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Archive through March 28, 2007
- Thread starter bcook
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Went to an auction today and found an interesting book. "TC-157 CUB CADET TRACTORS" Serial No. 400001 to 665000 Parts Catalog. It is revised and issued 2-81. It is bound and about 1 1/2" thick and covers Models 76 through 1650, 81, 1100 and 111. It is called Revision No. 24. It looks similar to what I have seen in the looseleaf parts books. From reading, there is a companion for Models prior to Serial No. 400001 called "TC-113" Only came home with one 106. It has the rear PTO so I got crazy with the bid. Passed on a second 106 donor type and a 582. Forgot to bid on a CUB CADET Tiller...one of the smaller chain driven units from CCC, nearly new.
A few updates,
So far the field is looking great, snow is gone, drying out very well.
Also,
The pulling sled is ready to roll.
Midwest Super Cub is planning on coming.
The reps for Cermax are going to be there.
There may be a chance that RFDTV will send someone too!
So far the field is looking great, snow is gone, drying out very well.
Also,
The pulling sled is ready to roll.
Midwest Super Cub is planning on coming.
The reps for Cermax are going to be there.
There may be a chance that RFDTV will send someone too!
On the axle pin - sometimes they get worn so that it has a step in it and locks in. I don't remember if it was Steve B or someone else or if I did it on my own but ... if you put a clamp on the front and back of the saddle it'll hold it so that the "step" doesn't try spreading the saddle and locking the pin tighter. It probably wont work everytime with all pins as some we be worn to bad. Time for plan B, a recipicator!
If you heat the axle "cherry red" you've tightened up the axle on the pin and you've blown your advantage of heating it! The hole gets tighter as the axle swells!!
If you heat the axle "cherry red" you've tightened up the axle on the pin and you've blown your advantage of heating it! The hole gets tighter as the axle swells!!
Dennis F.,
Thanks for the info!
Now I am equipped to go forth into the world with the necessary amount of authority & knowledge that only a TRUE MAN should possess!
(what...? Opps, sorry. I always seem to get a little carried away whenever I learn something
)
Roland B.,
Thanks for the deck ID info! The "dinner bell must have just rang" when the one deck was being produced, which could explain why it only received 3 digits in the ID# to the right of the 42U-, rather than 4 digits.
I was thinking those numbers were merely production numbers, and that the 3 digit numbered deck may simply of been made earlier than the 4 digit numbered deck.
Thanks again for solving yet another mystery to me!
Ryan W
Thanks for the info!
(what...? Opps, sorry. I always seem to get a little carried away whenever I learn something
Roland B.,
Thanks for the deck ID info! The "dinner bell must have just rang" when the one deck was being produced, which could explain why it only received 3 digits in the ID# to the right of the 42U-, rather than 4 digits.
Thanks again for solving yet another mystery to me!
Ryan W
Lonny B.,
What KENtuckyKEN says is true.
A quick story: Years ago, I was working on a truck engine block that had a broken off bolt in the casting. I thought about trying to drill it and use an EZ out to extract it, but it was in a tough location to drill. So, not wanting to ruin the block, I requested the advise of an older-than-me fella friend whom was a machine repairman forever
. He told me, "YEAH,,,,Bring it over and for a bottle of Rum, I'll show ya how to get that stub outta there."
Basically, what he did/said to do is to heat the pin or bolt, not the casting it's stuck in... In that way, the pin expands with the heat and SHOULD somewhat "crush the crud" that's between the two parts and then as soon as it's hot, but not hot enough to start to transfer heat into the casting, dribble some penetrating oil onto the parting line, allowing it to be pulled into & between the two parts, then lightly tap on the bolt stub. The tapping will encourage the penetrating oil to seep in... Yeah, it'll smoke a bit and maybe even flame, just blow the flame out and put some more oil on it. As soon as the oil stops bubbling from the heat, turn the bolt stub (or in your case, tap on the pin). If it still doesn't move after 5 minutes of effort, apply a bit more penetrating oil & leave it for at least 2-hrs to allow ALL the heat to dissipate out of the parts. Then start over & repeat. Many times it'll take two or three attempts before it'll come out.
