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Archive through March 21, 2018

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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digger

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Digger
Glen M.
Manuals are easy to find, Go to our manuals site to download them or Click the sponsor button above for Binder books. It don't get any easier than that!
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We've got parts covered as well.
Click those colorful buttons at the top of every page.
 
Glen M.
The part #'s identified will work for the 38" and 42" decks so your good to go with those numbers.... just need to source them maybe at ccs or cc dealer or other..
 
There are supposedly three decks made for that machine .I can't seem to figure out which one it is .I'm looking in the parts look up having a little difficulty. Guess it's just me you have it figured out pretty good. Looks like I came to the right place. Can't thank you enough for the information.
 
I don't know how you guys found the parts but you did and I thank you very much. I have the parts on order and I will have the old girl back up and running. When I can figure out how to post pictures I will post. Again thanks for all the help truly appreciated. 13 inches of snow so far I don't know how everybody else is making out. I am on Long Island New York
 
Glen...
Well, I guess you won't need a deck yet....for a few days anyway!!LOL

We won't here in eastern Iowa either, as we have a crappy weekend ahead of us here also but not near as crappy as what you folks are looking at!!

BTW>....WELCOME ABOARD!!
 
Jeff B.

Once again, hydros are never going to roll easily around the shop when not running......with either type of check valve. The hydro unit has a LOT of parts that must move to allow it to roll in Neutral.

Check out the guts of a Sundtrand U-15 hydro and you will find 2 ea. piston pumps with slipper feet that ride on swash plates...all of this causes internal friction.

If it works when running, just make sure you park your tractor where you don't have to push it!
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Cut out and Welded up all holes in deck. put in New grass diverter. Just have to make sure deck is not racked. Should be good for another season.19"of snow total maybe I should be looking for a blade
 
Thanks Steve, It really only baffles me being that if for whatever reason it were brake down in the field, it would be dragging the rear wheels back to the shop. Not a big deal for me because I don't have any fields...... Just find it odd to have been designed that way when my other manual relief unit rolls, and come to think of it, I did roll this one into the shop by hand from the upper garage without the engine in it.... hmmm now I am back to thinking again. What could have changed??
Anyway I put it back together this morning, repaired the trunion, now just getting the rest of it setup to give it a go.

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Hey Steve,

Are manual relief vs automatic relief valved hydros the same hydro units with exception of the valves?
Both have hydraulics, the spare I have is from a 1250 I believe, but could be a 1650 also, came as a parts tractor with a few others.

I may eventually pull the one with manual valves apart for a look see
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Jeff B,

The 15U Hydro pumps (non-ported/ported) are basically similar. Manual and Auto dump relief valve are interchangeable but wouldn't recommend them be intermixed although that may work okay.

What oil are you using in your 1650 transmission? HyTran is the recommended oil which your can get from your local CaseIH or Cub Cadet dealer. If you are using something else, it may have a higher viscosity which would affect the amount of effort required to manually push your 1650. Colder temperatures also make it more difficult to push compared to warmer temps. Likewise pushing a hydro just after mowing is much easier due to the higher transmission oil temperature.

As Steve B mentioned, Hydros will always have some resistance to rolling when pushed manually. When you mounted your pump to the transmission housing did you notice any problems getting the four attachment bolts to align with the mating holes in the housing? Any evidence of something binding requiring you force alignment of the holes? That could be one possibility.


If you think your pump is requiring excessive force, then the only other recommendation I can make is to disassemble your Hydro pump and see if any parts (motor squash plate, motor plunger slippers) have evidence of scoring.

If a previous owner ever towed your 1650 too fast or too far, then some of the motor parts may have been damaged. That's why IH always had warning decals on the tunnel covers to not tow Hydros. The damage can occur do the lack of adequate lubrication without power.
 
Ron, Digger, Steve,
IT'S ALIVE!!
Tricky getting all the adjustments just right but think I did ok..
When I first set up the linkage (with bracket all the way up) to get the wheels to stop rolling by tapping down the bracket, got it set and then applied the brake which actually set it back into forward before braking. Got it adjusted though so that when driving and apply brake, disengages drive to 'neutral' then brakes. Will have some fine tuning to do on tie rods of linkage to get things snugged up and where they should be.

Oh.... and it ROLLS
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Replaced all the steering tie rods, straightened quick release bar and installed new springs.

Oil is likely Hytran, I haven't replaced it yet.
Now that its functioning that will be on the bucket list, along with getting the darn "NEW" carb to stop leaking. Valve continues to stay open when float max up, float adjustment fine.
Think I'm just going to put a new valve and seat in the.....uhm, did I say NEW carb.... lol I want to find a way to get a fuel filter inline somehow, or preferably a sediment bowl but see that being tricky with the tight space under tank/shroud and behind breather backing. Any suggestions?
 
Glen M., WELCOME!
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Jeff B., nice job on the trunion repair.
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Jeff B I run an in-line fuel filter on my 1450 when I get home I’ll snap a pic or two,Kraig could I impose on you to post them for me ?
 

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