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Archive through March 08, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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sure is quiet today...

Brian J.
Although that stuff will work in a pinch, it is not the same performance Hy-Tran will deliver... Hy-Tran deals with aeration and moisture way better...
 
Scott Tanner... 149 knucklebuster..
Did you bust this thing lol
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i just picked up another cub today, the tag on the rearend is missing, the plate on the engine has been rubbed down to bare metal the only thing i can make out is 2 numbers stamped into the tag A15068, 463100 or the last digit could be a D, can anyone tell me what size engine from those numbers, the grill and frame look just like my model 123, but this one is 3 speed
 
Hi Guys,

Past advice I’ve seen on this forum and others suggests that sandblasting cub transaxles is probably not a good idea. Just wondering what prep work others have done to get transaxles ready for priming and painting? Would a thorough cleaning with a wire brush (without removing old paint) be sufficient?
 
i measured the gas tank, its smaller then the one on my 123, so i guess its a 102, they have 6.5 quarts, 12 hp engines have an 8 quart tank, it looks to be the orinal tank on it so it must be a 10 hp
 
Steve S.-

When I restored a 100, I first applied paint stripper to the whole thing, scraped off as much paint as I could, and then wire wheeled the rest. I then removed all the covers and the shifter and the axle tubes and axles and cleaned all of those items separately with electrolysis.
 
I've taken out my K241 from my 100 to rebuild. Mission accomplished and I am fired up to put it back in when it seems to be too tight to fit back in. Is there a proper method for re-insertion? I said re-insertion! No really, does the drive shaft give to the rear?
All joking aside, it took me 3 Schaefers to figure that I should wait for another day and ask the experts. I'm thinking I need to disassemble the steering linkage from spindle to spindle?
 
Thanks for the info, Matt. We might try the paint stripper and wire wheel, but our past attempts at electrolysis failed mainly because our old battery charger wouldn't cooperate and eventually bit the dust. As good as it seems to have worked for you and others, we've avoided any additional electrolysis since then. I've decided to have our IH stamped bolts and some other hardware professionally cleaned and cadmium plated. I hope we don't forget anything important!
 
PETER S. - Another sure-fire way to confirm what size engine your new CC has is the shape of the oil pan. K241 (10 hp) will have a flat bottom oil pan because of the shorter stroke. K301 (12 hp) will have a dropped sump extending down below the bottom of the frame rails right behind the frt axle, say about 2 in. deeper, by 3 in. long and as wide as the space between the frame. The deeper sump is to give more room for the oil flinger on the connecting rod cap in the engine because of the 3/8 in. longer stroke. Both styles of pans hold the same 1-1/2 quarts of oil.

I hate to admit it but as long as the sheetmetal/cooling shrouds fit an engine I really don't worry about what the data tag says on my engines. I know what they are and if I ever sell one so will the buyer.
 
Nice sunny day here this am. I think I will take the 149 out for some trailer duty. We had strong winds and there are some limbs down that need to be picked up. I was thinking of take the diesel after I repaired the fuel line but I don`t have plugs for rear ports.I will get some today . my order from Charlie will take 2 weeks to get here and I could run the D if I had the plugs.Off to town for plugs 2 weeks is to long for me to Waite lol. Have a great day you all.
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I have searched the archives in vain for this answer. Does anyone have paint code numbers for powder paint for a Cub 128?
 
Scott Tanner, I'm sure not going to argue your expertise. The stuff I use from TSC says it's "equal" to IH HY-TRANS and dozens of others, so for it's availability I snatched it up. I'm sure the die-hards would disagree, but I equate this to using the MOTOCRAFT oil at $5/qt to Penzoil at $3/qt.
 
I thinks I hear a can-O-worms being opened...
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Brian, I am not an expert, I'm providing what limited knowledge I have so the reader can make their own decisions... I do know, however, that a parts book match does not neccesarily mean it'll work, such as a Fram filter that they spec for the hydro... not even close. It fits, but will render a hydro inoperative in the cold... I used the TSC fluid for years in mine after I blew the lift hydraulic tubes. Hydro still works fine...

BTW, I vacationed up by you last July at Savoy Mtn... very nice area... My Daughter worked a summer at a resort on the lake off of rt 7 back in 2007, her roommate is right on rt 7...

Dave K,
I don't know of any codes for powder paint... I have used the Eastwood colors, The Yellow they sell in dang close.... hardly can tell... Their cream color is a little whiter than cub white...
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The chute is powder, while the rest of the blower is Valspar IH White..
I don't have a pict of the yellow...
 
Scott Tanner... 149 knucklebuster..
(I thinks I hear a can-O-worms being opened...)
well it soon will be fishing season lol
 
Hopefully I can get an answer to my question ,I don`t know were everybody went.
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As we all know there are two HRV, why ? is there one for backing up and one for froward. And if so which is which ?
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Thanks guys
 
Dave Beck,

Hy-Tran is also sold by Cub Cadet, look for the red label transmission fluid. The other CC fluid is the wrong stuff.

Correct CC fluid


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The CC fluid is often very pricey. My local ACE HW / CC dealer sells it for $7.99 and 24.99 a gal.

I drive 25 miles (one way) to the Case /IH dealer and buy it by the gallon or more. Last time I was there I priced a 5 gal. drum for $59 (2.95 Qt)

Many other fluids claim to be “equal” to Hy-tran, but they are not “exact”. I have done some research on different fluids; the basic compounds and viscosity are the only basis for their (others) claims to be equal. Many compounds and additives are proprietary and are not given out by Case/IH (Viscosity Oil Co.).

My father and I have been using Hy-tran for over 40 years, and my Dad’s 127 and 123 have never had transmission problems, ever.

Jim
 
DONALD - HRV = Hydro relief valve correct? Yes, one's a forward valve and the other is reverse. But I can't tell you which one is which.
 
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