Archive through May 08, 2004

[gprater]

Wyatt,

That's a good suggestion about trading the old head. The thread insert is the only problem; the head isn't warped or anything like that.

This 100 came with a "pepper shaker" muffler, so I'll probably stick with that look. I can't remember if the bolts need to hold down the top baffle or tank bracket. Maybe I'll take the tank off my 125 to see how it's laid out.

 

[lbaker]

Last year my long tiller belt lasted about an hour. I took complete unit to cc dealer 3 weeks ago. A-1 tiller on a 149. They cannot find a belt to fit. The 549-250R1 is to short by "couple" inches. Nothing has changed from last year. When they install, guaranteed 90 days. Anyone have and suggestions as this NC clay is getting hard.Right belt number? Plan on measuring with a rope tomorrow to check lenght.

 

[nfisher]

i have an engine electrical question (not my strong suit)...

my dad has a K301 in a mid 70's OT blue tractor that has the same engine electrics setup as the QL series cubs. while cutting his lawn it experienced sudden death without warning, not so much as a hiccup, and has not had spark since.

has anyone experienced this type of behavior and can suggest what component might be the problem?

it was running fine until this happened.

~thanks.

 

[digger]

Lyle B,
549250R1 13/32- 143 7/8"
That's the belt the book calls for BUT depending on which style Mule Drive you have and how you have it set up, You might have to go to the QL belt that is longer.
61959C1 7/16- 145 1/2"

 

[digger]

Nate,
What Steve said down the page a ways.

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Anyway, as always #1 FUEL, #2 valve, coil, etc.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

 

[lhall]

Tedd,

Just had a run in with the coil on my 782. They are easy to test. With an ohmmeter, the primary should read pretty close (+-.5 ohm) of 5 ohms. The secondary should read infinity to case or to the other low voltage terminals. And between the two towers should fairly close to 9700 ohms. Take a reading before the coil warms up and after. The reading should not change much or at all. These tests, although not 100%, should give a pretty good idea as to whether or not you need to lay down $100 bucks for new coil. Hope this helps..

Leroy

 

[lbaker]

Thanks Digger!!

 

[rchristensen]

Nate Fisher
You say it was running fine, quit suddenly and now no spark. How did you check for spark? Do you have a voltmeter to check for voltage at the coil? If you don't have a meter I would change out the spark plug first. Check for broken wires between the ignition, coil, and points.

Unless you just run out of gas carbruetor problems usually act up before quitting. Spark plugs can fail without notice. They can run fine all day and then just quit firing.

Coils can quit but most will act up when you are starting or when under full load.

Condensors, I have changed out a bunch and probably never had a bad one.

Points usually act up before quitting.

When I have a electrical problem I
1. check voltages and wiring for possible breaks, and all grounds.
2. replace the spark plug.
3. replace the condensor.
4. replace and adjust the points.
5. replace the coil.

The reason I use this method is it is the cheapest and usually the best way to go.

I never touch the carbruetor until I have completely gone through the electrical.

Just my .02 cents.

 

[elamott]

Manual lift on 129 hydro

I have a manual lift on my 129 hydro and the lift lever is slipping on the shaft so it does not lift. There is a pin that goes through the lift handle housing and goes through the shaft and out the bottom side. My question is how do I remove the pin. I have to remove it to see why it is slipping. It looks like it is an expansion pin that is just driven in and out but if it is it should not slip unless it is broken. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks and have a great day.
elamott
THIS IS A GREAT SIGHT.

 

[lbuttke]

Had a great weekend, filled up my small garden ( 60ft X 100ft ) on mothers day. Now both my wife and mother are both happy and I still need space for my sweetcorn. So with that I decided to plow up another plot, a bit bigger in size. 1/2 acre in size. Rembering how much fun it was to plow with my 102 and the 10" plow in this rocky 20 year old sod I decided to use my 3235 and 3-point I got this year.
I works far better plowing old sod, with the depth guage wheel and the hydro 3-point to help control depth.


(Message edited by lbuttke on May 10, 2004)

 

[nfisher]

thanks for all the suggestions, i did not check with a volt meter but did have a brand new plug on it. i have a feeling it might be the coil. the one he had on there did not look original to the machine and i bet it wasn't a Kohler coil.

the points were good, no breaks in the wiring.

i'll let you know how it turns out this weekend.


