That is kind of a broad question. I would check all the fluids and grease all the fittings. Probably a new plug, check the timing and carb adjustments. Just generally make sure everything is up to snuff and ready to go.
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Archive through March 16, 2011
- Thread starter tmarkle
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stanner
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- Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
Richard, Check out the FAQ for a Kohler Manual
http://cubfaq.com/enginespecs.html
http://cubfaq.com/kohlertorquespecs.html
http://www.kohlerengines.com/onlinecatalog/pdf/tp_2379.pdf
http://www.kohlerengines.com/onlinecatalog/pdf/tp_1346_c_all.pdf
Matt, See above manuals... Perhaps your automatic compression release is not up to par...
http://cubfaq.com/enginespecs.html
http://cubfaq.com/kohlertorquespecs.html
http://www.kohlerengines.com/onlinecatalog/pdf/tp_2379.pdf
http://www.kohlerengines.com/onlinecatalog/pdf/tp_1346_c_all.pdf
Matt, See above manuals... Perhaps your automatic compression release is not up to par...
jchamberlin
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- Farmville, North Carolina
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- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Richard, Dave makes an excellent point.
Technically, it is not that hard to turn wrenches to disassemble a motor and put it back together. Really worn pieces are easy to identify. If you want to do it right, you will need to invest few hundred dollars in specialized tools, and it helps if you know someone with some expertise to guide you and answer questions so you don't go too wrong the first time. There are a lot of little tricks they don't tell you in the manuals, that help make the job go more easily and ensure better results.
If you want to know more about rebuilding a Kohler, I highly recommend one of this site's sponsors web sites: Kirk Engines. He has several posts that detail exactly how he built a "Killer Kohler." He really did the job right!
If you're attempting a rebuild for the first time it IS a lot of fun. But be aware that starting the engine the first time and breaking it in correctly is critical to the success of the rebuild. You will need to change the oil often after you get it running.
Anyway, we all started where you are. Nothing ventured, nothing gained.
Technically, it is not that hard to turn wrenches to disassemble a motor and put it back together. Really worn pieces are easy to identify. If you want to do it right, you will need to invest few hundred dollars in specialized tools, and it helps if you know someone with some expertise to guide you and answer questions so you don't go too wrong the first time. There are a lot of little tricks they don't tell you in the manuals, that help make the job go more easily and ensure better results.
If you want to know more about rebuilding a Kohler, I highly recommend one of this site's sponsors web sites: Kirk Engines. He has several posts that detail exactly how he built a "Killer Kohler." He really did the job right!
If you're attempting a rebuild for the first time it IS a lot of fun. But be aware that starting the engine the first time and breaking it in correctly is critical to the success of the rebuild. You will need to change the oil often after you get it running.
Anyway, we all started where you are. Nothing ventured, nothing gained.
Here is a video of the diesel class at the Keystone Nationals in Harrisburg, Pa last Friday.
http://www.youtube.com/user/farmallgray?feature=mhum
I bet you guys can't guess which tractor I'm driving
Actually they are all Cub Cadets just with different sheet metal.
http://www.youtube.com/user/farmallgray?feature=mhum
I bet you guys can't guess which tractor I'm driving
Actually they are all Cub Cadets just with different sheet metal.
TODD - You STIILL haven't got that CC painted up like a 5488? Looked like you made a good run!
Technical question.... How do you get diesel HP for pulling with no smoke? I'd assume a WHOLE lot of air, but doesn't that send your EGT's to the moon?
Technical question.... How do you get diesel HP for pulling with no smoke? I'd assume a WHOLE lot of air, but doesn't that send your EGT's to the moon?
nbextermueller
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- Nic Bextermueller
Dennis,
Most of the big-boy diesel pullers I know that aren't "smokers" aren't running much diesel at all. They run on mostly alcohol. The little bit of diesel mixed in just becomes a lubricant. And with that and all the water or methanol they are injecting on top of it, they run really clean. And comparably just as "cool"...
Most of the big-boy diesel pullers I know that aren't "smokers" aren't running much diesel at all. They run on mostly alcohol. The little bit of diesel mixed in just becomes a lubricant. And with that and all the water or methanol they are injecting on top of it, they run really clean. And comparably just as "cool"...
