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Archive through March 17, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Arnie G. -

OR you can read the FAQ at the link above...
 
Art-

I have no idea what these bars are for.

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I asked the PO and he said, "they were on it when he got it from the original owner some 20 years ago."

They do make kinda nice "wheelbarrow" handles for lifting the back end around ! ! ! !

Jerry-

That is Brenda playing with "her" 1980 Scout that we just transplanted a healthy IHC V-304 into. Lifted it 2" just for appearances. I hardly get to drive it unless it's just the dogs and me. Sniff-sniff, boo-hoo ! ! !
 
Kraig, package on the way!
Looks like Cub Connection needs it too! 7-hp is enough for the loader. Out in the driveway I can push untill gravel is pouring over the top of the bucket. Ag tires and about 350-380 in ballest on rears! This a first gear only stunt however and requires a VERY tight belt. With this much weight a person should greese the rear bushings every time you move it. Still is a lot of fun!
 
Jerry, OK, I'll be on the look out for it. THANKS!!

Cub Connection, I should have info for you on the Danco RD300 very soon.
 
Wyatt ...Where did you get the lye stripper ? what brand is it? Looks like it does a good job
 
I have used Red Devil® Lye in the past to strip a couple frames, wheel weights and mower deck parts. Fill up a 55 gal PLASTIC drum with water, pour in the lye, and add heat or aerate for quicker results.

Doesn't remove rust, decals or grease.
 
Will be heading west in the morning for South Elgin, IL. I should get to Mike Masheris's place about rush hour(that looks like fun). I am spending the night their and heading to the IH show in Auburn, IN and hope to get there before 11 AM. I hope to see a couple of you along the way.
 
Well, I spent some time doing the final button up on the 72 last night. I had pulled the engine to facilitate replacement of a leaky rear crankshaft seal as well as installation of a new wiring harness and a carb rebuild.

The Cub-Gods were, for the most part, lined up as the engine started and ran well with no oil leakage, electrical gremlins, or carb issues, but the "rebuilt" fuel bowl did not want to cooperate.

Seems as though the o-rings that I used to replace the leather "packing" must be getting in the way as the fuel flow is very slow even though the entire bowl assembly was cleaned in a dunk-can of carb cleaner and the tank was cleaned out as well. I thought I remembered talk about using 2 o-rings, so that's what I did, but I'm interested in hearing your thoughts about where I went wrong.

Willie D-
Have a safe trip!
 
Art,

Did you remove the leather packing???

2ea. 1/8" o-rings fixed my 100 up real well...be sure to carefully "feel" for the orings when you backseat the valve in the open position.
 
I'm also interested in hearing anyone's thoughts on an air-compressor in this size range.
16925.jpg

3.5hp, 20gal tank, oil-free two-stage pump.

I was originally thinking of going with a larger stationary compressor
16926.jpg

7hp, 80gal tank, splash lube two-stage pump) and plumbing it into the garage, but I like the portability that the smaller one offers because I have two seperate garages. I figured I could just plumb both garages and just hook up the compressor to either garage as needed.

Would I be shooting myself in the foot with the smaller one? I'd be doing normal cub stuff with either version. (air tools, painting, maybe a small blast cabinet in the future..)
 
Steve-
Yep, I removed the leather packing. Thanks for confiming that it takes two. Maybe I'll tear it apart (again) tonight for a closer look-see. <font size="-2">I HATE working with gasoline!</font>
 
Hey Todd- On that hour-meter- didn't you say you got TWO of 'em that were bad?

I'm thinkin', and perhaps Kirk might have similar experience due to his work with the Points Saver...

IF... there's some sort of a problem with your points, condenser, etc., you might be getting enough backlash from the coil's primary circuit opening to 'bite' the hour-meter, rendering it permanently 'dead'. If the meter worked when you first powered it up, but stopped working once you started (or even just turned-over) the engine, that might be the case... in which, I'd check the condenser & points... something ain't snubbin'...
 
Art, I bought a 5hp 22 gall upright. I absolutely HATE it!!! It is so loud that I can't even stand to run it.
 
ART - Your on the right track with the larger 7? HP compressor, Big tank, splash lubed. Problem is the compressor runs so fast, and I bet the motor only pulls what 15A @ 220V? which actually makes it about a 3 HP motor. Home Depot used to sell IR which is a pretty good compressor, I got a Porter Cable, Sanborn is now Campbell Hausfeld and they're alright too for light duty home use. My compressor makes a lot of noise too but then it only needs to run for 2-3 minutes once or twice a day.
 
I have a Sears 6hp, 33gal 150PSI oil free single stage, and it is so loud it is crazy, so I moved it to my oil room (connected to workshop) and have been working on plumbing the shop here and there.

I can run my angle die grinder, chisel, and die grinder just fine..and I don't have to wait for the compressor to catch up. It also works my Handylift without any problems...

It does run more than 2-3 times a day like Dennys, but it works for me. I have yet to run the sandblaster on it yet, but according to specs, it should work just fine.
 
My 5hp 20 gallon oil-less is same-same.......wow is it loud!!!!!!

Get the piston pump!!!!
 
Art, I'll start mine up at midnight tonight. I bet if you stand outside, you'll hear it
lol.gif
 

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