R
roundy fendered cubs rule!
Guest
Bob & Kraig,
Here's my original sticker to compare with.
Here's my original sticker to compare with.
-
This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.
Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades
Archive through March 17, 2004
- Thread starter aaytay
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Herb, OK. When it acts up have you tried moving the hydro control lever to see if it will start, i.e.: let off of the brake pedal, move the hydro control lever forward or back then back to neutral then press the brake pedal down and try to start it again?
Kent. thanks for the comparison photos.
Kent. thanks for the comparison photos.
Steve B., thanks, good to hear that you and Big Steve are doing well. You're good at hydro issues, am I headed in the right direction on Herb's problem?
F
farmall gray
Guest
Dave Kirk,
That hourmeter isn't inductive. It is just a
2 wire hookup. "+" from the igniton switch and "-"
to ground. I got another email back from hobbs and they gave me a couple things to try.
That hourmeter isn't inductive. It is just a
2 wire hookup. "+" from the igniton switch and "-"
to ground. I got another email back from hobbs and they gave me a couple things to try.
OK guys, I went for the Model 86. Thanks for the responses. It's all there and runs quite well. Now for another novice question:
Has anyone tried just making up a snow blade to mount on the front? The 86 will be parked in the garage facing my totally flat and level driveway which is only 30 feet long.Usually I just shovel this by hand, but if we get 4 to 6 inches, it gets pretty heavy by the end of the drive. My idea was to mount a 2 x 10 or 12 onto the mower mounting bracket and leave it up enough to clear the ground and then just push the snow forward. I'm not worried if it does a sloppy job, I just want to move some of the bulk out of the way.
My CONCERN is that I don't want to wreck the mower bracket in the process of testing out my invention. Any (constructive) thoughts?
Thanks
Dave
Has anyone tried just making up a snow blade to mount on the front? The 86 will be parked in the garage facing my totally flat and level driveway which is only 30 feet long.Usually I just shovel this by hand, but if we get 4 to 6 inches, it gets pretty heavy by the end of the drive. My idea was to mount a 2 x 10 or 12 onto the mower mounting bracket and leave it up enough to clear the ground and then just push the snow forward. I'm not worried if it does a sloppy job, I just want to move some of the bulk out of the way.
My CONCERN is that I don't want to wreck the mower bracket in the process of testing out my invention. Any (constructive) thoughts?
Thanks
Dave
bmcmeen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2002
- Messages
- 2,106
- displayname
- Bryan D. McMeen, Keeper of the Holy Hy-Tran
Dave M. -
Any particular reason why you don't want to remove the mower in the fall and attach the proper <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> snow blade to the front for the winter???
Any particular reason why you don't want to remove the mower in the fall and attach the proper <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> snow blade to the front for the winter???
F
farmall gray
Guest
Bryan,
If Dave is like the rest of us, He'll eventaully
get the fever and just get another tractor to mount the blade to. Then one for a brinly plow,
then one for snowthrower, then....
If Dave is like the rest of us, He'll eventaully
get the fever and just get another tractor to mount the blade to. Then one for a brinly plow,
then one for snowthrower, then....
C
cubconnection
Guest
I bought a Danco loader over last weekend that had had some modifications done to fit on a 122. I was thinking it was going to be the correct one for a 70 thru 123. It had a home made front bracket, and were it bolts to the tractor had been widend to fit the frame, I was not sure what it fit but it looked like the factoy part of the front pump bracket would slide into a original frame. I did some figuring and checking, and it bolts right into the front of the original, the arms and everything line up and work fine on the original. I contacted a guy in PA Lanni Ohmines that has one on a original, ant he said that the model # is the correct one for a original, when I bolted it on I had to use spacers since the front had been widend. I was wondering if there were any clear pictures out there of the brackets on each side were the loader frame bolts to the tractor frame so I can get it put back to original. Any help would be great. I think the model is Danco RD 300, here is what it looks like on the original.
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,826
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Dave M.
Bryan is right...about $150 will buy you the correct 42" snow blade for your 86...then you can plow your drive and the neighbor's just because plowing snow on a Cub is so dang fun!!!!!
Bryan is right...about $150 will buy you the correct 42" snow blade for your 86...then you can plow your drive and the neighbor's just because plowing snow on a Cub is so dang fun!!!!!
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,826
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Herb, Kraig,
Does the N safety switch operate correctly on your 149??? (does the "clutch" need to be down to start it??) If so, I'll bet this is part of your problem.
It sounds to me like you have a tractor with a sloppy "N" positioning linkage and possible mis adjusted "N" setting ("N" on the pedal and "N" on the lever don't correspond). The slightest movement of the linkage when the "clutch" is pushed down to start the tractor can cause the hydro to want to start "in gear".
Hydros can be sensitive to oil temperature and hot/thin oil might cause the hydro to behave differently than cold/thick oil...this more than likely explains the "come back later and it's fine" situation.
1st step with any hydro that you are unsure of (or have not recently serviced) is to change the oil and filter. Use only the HYDRAULIC oil suction filter/strainer specified by IH...DO NOT substitute a car oil filter, they are not the "smae thing". Use CIH Hytran Ultra or it's equilavent. Sometimes a simple servicing on a 25 year old hydro works magic.