NIC - Thank's for the answer. Been several, well, MANY yrs actually since I've been around full size diesel pullers. They used to "idle" on a mixture of ATF, alcohol, and something else. But as they brought the RPM's on the line when the smoke turned black THAT was diesel fuel.
I try to catch NTPA pulling on RFD TV most weeks. The newer alcohol class in the Light Super Stocks really looks fun. But leave it to Esden Lehn to compete with his "Redline Fever Lite" 460 w/504 CID 4-turbo engine. The other day they showed a nice shot of the frt of the tractor and explained how Esden had to widen the whole hood & grill 30% wider than stock to fit all the hardware inside.
I try to catch NTPA pulling on RFD TV most weeks. The newer alcohol class in the Light Super Stocks really looks fun. But leave it to Esden Lehn to compete with his "Redline Fever Lite" 460 w/504 CID 4-turbo engine. The other day they showed a nice shot of the frt of the tractor and explained how Esden had to widen the whole hood & grill 30% wider than stock to fit all the hardware inside.
Denny,
I'm still running the stock pump and injectors so the HP I'm getting is from the cam, turbo, and other hot rod mods. It is getting all the fuel that the pump will put out. It is my understanding that more fuel equals higher egts... till you get to the "way too much point" then it starts to cool things back down. So if you have too much fuel, more air (boost) will generally cool it down. Unlike a gas engine where leaner equals hotter.
I have been holding off on spending the money to have the pump worked. Since I'm mostly pulling exhibition, I'm playing around to see how far I can go with the stock pump.
I'm running right around 1700 deg for EGTs but I think I can now put more water to it to cool it down some.
As for paint, that doesn't make it run any better ;-)
Actually, I want to make sure I'm not going to make any major changes before I paint it. I am planning to make the grill screen for it soon. I'm building my own sheet metal brake to make it.
I'm still running the stock pump and injectors so the HP I'm getting is from the cam, turbo, and other hot rod mods. It is getting all the fuel that the pump will put out. It is my understanding that more fuel equals higher egts... till you get to the "way too much point" then it starts to cool things back down. So if you have too much fuel, more air (boost) will generally cool it down. Unlike a gas engine where leaner equals hotter.
I have been holding off on spending the money to have the pump worked. Since I'm mostly pulling exhibition, I'm playing around to see how far I can go with the stock pump.
I'm running right around 1700 deg for EGTs but I think I can now put more water to it to cool it down some.
As for paint, that doesn't make it run any better ;-)
Actually, I want to make sure I'm not going to make any major changes before I paint it. I am planning to make the grill screen for it soon. I'm building my own sheet metal brake to make it.
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- Home of the Plow Special
Todd-
I just about fell out of my chair after reading this:
"As for paint, that doesn't make it run any better..."
I just about fell out of my chair after reading this:
"As for paint, that doesn't make it run any better..."
TODD - I know on big diesels 1200-1250 deg is considered the "Twilight Zone" but I'm wondering if a smaller bore diameter doesn't allow you to run those EGT's longer without damage. 1700 is high, but if you can cool it down a bit it should help since it's under those conditions for such a short period in pulling.
Have to agree with you about the paint. No sense doing paint if you may have to modify the sheet metal.
Keep us posted on how things keep going and GOOD LUCK!
Couple of my buddies went to the pull back in December down by Kansas City and now they're both building pullers. CC's of couse, and they both worked for JD
Have to agree with you about the paint. No sense doing paint if you may have to modify the sheet metal.
Keep us posted on how things keep going and GOOD LUCK!
Couple of my buddies went to the pull back in December down by Kansas City and now they're both building pullers. CC's of couse, and they both worked for JD
I have a 782 diesel cub cadet that I want to use for pulling. Can anyone tell me how to modify the injector pump or change to a different injector pump? I also want to put a turbo charger on it. What would work best? I would appreciate any information on the Kubota engine I am using.