(Message edited by nfisher on May 10, 2004)

 

[tschweizer]

Nate, the one that they need is the one right below the one you're talking about.

Ryan, UPS sucks!! I'm trying to get them to switch over to Fed Ex at work.

 

[sblunier]

Nate,

Are there safety switches built into the ignition circuit????

Do you have 12v between the (+) side of the coil and ground????

Does the voltage at the coil change if you wiggle the key switch???? (they are known for going south due to the vibration)

Is the battery charged and carrying a full 12.5 volts??

Try using an aligator clip jumper to run 12v from the (+) side of the battery directly to the coil...this will bypass all of the safety switches etc. and give you an idea if it's a wiring problem or not. (Obviously, be safe when doing this) If it runs like this, you will have to remove the jumper wire from the battery end to kill it.



(Message edited by sblunier on May 10, 2004)

 

[dkamp]

Nate- If it's not a Kohler coil, there's a pretty good chance it burned itself open... the single-cylinder's dwell-time is MUCH longer than what a four, six, or eight cylinder automotive engine is put to, so without probably 2 or even 3 ballast resistors, it'll cook itself to death... but it'll run like gangbusters up to that point.

UPS- yes, I had that happen on MANY occasions at my last residence. I even saw 'em drive into my neighborhood, put a sticker on the door (saying 3rd attempt, returning to sender) and leave WITHOUT KNOCKING. Seein's how it was shipped from Madison the previous day, there was no way they could've made three attempts. My residence was in view of surveillance video, so I sent a copy to the local supervisor and another to the district person. Shortly therafter, the delivery person was changed, and that never happened again. I'm not sure why they play this game, but a friend who once wore a brown shirt said that it did have an effect on performance-incentives. Seein's how I knew my current route-delivery guy long before moving here, I get very good service.

Travis- someone's trying to close a deal, but hasn't gotten a response from you... have the lines of communication broken down? Shall I pass on your phone number?

 

[aaytay]

Travis-
UPS may not be the best, but the good 'ol USPS found my house today with the brackets!

Even with raunchy blades, these 60" decks cut great. I had both a 44" and 50" deck on my 1450, then had a 46GT deck on the 1872 and this far surpasses any of them!

 

[dwoodward]

Can someone pleeze tell me about the electric lift on CC 147. Brought new gear ($110, ouch!!) and it still won't lift consistently. Is there a kit or straightforward way (short of an engineering degree or machine shop) to convert it to hydraulic? I've got several implements, don't particularly want to convert it to a manual lift. thanks

 

[lbuttke]

UPS has no problem finding my place out in the sticks where I live.
Even Digger managed to find my place last year.
For some feason Fed-X is the ones who can't fid my place even with simple driveing direction from Cadott, which is only 4 1/2 miles from where I live and play in the dirt.

 

[aaytay]

That's funny, Charlie got lost trying to find my place....
;-)

 

[dkamp]

Hi Dave!

Narrow-frame lift kits were available... they're pretty near-and-dear nowdays (well, compared to wide-frame, which was more prevalent). Pulling off the electric and mounting hydraulic SHOULD be a pretty easy deal, with the sole exception of mounting the pump and pump-belt... I'm thinkin' the belt goes on the flywheel side, which means the driveshaft needs to be uncoupled and engine slid-forward to get it in there.

Before you go rippin' the electric out... is the electric motor running consistently? With no load on the hitch, when you flip the switch, does it operate immediately, etc? If so, install a 'lift assist' (spring and rod arrangement)... from what I've seen, the electric lift actuator is pretty strong, but not strong enough to reliably heft out heavy 3-point/sleeve-hitch implements. The lift-assist spring does help quite a bit, and will make the motor (brushes) last longer. Trying the lift-assist will be MUCH cheaper and less trouble than yanking the electric and installing hydraulic.

 

[wcompton]

FWIW on the ignition problems, the Poins Saver that Dave Kirk markets nearly eliminates problems/guesswork. No condensor, and likely the points will last a long time. Only things to check with a Points Saver is that the coil works and that the ignition system has power. You don't even have to check your points gap since it's got an LED to check the timing against the flywheel.