Archive through March 01, 2004

[dberger]

I almost forgot. As for that quote from a former Deer employee maybe that's why they were never as good as our beloved CUBS!!

 

[jbliler]

On the broken shift fork. They CAN be reworked. After removal, clamp the cracked part that went around thte slide rod around a spare half inch bolt(same size as shift rod). Weld up crack and beef up while there. Seems to work fine. Have a few hundred shifts on a rebuilt shift fork.
With a notch ground into that spare bolt you can use the bolt that clamps the fork to hold it all in place while you weld it. Just watch out and try to not weld the shift fork to the bolt, easy to do!
I have been told that the shift rod that holds the fork will slide BACK into the rearend section and splitting the tractor can be avoided??? Will try it next time as it can all be done through the shifter cover then. Sure worth a try!!!!!!!!

 

[wcompton]

Dennis-
I didn't realize my previous emoployment disqualified my statements. Perhaps I should finally buy a Deere tractor versus the 20+ Cub Cadets I've owned?

(Message edited by wcompton on March 02, 2004)

 

[aaytay]

I can understand the issues that MTD has with the general public getting their hands on the partsmart CDs because they contain dealer pricing as well as "retail" pricing. But I can't for the life of me understand why MTD doesn't put out their parts lists on CD or setup a website like Deere does. Even if they sold the CDs, I'd think they'd sell like hotcakes.

Maybe it's to keep that guy on ebay in business...
;-)

Dennis-
Welcome!

 

[rmull]

Looking good Travis! Still looking to power it with a gas motor?

Dennis- Welcome, but was that really necessary?

 

[jrichardson]

Ok, I have been proven wrong... My heads are aluminum... They felt heavier to me compared to some of the other heads I have had... Thanks for the learning experience...

Thanks Jerry about the repair idea. I have a set right now that are broke, I will try to get them repaired.

I know you guys are very knowledgeable. I don't like the idea of torqueing a head while hot... Not saying that that is a bad idea. Just the way I do business.

 

[jmelicharek]

General question on gear transmissions - wondering if you can clean the gear transmission such as on my 100 in the same manner you can clean tranmissions on Ford N series.

Process there is to fill up trans with a few gallons of clean diesel, run back and forth a short bit, drain, redo the process, and let air dry for at least overnight.

Wondering if any possible seals would be ruined by doing this? Worthwhile? Or just looking for trouble if I do this?

Thanks, Jim

 

[thoffman]

Jim "M",
I can't see a problem with that. If it was good enough for Henry................

Finally found a good use for metric bolts. I'm sure you all at one time or another had a Cub Cadet with a egged out clutch lever and bracket. The hole/pin sould be 3/8", but making the repair with a 1/2" hole/pin is a P.I.T.A. trying to drill out the lever because of the hardened steel. Use a "Dremmel" type tool to round the hole and use a 10mm long shank bolt (cut the threads off and round the hex) to drop in. Takes out most all the play.

(Message edited by thoffman on March 02, 2004)

 

[tschweizer]

Ryan, I got the front axle as far foward as I can, and the engine will still hang over quite a bit. I don't want the weight of a diesel adding to it. I'm also going to have a lot of hydraulics under the dash to deal with.

Besides, I already got the baddest diesel around

 

[tschweizer]

BTW, looking through the Plow Day pics, what is Kevin digging for??????

 

[dberger]

Wyatt I apolagize I didn't mean anything towards you personely only a stab at a Deere! Again I am sorry!! Dennis

 

[lbuttke]

Good morning everyone, I have a couple of question to ask.

#1. If I put 30 psi Helium in each rear tire on my 102 and 10 psi Helium in both front tires, will this help me get across my yard ( mud hole ) this spring?

#2. Will the 30 psi Helium negate my 50lbs of wheel weight per rear wheel come plowing time?

 

[dkamp]

Travis wrote;
"Besides, I already got the baddest diesel around "

...but not for long! :-}

 

[dkamp]

Question;

Four bolts hold the K301 down to the cradle. Three of 'em are 1" long. One is 1.25" long. Which hole does the long one go in?

 

[dkamp]

U-joint driveline modifications, Continued: Making U-joint fixing pins

Factor drivelines use roll-pins for retaining rag-joint yokes. For my U-joint conversion, I use allen-head bolts, turned down to 0.250". This allows disengagement and removal of the driveshaft and U-joints without having to hold a drift-pin and swing a hammer around hydraulic lines and a plastic fan. This concept, with the U-joint arrangement's ability to let the driveshaft 'collapse' into the U-joint, thus disengaging the 'anti-launch' pin from the rag-joint, making removal of the U-joint MUCH easier, and MUCH quicker than the factory arrangement. If you're running a drive-belt off the small accessory pulley, you'll find it quick-and-easy to change the belt. Here's how I make the pin;

Take a stainless-steel Allen-head bolt (about 2" long), thread a nut down to the head. Chuck the HEAD of the bolt in the lathe... or if you don't have a lathe, use a drill press.

Cut off all the exposed threads... and turn it down to 0.250". I use a curved-point 'finishing' tool in the lathe- they do a nice job without yanking the workpiece out... mind you, my lathe is geriatric, so I have to do some pretty unprofessional things to get decent results. An alternative to a lathe-tool, one could use a file, or a grinder... whatever you've got will probably work with enough patience. When you're done, it looks like this

But you'll see that when installed,

there's a little interferance between the bottom edge of the Allen head and the yoke arm. In this case, I...

chuck the freshly-turned end of the bolt into the drill-press, and chamfer the underside of the bolt with a file, and brighten it up with a sanding disk in one of my 4.5" disk-grinders...

and while I'm at it, I wipe off the casting mark along the yoke's edge, as it fouls the bolt a little, too... and the end result looks like:

 

[kweimann]

My turn on torquing head bolts/nuts:
I have always used lubrication on threaded fasteners. Each manufacturer does tests and will provide the correct torque you need on THEIR fastener with the lube or no lube that they specify. ARP fasteners recommends a specific torque with 30 wt and a totally different torque when you use their assembly lube. I was always concerned about galling threads if they were dry on dry. Torques are also different in different materials, ie, cast iron vs. aluminum. My recommendation, check with the oem manufacturer or read the service manual. Kenny

 

[dcasey]

Good Mornin' all--

Can someone help me out with some information on the Cat 0 3pt. hitches(model #'s 383,388,389) for (models 982, 682, 782 & 1811, respectively)? I think model 388 for the 682 came with a helper spring?

I would like to find a drawing w/ general dimensions on it. Or if someone has a good clear page out of the manual for these hitches, I'd appreciate it...

For what it's worth, Sorry for all the commotion I stirred up about the PartSmart CD! I would still like to ge my hands on one, though!

 

[kdunham]

Travis-I was looking for a quarter to give to Updike so he could call someone who cares.

What motor is going in the 4X4?

 

[kupdike]

Dunham.......I use a calling card.

Partsmart CD....The statements made so far here are true. If we (a dealer) get caught selling, copying, ect. this, we are dropped!!! CC has hinted at offering a consumer friendly version, but nothing has materialized yet.......

 

[thoffman]

Travis,
Looks like Kevin's diggin' for <font size="-2">(lug)</font> nuts.