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Archive through May 07, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Avery - I'd go with foam. I've ran tractors with foam and YES it is a rough hard ride but with a CC and small wheels and no suspension it's a rough ride anyway. Buy a good suspension air ride seat and let that little feller earn his keep.

Frank S - Send a limo down here and I'll ... Naw forget it ! I'm NOT getting anywhere near that thing !
Like was said , start with the basics and the manual and backtrack what you have already done.
The throttle should still work if you have the cable right. Take it loose , extend it (full speed) and hold the carb open at full throttle then clamp it to the engine. It should operate.

KI - You get that pesky 149 cracked open yet ?
 
Wayne:
I would be very surprised if a non-working ammeter actually prevented the generator from charging the battery if the connections are all clean on the ammeter - why? Because the ammeter has a very heavy "shunt" that carries the current through the ammeter and then uses taps at both ends of the shunt to measure the voltage drop or induced current(which is what shows on the meter). Get that volt ohmmeter out and check for continuity across the two terminals. To check if the generator is charging, measure the battery voltage with the tractor not running (should be around 11.9 volts) and then with the tractor running (should be somewhere around 14 volts)...

Kentuck - us retirees have a short attention span - I got sidetracked putting an air horn on the Yamaha - cage drivers need waking up
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Thanks Gerry-

The problem I was having is it did nothing when I changed to that ammeter. I have since gotten another ammeter and it started right up. The needle on the ammeter isn't moving but the ignition now works. Apparently something was broken inside of the ammeter causing the problems but the needle would move when you had it in your hand. This one I'm using now won't move (needle) at all and shows nothing when the tractor is running. I'm now leaning towards the v/r either needing adjusting or simply being defective. Electrical problems can kiss my behind. I'd rather rebuild ten mech. ptos than chase one electrical situation. I'm learning though.

Thanks again.....Wayne
 
Kid<sub>e</sub> - You know they say when you reach a certain age you revert into your second childhood ... might explain the short attention span and wanting to play with "other" toyz.
 
Jon Lamp,

I used this disgram to get the M18 in my 782. Got it off of this site way back when...

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Wayne:
It should show a discharge with the key on, if not, it's bad also...If it wouldn't crank with the other one, I'd guess the connections between the shunt and the two studs is either corroded or broken..
 
I'm pretty sure this sh*tty job is due to a broken deck belt tensioner spring:
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And the 129's supposed to be ready to leave here tomorrow. I'm diggin' Digger. Check CCSpecialties Order Dept.! Small Flat Rate Box and out the door?
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Frank S.,
If I recall correctly, I believe the manual recommends NOT to exceed 30* degrees of angle when running these Kohler-powered Cubs.
I'd guess the main reason would be to keep the oil in the bottom of the engine so it can be splashed around, not laying up on the side of the crankcase....
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Ryan Wilke
 
Hi guys. I am installing a right angle gear box on the rear PTO of my 100. The belt pulley will not fit with the rear hitch installed. The pulley is 9" in diameter, and is way to big. Does anyone know of a pulley I could use on it? Thanks, Greg
 
Ryan:
I just checked the 1x8/9 Ops manual and couldn't find any cautions regarding angles of operation (which is good, 'cause you'd never be able to run one in Tennessee or Kentucky). Obviously there are limits and I know my ZTR manual has lots to say about it, but I think you're confusing it with the problems on KT-17 Series I twins that DO have an oiling problem on sidehills. Frank was mowing up and down anyways (not sidehill like they do in the hill country)..
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I'm having an issue with a walbro carb. I got my 108 out today and it runs fine with a black replacement engine. I even drove it around the yard for a while with no issues but later on it started shutting down. I know it's the carb because it will run with the choke pulled out just a bit. I took the carb off and noticed a little trash in the bowl so I went through it with a good cleaning. It fired right up with no issues but now it shuts down after the bowl emptys. The gas flow is good, I went through all little ports with a fine wire, and used carb cleaner and compressed air to try and clean it out. No luck. Has anyone had this issue with a walbro before? I'm hoping this is a common disease with these crappy carbs. I guess it will come off again in the morning. I need this tractor to work and it's starting to p**s me off.

Any and all appreciated....Wayne
 
Wayne
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

...it shuts down after the bowl emptys. The gas flow is good<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
That's a contradiction in terms.
If the gas flow is good why does the bowl empty ?
Needing the choke pulled out is 2 symptoms.
#1 - The fuel line or the carb is partially plugged.
#2 - You have an air leak around the carb gaskets (usually carb/block gasket)


*as a side note that I keep seeing*

I don't know why everybody jumps on the carbs as being junk. A carburetor is one of the least things to tear up since there are so few moving parts. All they need is clean air and fuel and proper adjustment.
 
<font color="ff0000"><font size="+2">5000 registered users</font></font>

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Hmmm are theses two related? I see a close resemblance
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Now on topic I mounted engine,drive shaft, and tower today on my 129 "earl shibe" clean up
 
KENtuckyKEN:
I am still Kickin. Have not been here in a while.
Hi to all
 
Three years ago my next door neighbor said he was interested in getting another lawn tractor/mower. I tried to steer him towards a rebuilt / restored IH Cub Cadet but he had a serious brain fart and bought a cub LT1018.

I told him when he got it that my 1968 125 would outlast his brand new one.

Tonight, the mighty 125 had to pull his lame LT1018 up to his garage so he could replace the drive belt ( just one of many problems he's had ).

I think he's starting to see the light
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Kentuckyken, Not all of us have 5hp air compressors to throw enough air into these little tires fast enough to bead them. GO TUBES! theyre still an easier to maintain
 
Charlie - <sub>H</sub><sup>i</sup>C<font size="-1">k</font>up ... aw you keeld da partee
Well at least it wasn't as bad as the Stock Market

Frank W - Where you been in some many moons !

Jeff B - There may be kiddies present !
 
Josh - For years at the farm all we had was a bicycle pump !!!
Take out the valve core ! A 1/2hp 5 gallon tank will seat a tire IF you know how.
 

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