Does the N safety switch operate correctly on your 149??? (does the "clutch" need to be down to start it??) If so, I'll bet this is part of your problem.
It sounds to me like you have a tractor with a sloppy "N" positioning linkage and possible mis adjusted "N" setting ("N" on the pedal and "N" on the lever don't correspond). The slightest movement of the linkage when the "clutch" is pushed down to start the tractor can cause the hydro to want to start "in gear".
Hydros can be sensitive to oil temperature and hot/thin oil might cause the hydro to behave differently than cold/thick oil...this more than likely explains the "come back later and it's fine" situation.
1st step with any hydro that you are unsure of (or have not recently serviced) is to change the oil and filter. Use only the HYDRAULIC oil suction filter/strainer specified by IH...DO NOT substitute a car oil filter, they are not the "smae thing". Use CIH Hytran Ultra or it's equilavent. Sometimes a simple servicing on a 25 year old hydro works magic.
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2006
- Messages
- 3,290
- displayname
- Home of the Plow Special
Bob-
Nice find! That deck even has the oft-broken chute guard! Did the tractor come with the front blade too? (It's got the lift link on the handle, so there must have been one at one point)
Mind me asking what this black bar is for?
Nice find! That deck even has the oft-broken chute guard! Did the tractor come with the front blade too? (It's got the lift link on the handle, so there must have been one at one point)
Mind me asking what this black bar is for?
Hey Herb- What COLOR is your Kohler engine?
If it's BLACK, then go to KohlerEngines.com, and download the service-manual for the K91-thru-K341 engine, then turn to page 6.5.
The original engine to come with your 149 SHOULD'VE been IH yellow, while service-replacement-engines were typically Kohler black. My 109 had a service-replacement K241 which was extra-grumpy about starting, 'till I saw that note...
Apparently, when they did some design changes, it had a side-effect on the choke operation. Originally, the choke-plate has a pair of 3/16ths holes drilled through it for 'choke relief'... but that isn't enough relief to keep the engine from flooding right-quick, so they advise that one of these holes get drilled out to 11/32nds...
If lack of sufficient relief is the issue, then one way to solve it, is to not pull the choke out all-the-way. I found that I could start the engine with no choke, pull it all the way out for just one rollover, then push it back in to get a fire going... so I re-adjusted my choke cable so that when pulled out all-the-way, the choke would only be partially applied. The side-effect is that now when I push the choke knob it, it stops BEFORE getting all-the-way in place. Of course, I could drill mine, but I'm too darned busy doing other things...
As for hydro 'creep'... the linkage on the side of the hydro is affixed using two bolts on the transaxle that had long slots for adjusting vertical position of one plate... this changed the 'forced center' lcation of the transaxle swashplate. A little 'creep' isn't unusual. I defeat it on my 109 simply by lifting up on the 'release handle'... might not be a good thing to do, especially without seeing a hydro unit's internal workings or schematic diagram... can't tell 'ya for sure...
If it's BLACK, then go to KohlerEngines.com, and download the service-manual for the K91-thru-K341 engine, then turn to page 6.5.
The original engine to come with your 149 SHOULD'VE been IH yellow, while service-replacement-engines were typically Kohler black. My 109 had a service-replacement K241 which was extra-grumpy about starting, 'till I saw that note...
Apparently, when they did some design changes, it had a side-effect on the choke operation. Originally, the choke-plate has a pair of 3/16ths holes drilled through it for 'choke relief'... but that isn't enough relief to keep the engine from flooding right-quick, so they advise that one of these holes get drilled out to 11/32nds...
If lack of sufficient relief is the issue, then one way to solve it, is to not pull the choke out all-the-way. I found that I could start the engine with no choke, pull it all the way out for just one rollover, then push it back in to get a fire going... so I re-adjusted my choke cable so that when pulled out all-the-way, the choke would only be partially applied. The side-effect is that now when I push the choke knob it, it stops BEFORE getting all-the-way in place. Of course, I could drill mine, but I'm too darned busy doing other things...
As for hydro 'creep'... the linkage on the side of the hydro is affixed using two bolts on the transaxle that had long slots for adjusting vertical position of one plate... this changed the 'forced center' lcation of the transaxle swashplate. A little 'creep' isn't unusual. I defeat it on my 109 simply by lifting up on the 'release handle'... might not be a good thing to do, especially without seeing a hydro unit's internal workings or schematic diagram... can't tell 'ya for sure...
till
Well-known member
A
agruetzmacher
Guest
I have a 122 Cub adet and I can't locate the serial # - on the right side of the gear reduction box is a part # but no serial number.
Any other ideas??
Thanks,
Arnie
Any other ideas??
Thanks,
Arnie
Arnie G.
It could be stamped into the cast iron on a raised block next to the casting number on the right side of the rearend setting on the tractor, or, a tag on the left on the rearend housing OR it could be a tag on top of the rear end housing next to the breather hole. Take your pick and start diggin. ;-)
It could be stamped into the cast iron on a raised block next to the casting number on the right side of the rearend setting on the tractor, or, a tag on the left on the rearend housing OR it could be a tag on top of the rear end housing next to the breather hole. Take your pick and start diggin. ;-)
