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Archive through June 27, 2010
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tbordeleau
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- ted Bordeleau
Just bought a nice 1650, but the mule drive and hanger assembly for the deck were un-attached and appeared to be abused (bent?). The deck is is very good shape, so I decided to just look for a good, straight, mule drive and hanger.
HOWEVER, I noticed that the (2) arms on the tractor that "lift" the deck, and are attached to the shaft that is activated by the hydraulic ram, are NOT parallel. That is, each arm is "clocked" on the shaft it rotates on with respect to each other by a few degrees. T}he arms each have an end pin that pins into the deck apparatus (I think). These pins are NOT on the same centerline, which to me means they cannot lift the deck evenly.
Is there some adjustment on the deck that compensates for this? Are the arms supposed to be non-parallel? How can I correct this condition?
HOWEVER, I noticed that the (2) arms on the tractor that "lift" the deck, and are attached to the shaft that is activated by the hydraulic ram, are NOT parallel. That is, each arm is "clocked" on the shaft it rotates on with respect to each other by a few degrees. T}he arms each have an end pin that pins into the deck apparatus (I think). These pins are NOT on the same centerline, which to me means they cannot lift the deck evenly.
Is there some adjustment on the deck that compensates for this? Are the arms supposed to be non-parallel? How can I correct this condition?
I'm installing an M18 engine in my 682 and have a question. I got an invaluable schematic from Steve Blunier but don't understand the function of the "oil sentry" that's featured on this engine. It has a sending unit in the block but what does it connect to? Will this alone shut off the engine in case of low oil pressure or does this just feed an indicator light? Also, the part # for the light is 725-3134 which doesn't seem to be available anywhere.
Any help is appreciated,
Thanks
Norm
Any help is appreciated,
Thanks
Norm
jhillegass
Well-known member
Ted,
Those two arms should be "clocked at the same time", meaning that the attachment pins that lift the deck hanger should be lined up at the same place. They need to be that way to eavenly lift both sides of the deck hanger, ie. hold the deck level at all times.
I wonder that maybe one of the arms may have a sheared or partialy sheared spring pin.
It could be either pin, you'll just have to check.
I doubt the arm has bent.
Those two arms should be "clocked at the same time", meaning that the attachment pins that lift the deck hanger should be lined up at the same place. They need to be that way to eavenly lift both sides of the deck hanger, ie. hold the deck level at all times.
I wonder that maybe one of the arms may have a sheared or partialy sheared spring pin.
It could be either pin, you'll just have to check.
I doubt the arm has bent.
jhillegass
Well-known member
Ted,
Here's a rock shaft and lift arms from a 129 that doesn't have the hydraulic lift parts on it.
Here's a rock shaft and lift arms from a 129 that doesn't have the hydraulic lift parts on it.
Jerry H.
I think you have one of my wire nuts on your tractor!
BTW, Great looking machine!
I think you have one of my wire nuts on your tractor!
BTW, Great looking machine!
jhillegass
Well-known member
Digger,
So you put that on there.......
So you put that on there.......
Roy N.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Norm-
I think that just feeds an idiot light. Any 12V red light you'd like to install will work. I bought a red LED light of similar size at a hardware store, and it's much brighter than the OEM light.
I think that just feeds an idiot light. Any 12V red light you'd like to install will work. I bought a red LED light of similar size at a hardware store, and it's much brighter than the OEM light.
tbordeleau
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- ted Bordeleau
Jerry:
Thanks for the clear, quick response and photo. Yep, those are the 2 arms on my 1650, and thanks for confirming my assumption that they should be parallel/pins-on-center.
Hard to believe they are that far out of whack without one or both having sheared or partially sheared pins. I would imagine it's a real _itch getting that shaft out to install new shear pins?
Thanks for the clear, quick response and photo. Yep, those are the 2 arms on my 1650, and thanks for confirming my assumption that they should be parallel/pins-on-center.
Hard to believe they are that far out of whack without one or both having sheared or partially sheared pins. I would imagine it's a real _itch getting that shaft out to install new shear pins?
Well if I must buy a new tractor, I must buy a new tractor...but my trusty 108 will have to go if I do. No room for both.
So what should I check/watch out for in a hydro model? If I'm going to go up in hp I might as well go to a 14 horse, I think. Opinions on 147 vs 149 vs 1450 for my purposes (tilling-plowing-mowing)? I'm cheap and not the most mechanically skilled...
So what should I check/watch out for in a hydro model? If I'm going to go up in hp I might as well go to a 14 horse, I think. Opinions on 147 vs 149 vs 1450 for my purposes (tilling-plowing-mowing)? I'm cheap and not the most mechanically skilled...
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Wayne-
147 is harder to work on than the 149 and 1450. Both the 149 and 147 suffer from the same wear issues with the pin at the front of the driveshaft where it connects to the engine. The 1450 does not have that problem. 1450 has iso-mounts, which I can almost guarantee you'll have to replace to the tune of $100, and perhaps the oil pan if it went too long with bad mounts. 147 and 149 have the hydro control for the left hand, 1450 is for the right. 1450 has a bendix drive starter and an alternator, which I feel makes for better cold-weather starting in my experience. 147 (and the rest of the tractors in that series) have issues with wiring harness deterioration.
