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Archive through March 07, 2011

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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bjohnson

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Joined
Oct 18, 2007
Messages
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Brian Johnson
JB Evans, did you shear a pin on your rockshaft? Take the tunnel cover off and watch all the components stroke and you can find your problem.
 
I will need to check Brian. Do you happen to have a picture of what exactly to look at?
 
Charlie, Thanks for the quick response on my PTO question. When I took it apart the presure spring is bent in about 3/16. Should I straighten it,leave as is,or is it junk? The rebuilt PTO was only used a few times before I changed it(again)because it was slipping unless I really babied it.Stole the PTO with double spring off my 149 and I'm ready for snow after 6 plus feet already
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I'll have to find some round tuits before next winter.....
 
JB,
What Brian said...

There is also a pin on the outside of the frame at the lift arm... Check to see if the blade subframe is still attached to the tractor...
 
Jim C.
It might help if you could take a pic of what your using. Are you saying the rebuilt PTO had one spring and you changed it to 2?
If your using the s spring setup, you can turn them upside down and they might hold. If your using the one spring, you can't flip that one.
They are spring steel and don't like getting hot ya know.
 
Thanks Scott. I looked over lunch and it seems all of the pins are intact. Even the one on the outside. I will look at the subframe again but I am pretty sure it is attached. I will mess around with it this evening if I have time. Thanks!
 
JB, make sure that the CAM stop is not set to limit the lift... That would be the black knob on the right side near the lift rock shaft. There is a CAM behind the knob that can be set to limit the lift travel...
 
Thanks Kraig. I checked that as well and doesn't seem to be the problem. Here is a pic I took with my phon over lunch. Is the piece attached to the rockshaft supposed to be locked so it doesn't bend?

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JB, that would only be locked if you wanted downforce. With the tunnel cover off being careful to keep all body parts out of the inner workings of the Cub, run the lift through it's range and observe these two parts and make sure that they move in unison. If one moves with out the other you have a sheared Spirol pin.

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Sorry for the confusion,I'll start at the begining....

In 1981 I bought a 127 with a 42" mower and QA42A thrower, at the time I didn't know about the fever.All was good for 15-20 years and I had to replace the front tires,couple years later the belt for the thrower broke(I may have been a little hard on it),then the coil goes south.Last summer the mower drive belt let go and the deck belt looks like it doesn't have many years left.Last fall I go to put the thrower on and notice the imput shaft has a LOT of wobble so went to"plan B" and used thrower that came with 125(see fever above).Snow comes and thrower works good on dry/light snow but hardly clears the housing with wet/heavey snow.Kind of embarassing to be seen dribbling on yourself at the end of your driveway.Thinking maybe the 40 year old PTO on the 127 might be a little worn I replaced it with the rebuilt one from my 124(fever).Still slipping
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.Running out of ideas and a chance of wet/heavey spring snow I took the PTO with 2 pressure springs off my 149(fever)and tried it,LIFE IS GOOD.Now I need to fix 124 PTO,rebuild 127 PTO,and put back 149 PTO.
.....do you understand what my question was now
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Jim C., one thing to remember is that once you get the PTO itself properly rebuilt and adjusted, the engagement lever on the tractor also has adjustments that effect it's performance. When I put my Killer Kohler into my #2 125 chassis I don't think I got the engagement lever properly adjusted and the PTO was slipping. However I didn't figure that out until two PTOs later. The brand new triangle spring broke on the first PTO so I swapped out the PTO for a second PTO I had. That one worked fine on the mower deck all summer. Then come winter and heavy snow that one started slipping. I then put in a double triangle spring PTO from a 149 and that's when I figured out the engagement lever. Granted two things were at play here, PTOs designed for 12hp not the approx. 17hp of the Killer Kohler and the improperly adjusted engagement lever. Hope that made sense...
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OK, short version; make sure the engagement lever is properly adjusted.
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Art/Don-

Unfortunately I don't know the size of those bolts...the one rearend I was swapping parts in, I used the CCC pinion shaft and ring gear because the ring gear in the CI rear I used as a donor was trashed.
 
Quick question: Does anyone have a picture or diagram of the pulley and hardware configuration for the mule drive on the wideframes? I know my 1650 is incorrect, but as I look at my 1450, im not sure it is correct either. Facing the front of the tractor, does the left pully go on the outside or inside of the bracket. In what order do the nuts, washers, and release lever go? Thanks!
Chad
 
Kraig- I think my problem started with the fact the PTO was 40+ years old. I've owned the 127 30+ years. Used the mower every year,the thrower all but a couple. I guess sometimes things wear out,just strange the thrower and PTO went the same time. The thing that confused me was the rebuilt 124 PTO did the same thing. The only other thing that changed was I went from a 2 paddle thrower to a 4 paddle. I almost changed the augers thinking maybe the 4 put more load it. Glad I tried the 3'rd PTO.I have a new kit for the 127 and I'll try scuffing clutch/presure plate on 124 PTO so I can put everything back together.
 
Art A

Had a struggle with the information I said I could find on your ring gear bolts. So the answer is 3/4" to 1" long as I stated . (I don't remember how long they were. I looked at some photos I took and they were just long enough
to get a nut on. So they were either 3/4 or 1" long. It wouldn't hurt to be a little long if you put the nuts to the outside. Easy enough to figure out. When you get the rivets punched out measure one then add enough extra for a nut ). Just so I did not steer you wrong I ask elsewhere and got this answer. Hope this helps. Later Don T
 
Don-
Thanks for the thoughts. I was going to make a hardware store run yesterday before I pulled the ring gear apart, but since there doesn't seem to be a definative answer I'll just do like you said. (Pull it apart, measure the rivets and go from there).

Thanks!
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