As KENtuckyKEN pointed out, there WILL BE some pins/bolts that simply work come out - as sometimes they're just too badly worn and there isn't any saving them
. Never-the-less, I have used this procedure many times with success...
Keep us posted on your progress!
Good Luck!
Ryan W
What KENtuckyKEN says is true.
A quick story: Years ago, I was working on a truck engine block that had a broken off bolt in the casting. I thought about trying to drill it and use an EZ out to extract it, but it was in a tough location to drill. So, not wanting to ruin the block, I requested the advise of an older-than-me fella friend whom was a machine repairman forever
Basically, what he did/said to do is to heat the pin or bolt, not the casting it's stuck in... In that way, the pin expands with the heat and SHOULD somewhat "crush the crud" that's between the two parts and then as soon as it's hot, but not hot enough to start to transfer heat into the casting, dribble some penetrating oil onto the parting line, allowing it to be pulled into & between the two parts, then lightly tap on the bolt stub. The tapping will encourage the penetrating oil to seep in... Yeah, it'll smoke a bit and maybe even flame, just blow the flame out and put some more oil on it. As soon as the oil stops bubbling from the heat, turn the bolt stub (or in your case, tap on the pin). If it still doesn't move after 5 minutes of effort, apply a bit more penetrating oil & leave it for at least 2-hrs to allow ALL the heat to dissipate out of the parts. Then start over & repeat. Many times it'll take two or three attempts before it'll come out.
As KENtuckyKEN pointed out, there WILL BE some pins/bolts that simply work come out - as sometimes they're just too badly worn and there isn't any saving them
Keep us posted on your progress!
Good Luck!
Ryan W
Hey guys,
I know this was asked before either here or on the Yahoo site, but I couldn't find it in the forums...
Anybody have any information on the Cub Cadet 60? There's one for sale close to me that caught my eye. Just curious of what year it was built, engine, etc. Just general info would work. Thanks!
Brent
I know this was asked before either here or on the Yahoo site, but I couldn't find it in the forums...
Anybody have any information on the Cub Cadet 60? There's one for sale close to me that caught my eye. Just curious of what year it was built, engine, etc. Just general info would work. Thanks!
Brent
Ryan, you wrote: "Opps, sorry. I always seem to get a little carried away whenever I learn something" Looks to me like you learned how to include emoticons with your posts.
David K., thanks for the info on Kohler parts! Gives me more time to have a second Killer Kohler™ built.
David K., thanks for the info on Kohler parts! Gives me more time to have a second Killer Kohler™ built.
Brent, here's an add from the 1969 May issue of National Geographic magazine. BTW is a Cadet 60 not Cub Cadet 60.
Brent, I bet you didn't refresh your web browser, the image loaded just fine.
Ryan, naw, you didn't overdo it, I just couldn't resist joking with you on it.
Brent, here's another Cadet 60 add.
Brent, here's another Cadet 60 add.
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2006
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- Allen Schumacher
They really put a blade and snow thrower on that little golf cart!? Your kidding, right!
Kraig McC.,
Allen S.,
I'll have to agree with you.
It appears to me that the blade has bracing up against the FIBERGLASS BODY corners
and secondly, I'd guess that the 32" wide snowblower won't handle much more than the depicted ~2" of snow due to the small-ish 6HP engine! Let's not even discuss what happens when you'd be snowblowing and the wind would swirl & gust it back into your face! Brrr!!
I'm thinking that using those accessories on THAT mower wasn't the best of their ideas!
Ryan W
Allen S.,
I'll have to agree with you.
It appears to me that the blade has bracing up against the FIBERGLASS BODY corners
I'm thinking that using those accessories on THAT mower wasn't the best of their ideas!
Ryan W
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Now I guess I know why one of my 60's has a front bumper.
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- Allen Schumacher
Matt... thats so you can take it to an amusement park and use it for a bumper car. Looks neat, maybe I'll put one on my 147, give it a "richer-fuller" look.
