narrower belt in place of the old style belt they supplied years ago. Salesman said I would be lucky if it lasted HALF as long as my last one did. He might have been optimistic! I had some pretty tall grass I mowed the other day, and at wide open in 1st gear I could hear the belt slipping BAD in a couple spots... No smoke from the belt like I had a year or so ago with the 982 & 50C deck in tall grass. But the mule drive belt I smoked on the 982 is still running.

I'll see how long this new mule drive belt lasts, I have two, maybe three spares now, two brand new IH belts and I think one new old stock IH belt from years ago. Think I'll try to find a Gates Green Belt in the size I need for the 72/38" deck, 3/8" x 81". I know I won't waste my time & money on another Dayco.

 

[hydroharry]

Matt G - agreed on the bead blasting aluminum instead of sand blasting. I guess I'm old school in the terminology and use that as a catch all for what ever media is used. I actually don't care much for sand blasting anything if I can avoid it. Besides the surface appearances I've seen some thin metal items get brittle as well.

Charles MW Krill - should have said to use beads as Matt noted.

Dennis F - I remember something about CCC getting a batch of belts made that were mis-sized by their supplier. I thought they were supposed to have been pulled and replaced with correct ones. You might want to check with some others and see if they have the correct 3/8's belt.

 

[dfrisk]

HARRY - These last two I got from my other local dealer, they look slightly better, but the very old belt I have looks much better still in comparison.

I'll see how they hold up, I know Bryan & others have used Gates Green belts with great success. I'm sure I can find one somewhere around town!

 

[dtanner]

Dennis Frisk

I bet you could blame that belt issue on the metric system !

 

[kfreeman]

The belt that I have for my 1250 and mower is from the Cub Cadet dealer. It is just shy of 1/2" wide at the top. So I have always wondered why they are called 3/8" belts. Are these belts supposed to be a 3L, or some other standard cross section?

I tried a Gates green belt, but it was a 1/2" and it was too stiff. It rolled over. That dealer did not have any narrower belts.

 

[jbaker]

Sorry to go back to the S/G paint color but this stuff peaks my intrest.
My book says all cubs upto the 1x8/9 series the S/G were painted yellow at the factory, and that the black color from factory started at 1x8/9.

I know we see pictures and testomonies that there are black s/g on narrow frames from factory.

also Kraig that picture earlier of the 149 sure looks like 147 sticker from here, but you do have the high res pic.

 

[sblunier]

Since the decision to not paint S/G's was entirely driven by sourcing/purchasing based on $$$$ saved, I'm sure that seires/model numbers didn't matter much and that late model xx6/7 models had black S/G's because that's when the engines started showing up with them that way.

 

[hydroharry]

Steve B - are you saying Kohler supplied the S/Gs with the engines?

 

[jbennett]

Does anyone know what guage steel was used on the original timed decks? Found a place on ebay that is making them out of 10ga or you can get 7 or 1/4ga.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Brian, sooo, is that you in the drivers seat?

Jeff, that is the full resolution version... It may very well say 147. Here's some for you from a prototype Operators' Manual:

 

[kmcconaughey]

Harry, yes Kohler supplied the S/G with the engines until IH figured out that they could buy the S/G cheaper and install them themselves.

 

[sblunier]

Harry,

It is my understanding that Kohler supplied the S/G as part of the complete engine up until the time they changed to black. IH purchasing/sourcing determined it was cheaper to cut out the middle man and buy the S/G's directly from Delco instead of pay Kohler to install and mark-up....therefore, somewhere between xx6/7 and xx8/9 production a purchasing decision changed the apperance of the final product every so slightly.

This is my understanding of the color change based on discussions here from long ago and the other various books etc. in my IH library. I could be wrong, but think I'm pretty darn close

 

[drglinski]

Just ordered an 8 rib replacement tire for my 147 (front) from Miller. Hoping it'll come soon so I can get in more seat time!

 

[bjamison]

Dennis - were you running a 5/8 belt on your 982 & 50C deck? That must have been some tall grass. I've had the 1/2 inch belts slip on my other color tractors - I have yet to get the 1650 back together for a mow or anything else...

To many irons in the fire.

The deck I have for the 1650 is/was a 44C and I changed out the pulley for a 1/2 inch belt. I wondered if I should/could have changed the 1/2 pulleys and PTO upstream to 5/8 and eliminated any slippage.

BTW - I did some reading about a "speed-up" pulley in the archives. I measured the pulley I ordered for my 44 inch deck and it measures less than 5 inches in diameter, from what I can remember, 4-1/2ish inches. Does this mean I got the speed-up pulley?

 

[tsimpson]

I want to thank you for the advice on removing the blades on my 129/44 in. deck. I gave removing them with the deck on a 2 minute try and it was no go, no way. Removing the deck was a breeze just as you said, getting the nuts off took a breaker bar with a 18 in cheater after I soaked them with liquid wrench and heated them up.

Thanks again, If I knew about this site last year, I'd have kept my original and rebuilt it.