Todd Markle (Farmallgray)
Do you have a plan for different injectors ? I know on a Cummings diesel truck more hp can be had by more and smaller holes in the injectors. And do you adjust the pump timing to what deg do you use? My Ram diesel would not last long at 1700 ,I know it depends on the piston type as to what temps they will stand. my egt`s pulling my fiver can run 1200 pretty easy and that is easy controlled by my right foot lol. I would love to add a turbo to my 1512 some day just for fun. Later Don T
Do you have a plan for different injectors ? I know on a Cummings diesel truck more hp can be had by more and smaller holes in the injectors. And do you adjust the pump timing to what deg do you use? My Ram diesel would not last long at 1700 ,I know it depends on the piston type as to what temps they will stand. my egt`s pulling my fiver can run 1200 pretty easy and that is easy controlled by my right foot lol. I would love to add a turbo to my 1512 some day just for fun. Later Don T
Irvin,
How serious are you about pulling that tractor? And what do your rules allow?
A 782D is a valuable collectible tractor and shouldn't be cut up to build a puller. Hydros
aren't well suited to pulling so if you are serious you would swap in a gear drive rearend.
If you wanted to ever pull NQS or at Columbus the cubic inch limit is 75. Your D-600 engine is only 37 cubes so that is a serious disadvantage.
So if you are serious you would start from the ground up with a gear drive 82 series chassis and put a D-1105 Kubota or a 3TNE78 Yanmar which are much closer to the maximum cubes. You can send the pump and injectors to Columbus diesel and have them reworked for around $1000. You would also want to have the cam reground to take advantage of the turbo.
Now, if you just want to play or put on a show at your local pulls you could take your 782D and add a turbo from a Smart car and back the fuel screw all the way out. Be sure to add a pyromter so you can keep an eye on your EGTs so you don't melt it down. The hydro will still limit you though.
Here is a clip of my 882 (same tractor as your 782D) with a Smart turbo and the fuel turned up;
http://www.youtube.com/user/farmallgray?feature=mhum#p/u/22/D7xyVhnp-FQ I still use this one to mow grass and plow with so I didn't get too wild with mods on it.
Compare that to a clip of the puller I built from the ground up;
http://www.youtube.com/user/farmallgray?feature=mhum#p/u/5/uZ2rwcf8Noo
There are two pretty nice diesel pullers on ebay right now that may be a better option for you.
Here is a forum dedicated to diesel garden tractor pulling;
http://sports.groups.yahoo.com/group/dieselgardentractorpulling/
Don T,
My timing is slightly advanced from stock and that is something I'd like to play around with more.
How serious are you about pulling that tractor? And what do your rules allow?
A 782D is a valuable collectible tractor and shouldn't be cut up to build a puller. Hydros
aren't well suited to pulling so if you are serious you would swap in a gear drive rearend.
If you wanted to ever pull NQS or at Columbus the cubic inch limit is 75. Your D-600 engine is only 37 cubes so that is a serious disadvantage.
So if you are serious you would start from the ground up with a gear drive 82 series chassis and put a D-1105 Kubota or a 3TNE78 Yanmar which are much closer to the maximum cubes. You can send the pump and injectors to Columbus diesel and have them reworked for around $1000. You would also want to have the cam reground to take advantage of the turbo.
Now, if you just want to play or put on a show at your local pulls you could take your 782D and add a turbo from a Smart car and back the fuel screw all the way out. Be sure to add a pyromter so you can keep an eye on your EGTs so you don't melt it down. The hydro will still limit you though.
Here is a clip of my 882 (same tractor as your 782D) with a Smart turbo and the fuel turned up;
http://www.youtube.com/user/farmallgray?feature=mhum#p/u/22/D7xyVhnp-FQ I still use this one to mow grass and plow with so I didn't get too wild with mods on it.
Compare that to a clip of the puller I built from the ground up;
http://www.youtube.com/user/farmallgray?feature=mhum#p/u/5/uZ2rwcf8Noo
There are two pretty nice diesel pullers on ebay right now that may be a better option for you.
Here is a forum dedicated to diesel garden tractor pulling;
http://sports.groups.yahoo.com/group/dieselgardentractorpulling/
Don T,
My timing is slightly advanced from stock and that is something I'd like to play around with more.
