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Archive through March 04, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Doug H.-WELCOME!
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Now,the main reason you have that new battery is because of the regulator,or it has something to do with it. It must be hooked up and functioning to make sure that the battery is getting charged enough but not too much. If your starter/generator is told to go "full speed ahead" and does so unbridled, serious consequences can occur. So,someone around here will certainly post a wiring diagram for you while you wait for the FM(that is short for "f*cking manual",you will see some posts containing RTFM,which means "read the f*cking manual",however you can't do that since it isn't there yet.) The 129 is a favorite of many. It will be a good tractor but expect to spend a little money and alot of time with it(or is it the other way around?)
 
Doug H. -

As Kevin said...

Ooops - didn't realize it wasn't resized yet!
 
Hi Guys, that's my spoiler!
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Well, about a hundred miles driving this afternoon to look at a cc100 and I didn't come home with it! Kind of interesting, but I don't need that big a project right now and they wanted about 3 times what I've paid for my other cubs.
Now at about 1/4 the price, I might be interested!
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did someone mention a plow day in PA. this spring ? if so when and where?
thanks
 
Dang, this just ain't my day!

OK, let's try the wiring diagram THIS way...

<center><table border=1><tr><td>
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Wide Frame Wiring Diagrams.pdf (118.1 k)</td></tr></table></center>
 
Kevin and Bryan, Thanks for the info. I think all the rest can wait for the FM to come(hopfully first of the week). I am definitally planning on some cc time in the garage. The tractor was under 30" of the white stuff the day I picked it up, and the -20 temp. just killed the original battery. Other than that, it is in good shape. That is, other than the blade that is rigged up, bat that is another story. Thanks again.
 
Douglas H.: Welcome to the forum. I am right down the road from you in Oakmont, PA. Good luck with the 129. You going to get to PD III PA?
 
John, that 100 wasn't in Floyd was it? If so, it's one of the guys that stole my stuff :-(

Dan, please keep that stuff to email. I'm slow, but I get it answered :)
 
Where do we go to register for the Plow Day on the 24th of April in MN?
 
Made good progress on the 4X4 today. Engine is in, front hydro bolted up, front driveshaft made, and power steering valve mounted. Hope to get the hydraulics done next week. Sorry, the pics suck.
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I need a little feedback too. I was kinda going toward the 7488 look and was planning on painting the tractor red, but have been thinking of painting it yellow. Any input????
 
Travis-
When prompted, my 5-year-old-daughter will tell you that daddy's favorite color is yellow (and white) but you almost have to paint that thing red. It looks great! How are you doing the steering?

Kevin said....... Well, nevermind......
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Ooops... screwed that up... try again..

Hydraulic steering column, continued;

When last visited, I'd completed the outer segment of a hydraulic steering column for my 1000-framed project I refer to as "loader Mutt". Tonight's task was to make the steering shaft- one which would recieve a standard Cub Cadet steering wheel on top, but mate to the Char-Lynn hydraulic steering valve on the bottom.

I started by digging out the steering-shaft that came from the steering column i'd liberated with the steering valve... hence, I was sure that the end of the shaft would fit the valve properly. The shaft, like the column, had been bent in two places, so obviously I wasn't re-using SOME of it... furthermore, this shaft wouldn't accept a C-C steering wheel... and I wanted my Mutt to look more-or-less stock from the outside. So I sawed off the last 6" of steering shaft, and chucked it in the lathe, and sliced the weld that held the coupler into the shaft tubing
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Came apart nicely, and since the other end (the steering wheel side) was still good, I cut that one out too... for some future use... I don't have use for it right now, but I'm sure somebody, someday, will want to make a steering shaft that'll accept an industrial or automotive-type steering wheel.
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After searching around, I found someone willing to accept my perfectly-good steering box (with a PERFECT worm gear) in trade for a ratty old one with a nasty worm-gear. Strange trade? perhaps, but I'd rather not butcher a perfectly good piece. So I cleaned up the donor shaft, and lopped off the worn-out worm with chop-saw, then used the lathe to remove it's weldment, releasing the worm's original core.
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Then cut an unbent segment out of the original industrial steering tube, then turned down the CC steering shaft OD slightly to accept the tube as an interferance-fit sleeve. The original valve-end coupler already fit the tubing properly, so that was an easy task.
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After getting the length just-right, I welded the sleeve in place, then spent some quality time cleaning up the welds (I was not welding very good tonight... mebbie it's the weather?)
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And this is the result... Looks totally stock from the topside!
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And now, the only thing left is mounting steering cylinders and hooking up plumbing!

As I noted to another Cubber... I've got steering-shaft ends for both this industrial wheel size, and a standard GM size. If a guy wanted to fit an automotive wheel to his cub, it'd simply be a matter of attaching one of these ends to a stock CUB steering shaft...
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I've been told that some of the red x82 series tractors were equipped with independant right-left brakes....

Anybody have one of those, that would be willing to snap some pictures of the linkage arrangement for me?
 
Could anybody give me some dimensions for the clevis that screws on the end of the narrow frame hyd lift cylinder. I need that piece and I'm told they're NLA.
 
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