Man! There's one in every group!
-
This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.
Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades
Archive through March 08, 2005
- Thread starter digger
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
F
farmall gray
Guest
Dale R,
The average person could probably do it in an hour or so. It helps to have a screw starter,
and make sure you have a magnet handy to pick up the screws when you drop them. I will take some patience because the points cover sits at an odd angle and the heat shield for the exhaust manifold is in the way. You may need to remove the air cleaner base. Be careful not to drop the
screws down the carb. I wouldn't replace the coil
unless it quits working. I would definetly replace the condenser along with the points though.
The average person could probably do it in an hour or so. It helps to have a screw starter,
and make sure you have a magnet handy to pick up the screws when you drop them. I will take some patience because the points cover sits at an odd angle and the heat shield for the exhaust manifold is in the way. You may need to remove the air cleaner base. Be careful not to drop the
screws down the carb. I wouldn't replace the coil
unless it quits working. I would definetly replace the condenser along with the points though.
Bob R
I also saw your question's on a Farmall Cub forum where you also described the driveshaft on your tractor. From your description, you have the remains of a Cub Cadet known as an Original, because they were the first model and did not have a model number. If your says 100 on the hood, someone has added those decals. To answer your question's to this forum, and the other forum I saw them on, the Original had a 7 hp engine that had a MAX full load RPM of 3600. The drive pulley that the belt to the clutch goes on has 3-3/8" outside diameter.
I also saw your question's on a Farmall Cub forum where you also described the driveshaft on your tractor. From your description, you have the remains of a Cub Cadet known as an Original, because they were the first model and did not have a model number. If your says 100 on the hood, someone has added those decals. To answer your question's to this forum, and the other forum I saw them on, the Original had a 7 hp engine that had a MAX full load RPM of 3600. The drive pulley that the belt to the clutch goes on has 3-3/8" outside diameter.
Ya know, I guess he could have a 100 that might have had this setup on it at one time too.
B
brohde
Guest
Thanks guys I assumed it was a 100. There is no sheet metal left. It was just a frame,transaxle and the little drive shaft with a clutched pulley.I dont understand how this thread works cant find my original post or any where to click on just that thread?
Bob
Click the Archive through March 04, 2005 above and you will see your original post.
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,826
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Mag 18 is assembled as far as I can go without pulling the KT-17II out of my 782 (Thursday evening and Saturday's job).
Assembling the engine wasn't too bad, especially after I had an idea for applying very small amounts of RTV sealant........I used one of the plunger style (syringe) children's medicine dispensers...popped the plunger out, squirted some RTV in to fill the tube, replaced the plunger, and proceeded to lay down perfect little beads of RTV!!!!!
I need to clean up some sheet metal, swap over the carb/intake assembly from the KT and then give it a nice coat of engine black before reinstalling it in the 782. I need to rebuild the steering box and tighten the front end on the 782 anyway....at least I'll have something to do while the paint dries
.
Assembling the engine wasn't too bad, especially after I had an idea for applying very small amounts of RTV sealant........I used one of the plunger style (syringe) children's medicine dispensers...popped the plunger out, squirted some RTV in to fill the tube, replaced the plunger, and proceeded to lay down perfect little beads of RTV!!!!!
I need to clean up some sheet metal, swap over the carb/intake assembly from the KT and then give it a nice coat of engine black before reinstalling it in the 782. I need to rebuild the steering box and tighten the front end on the 782 anyway....at least I'll have something to do while the paint dries
Steve-
Was there a spring under the float on that carb? I know from looking at service bulletins on green tractors, some of the engines with fuel pumps came with a spring under the float (item 7), the service bulletin says to remove the spring.
Was there a spring under the float on that carb? I know from looking at service bulletins on green tractors, some of the engines with fuel pumps came with a spring under the float (item 7), the service bulletin says to remove the spring.
B
brohde
Guest
Hi Guys just found the other replies from last night.It is diffinitly a original(1963). I did not know there was a differnce between it and the 70-100!I cant use a stock engine pulley because Im using a small 4cyl water cooled kohler. Did they all use the same transaxle? Thanks Bob
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,826
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Wyatt,
Don't know...haven't pulled the carb on the KT yet (as I still need the tractor to run to move it into the garage for surgery).....I'll check when I do the swap (If I rebuild the carb, it runs fine as-is, so it might not be necessary - I'll probably just swap the whole intake assembly and save a bunch of unnecessary work).
(Message edited by sblunier on March 09, 2005)
Don't know...haven't pulled the carb on the KT yet (as I still need the tractor to run to move it into the garage for surgery).....I'll check when I do the swap (If I rebuild the carb, it runs fine as-is, so it might not be necessary - I'll probably just swap the whole intake assembly and save a bunch of unnecessary work).
(Message edited by sblunier on March 09, 2005)
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,826
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Thanks Kurt, nice to know!!!!!
BTW, There wasn't anything wrong with the KT-17 that a set of rings wouldn't have fixed, but when you get your hands on a Mag 18 with filter, etc. for cheap....why not upgrade!!!!!!
Love the tractor!!!!
BTW, There wasn't anything wrong with the KT-17 that a set of rings wouldn't have fixed, but when you get your hands on a Mag 18 with filter, etc. for cheap....why not upgrade!!!!!!
Love the tractor!!!!
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,826
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Jim,
Permatex Ultra Gray.....supposed to be designed for high clamping loads associated with new cars with lots of AL die-cast parts.......figured that fit the bill for a Kohler perfectly.
Permatex Ultra Gray.....supposed to be designed for high clamping loads associated with new cars with lots of AL die-cast parts.......figured that fit the bill for a Kohler perfectly.
mhendrickson
New member
- Joined
- Mar 6, 2005
- Messages
- 1
- displayname
- Mark Hendrickson
Is there a starter/bracket that can use the flywheel to start the engine on a 104 cub 10hp. I'm building a puller for my son and don't want the starter/gen if I can do with out
Thanks Mark H.
Thanks Mark H.
Bryan,
This guy flew by us doin at least 85 the other day, took me 3 miles and 105 to catch his butt!
This guy flew by us doin at least 85 the other day, took me 3 miles and 105 to catch his butt!
