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Archive through March 26, 2018

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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We've had a rain/snow mix most of the day here. Thankfully the temps are such that the roads are not icy. No snow to clear and no grass to mow, too cold to comfortably work on a Cub without a heated shop. Stuck in that season of no Cub activity...
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(Moving a discussion over from the classifieds.)

Denny, old photos of your model 70 from back in the 1960s would be cool to see if you still have them. Easy to take a digital photo of an old print, provided you have a digital camera.
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Charlie, Are there any choke cables that are longer than that for the 149?
I'm having routing issues with the stock cable rubbing places like the pump, bracker, blower housing and coil.
 
David S.
The IH-401439-R92 for the 149 is about the longest there is for older Cubs. It's 27 1/2" long.
I supposed you could get some cable stock and adapt to the Cub mount.
 
I think there would be issues with the splice onto the cub dash end
I do have an NOS cable for an original I could use but have been saving that for the O when I get around to it.

Thanks for the info
 
Kraig,

I know what you mean about this "no cub activity" season. It is depressing for sure!
Another killer migraine started yesterday, making me very sleepy. Today it got worse, making me even sleepier and half nausious.
Thought I would not make it home from work without going to sleep on the road. What a bummer.

On the bright side, I may be able to do some cub painting this weekend!
Saturday they are saying it will be warm and dry. I sure hope so!!!
Not sure if the wind will be blowing or not. We will see.
 
I got some work done the other night, but snow has put a damper on it.

Next week I need to back the trailer in and give it a good going over, repack wheel bearings, adjust brakes, check suspension components, air up tires.....don;t need any trouble on the road headed to Travis's PD....
 
Anybody ever use Rivnuts, or Rivit Nuts to fix stripped out holes in the frame at the tunnel cover connections?

Diesel is spitting out anything I put in there, and I'm thinking of trying 10-24 or 1/4-20 Rivnuts their place.....

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Sreve
The OEM screws were #12, but you probably know that already. No body has them except McMaster Carr & Fastenal. I'm fresh out or I'd send you some. Fact is I came up 1 short putting TC on the 149 yesterday
I have used the rivnuts before
Didn't have all that good luck with them though.
They have to fit tight in whatever size hole they call for to put them in.
But then again I had one hell of a location to install them and wound up w/holes too big and egg shaped to boot.
 
Steve B.
Those are what I sell to guys that want to put arm rest kits on seats that don't have them already installed.
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Steve: I've used Rivnuts to good effect, even in vibration-prone applications (no diesels, though). I found them a bit tricky to install as Dave alludes. Be sure to do some trial "compressions" in similar material. I found I had to get just the right "bite" to make them seat well. When I worked with a a manufacturer of sheet metal metal products we used them all the time for fitting covers in stainless steel when we couldn't use welded studs. We use them now in an industrial setting for applications like yours when the sheet metal screws give out on cheaper electrical enclosures, but see the caution below.

Caution: The worst thing that can happen is that you don't crimp the metal tight enough with the Rivnut and then it spins: you can't tighten the machine screw down, and it is difficult to drill the Rivnut out because it spins on the bit you're trying to drill it out with.

Edit: In sum, they're a bit trickier than POP Rivets.
 
Question on a K161 rebuild for my 72 (assembled Jan 1969). Shop is telling me that the piston is sitting proud of the block by approximately 1/4 inch. Block and crank were machined 0.010. Sounds like they have the wrong rod - all Kohler parts used. Which is the correct rod to use? Looking at evil pay some rods work both in a K161 and K181?
 
Steve,

I've used rivet nuts before will great success. Used them all the time on shrouding on radiators and radiator brackets on very large gen sets. The key is to drill the correct hole and make sure they seat correctly. you can use a nut and a bolt to compress them.

Why not just weld some nuts under the frame and use some loctite on the screws? You might be overthinking it like I usually do.
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You could probably use no slip speed nuts with loctite too.
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Dave S. Re your choke cable, stop in to your local Case IH dealer and see if he has a choke cable for a Farmall 450, 560, 806, then cut to suit. Be sure your sitting down when the parts guy tells you the price.

Kraig - I have a digital camera, still needs a new battery at about $40. I don't take enough pic's to keep the battery charged up. Worked great when we went on vacation down Historic Rt. 66 several years ago and took close to a thousand pics.
 
Thanks Dennis.
I was sitting down, thank goodness, when they told me the price of a rattle can of IH 935 white!!

Which, BTW, is a far cry from Rustoleum IH white
See the paint chip comparison in my 149/loader resto thread.
 
Had the reader got the pins last night took some time and lots of wrist action. After drilling a starter hole and ream ream ream. The pin is fitting tight and the steering is like New .great fix thank for the help digger and all those that answered my post. Got my new deck drive pulley today ,guess what I am doing tomorrow. This spring my grandkids will ride the cub just like I did when my grandfather let my when I was their age
 
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