In summary, I'd be looking for a 1450. If the engine mounts are done right, they are smooth and quieter than earlier models. I prefer the hydro control in my right hand and steering with my left, but that's just me. I've had a 107 and a 127, and both were a pain to work on. A 149 would probably be my second choice.
<FONT SIZE="-2">IMO, FWIW, YMMV, My $0.02, Yada, Yada, Yada...</FONT>
147 is harder to work on than the 149 and 1450. Both the 149 and 147 suffer from the same wear issues with the pin at the front of the driveshaft where it connects to the engine. The 1450 does not have that problem. 1450 has iso-mounts, which I can almost guarantee you'll have to replace to the tune of $100, and perhaps the oil pan if it went too long with bad mounts. 147 and 149 have the hydro control for the left hand, 1450 is for the right. 1450 has a bendix drive starter and an alternator, which I feel makes for better cold-weather starting in my experience. 147 (and the rest of the tractors in that series) have issues with wiring harness deterioration.
In summary, I'd be looking for a 1450. If the engine mounts are done right, they are smooth and quieter than earlier models. I prefer the hydro control in my right hand and steering with my left, but that's just me. I've had a 107 and a 127, and both were a pain to work on. A 149 would probably be my second choice.
<FONT SIZE="-2">IMO, FWIW, YMMV, My $0.02, Yada, Yada, Yada...</FONT>
jbaker
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Wayne I can not comment on the 147 as I never had a NF, I do have a 149 and a QL1200 both that I have tilled and cut grass with. If I was looking I would go with a 149 due to theres more room and easier to work on verse the 1450QL, such as engine iso mounts and the extra shrouding on the QL series.
other differences between 149 vs 1450 are manual pto vs electric pto, sometimes 3/4 vs 1 inch front spindles, and loud vs not as loud
other differences between 149 vs 1450 are manual pto vs electric pto, sometimes 3/4 vs 1 inch front spindles, and loud vs not as loud
Jeff,
Is the sound difference really noticeable between the 149 and Quiet Line? I don't have a Quiet Line, but someday would like to get a 1450 to fill in the 'blank' between my 149 and 782.
Beside the Iso-mounts that Matt wrote about, I understood the QL needs a muffler brace that Dave Kirk offers.
I was a bit disappointed that Ken didn't email me to offer one of his nifty tools. Then again, I'm married and quite familiar with disappointment. Sigh....
Is the sound difference really noticeable between the 149 and Quiet Line? I don't have a Quiet Line, but someday would like to get a 1450 to fill in the 'blank' between my 149 and 782.
Beside the Iso-mounts that Matt wrote about, I understood the QL needs a muffler brace that Dave Kirk offers.
I was a bit disappointed that Ken didn't email me to offer one of his nifty tools. Then again, I'm married and quite familiar with disappointment. Sigh....
jbaker
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Roy I would say yes you notice a big difference but that only applies if the tractor has ALL its shrouding in place and the ISO mounts are in good shape.
besides dont they say loud pipes saves lives
I also do not like not seeing the engine when all the shrouding is in place on the QL series.
I have decided to stick with the 1x8,9 series as they all interchange if I have to rob a part in an emergency
besides dont they say loud pipes saves lives
I also do not like not seeing the engine when all the shrouding is in place on the QL series.
I have decided to stick with the 1x8,9 series as they all interchange if I have to rob a part in an emergency
jhillegass
Well-known member
Wayne,
Matt and Jeff pretty much hit the main points on differences.
If you have a tiller, mower and a front blade (you said plow...I'm guessing for snow plowing), those attachmets with frames and belts will fit ideally to a 149, probably a 1450, but not so well on a 147.
You have a wide frame 108 and a 149 would be nearly the same to work on (same operator's and service manual).
I like the hydro speed control on the left while I steer right handed and control the hydraulic lift with the right while tilling. I like the manual PTO--it's much less expensive to maintain.
Not sayin' the 147 would be wrong-its very popular--but I'd say stick with a wide frame 149.
My 2-cents........
Matt and Jeff pretty much hit the main points on differences.
If you have a tiller, mower and a front blade (you said plow...I'm guessing for snow plowing), those attachmets with frames and belts will fit ideally to a 149, probably a 1450, but not so well on a 147.
You have a wide frame 108 and a 149 would be nearly the same to work on (same operator's and service manual).
I like the hydro speed control on the left while I steer right handed and control the hydraulic lift with the right while tilling. I like the manual PTO--it's much less expensive to maintain.
Not sayin' the 147 would be wrong-its very popular--but I'd say stick with a wide frame 149.
My 2-cents........
jbaker
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To add to what Jerry said about less $$$ to maintain its also much easier and faster. I am right now replacing pto buttons on my manaul pto for about $35 thru the sponsers above. With only an hour or two in labor.
