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Archive through June 23, 2010
- Thread starter kweaver
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2006
- Messages
- 2,912
- displayname
- Allen Schumacher
Ken, I just reread your origional post about where the twin is now. Is that the same unit that years ago, you put a 1/2" drill motor and extension cord to get it moving around ?
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Kevin-
Rockford, Freeport, Poplar Grove, and Cottonwood. Thanks to college, I haven't had the money/time to flyr in a couple of years. I hope to pick that back up again after I graduate and get a job.
Back on topic, now that the gasket set for my K321 has arrived, I'm closer to putting my loader on an IH 682....
Rockford, Freeport, Poplar Grove, and Cottonwood. Thanks to college, I haven't had the money/time to flyr in a couple of years. I hope to pick that back up again after I graduate and get a job.
Back on topic, now that the gasket set for my K321 has arrived, I'm closer to putting my loader on an IH 682....
kfinnestad
Member
- Joined
- Jun 22, 2010
- Messages
- 11
- displayname
- kevin finnestad
Thanks to everyone and their suggestions!
It turned out to be a linkage issue. The pedal wasn't engaging the collar until late in the throw. a simple adjustment and bada bing!
Of course this didn't happen before I annoyed the neighbors with 20 minutes of high idle and amused them with rocking the tractor back and forth for no apparent reason.
And it only took one adult beverage.
Thanks again everyone.
It turned out to be a linkage issue. The pedal wasn't engaging the collar until late in the throw. a simple adjustment and bada bing!
Of course this didn't happen before I annoyed the neighbors with 20 minutes of high idle and amused them with rocking the tractor back and forth for no apparent reason.
And it only took one adult beverage.
Thanks again everyone.
kide
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2006
- Messages
- 3,779
- displayname
- Gerry Ide
Hey! This guy's a keeper - not only can he read and follow suggestions, but he can actually solve problems!!! Way to go, Kevin, stick around, we'll get you in trouble some other way....
BTW - nice work on your home page. (your profile link needs another "W", though)
BTW - nice work on your home page. (your profile link needs another "W", though)
kphill
Well-known member
Kevin F. Glad you got it fixed without having to tear anything apart. I sent a link to your e-mail to some service manuals online..
dgallagher
Well-known member
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- Feb 12, 2000
- Messages
- 179
- displayname
- David Gallagher
Is there any way to get the clutch assembly out of a 128 without taking the engine mounting bolts out? Thanks
kide
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2006
- Messages
- 3,779
- displayname
- Gerry Ide
David:
The manual shows removing the roll pin in the rear coupler. Nothing about moving the engine..
As was mentioned earlier today, you can get a service manual from one of our sponsors, or if you want to print one yourself (or just read it on your computer) you can find one here: www.ccmanuals.info/pdf/
The manual shows removing the roll pin in the rear coupler. Nothing about moving the engine..
As was mentioned earlier today, you can get a service manual from one of our sponsors, or if you want to print one yourself (or just read it on your computer) you can find one here: www.ccmanuals.info/pdf/
mgonitzke
Well-known member
David G.-
Just take the engine out, and then you'll have all kinds of room to remove the clutch.
Just take the engine out, and then you'll have all kinds of room to remove the clutch.
Tom H.
From what I hear, there's several NOT going because of the way things are set up. Especially for vendors.
But not to worry, things will be VERY different from now on at future RPRU's after this fiasco is over.
From what I hear, there's several NOT going because of the way things are set up. Especially for vendors.
But not to worry, things will be VERY different from now on at future RPRU's after this fiasco is over.
hydroharry
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- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,377
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Hey there Lucas - where are ya? That was right kindly of you to post that thank you.
KenTUCK - I may have been noticeably absent but I was lurking in the background studying some posts. I'm hoping I ain't gonna say something that makes your BRAIN HURT again but here goes -
Couple days ago there were some posts about shifter forks. Then there was this post about using a Cub head on a green thing. Well wouldn't ya know it - this got me thinking - Us Hydro Guys (HGs) only ever use knives and spoons (forks don't fit in slush boxes) but I was remembering a special experiment back in the day, where a real Professor was using a GREEEN THING and did some kind of surgery on it. I'm thinking he may have been putting some forks in it but don't know for sure. I did happen to be there trying to watch but every time I looked there was this light (I think from above) and it blinded me. Now - you got any recollection of this????? Here's a couple pics where you can see that GREEEN THING. Unless my eyes are deceiving me I think there's even a Cub filter on it.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (even when their trying to adapt GREEEN THINGS to'm)
KenTUCK - I may have been noticeably absent but I was lurking in the background studying some posts. I'm hoping I ain't gonna say something that makes your BRAIN HURT again but here goes -
Couple days ago there were some posts about shifter forks. Then there was this post about using a Cub head on a green thing. Well wouldn't ya know it - this got me thinking - Us Hydro Guys (HGs) only ever use knives and spoons (forks don't fit in slush boxes) but I was remembering a special experiment back in the day, where a real Professor was using a GREEEN THING and did some kind of surgery on it. I'm thinking he may have been putting some forks in it but don't know for sure. I did happen to be there trying to watch but every time I looked there was this light (I think from above) and it blinded me. Now - you got any recollection of this????? Here's a couple pics where you can see that GREEEN THING. Unless my eyes are deceiving me I think there's even a Cub filter on it.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (even when their trying to adapt GREEEN THINGS to'm)
MATT G. - You've flown out of FREEPORT INT'L AIRPORT?
The BEST airplane flight I ever had left from Freeport. It was a charter flight from Rkfd Aviation if I remember right, little twin piston engine Beechcraft if I remember right, about 20 yrs ago, early December. Cold clear day, temps in the low Teens, flew at 8000 ft right over the Quad-Cities, Muscatine, could even smell the corn cooking at Grain Processing Corp. on the south side of Muscatine.
I never appreciated how pretty the Miss. River was until that plane ride. It was frozen over already and snow covered, pretty easy to tell where all the barge tows were and had been.
Round trip flight to beautiful BLOOMFIELD, IA.
To keep this on-topic, NO Cub Cadets were seen and none were destroyed during the flight.
H. HARRY - Some people are just too infatuated with green paint. Sundstrand casts the hydro housing from alum. for two reasons, and maybe a few others also.... To dissipate heat and to keep it from rusting/corroding, and I'm sure it's cheaper than cast steel or cast iron also.
SO lets throw some PAINT on this thing!
The BEST airplane flight I ever had left from Freeport. It was a charter flight from Rkfd Aviation if I remember right, little twin piston engine Beechcraft if I remember right, about 20 yrs ago, early December. Cold clear day, temps in the low Teens, flew at 8000 ft right over the Quad-Cities, Muscatine, could even smell the corn cooking at Grain Processing Corp. on the south side of Muscatine.
I never appreciated how pretty the Miss. River was until that plane ride. It was frozen over already and snow covered, pretty easy to tell where all the barge tows were and had been.
Round trip flight to beautiful BLOOMFIELD, IA.
To keep this on-topic, NO Cub Cadets were seen and none were destroyed during the flight.
H. HARRY - Some people are just too infatuated with green paint. Sundstrand casts the hydro housing from alum. for two reasons, and maybe a few others also.... To dissipate heat and to keep it from rusting/corroding, and I'm sure it's cheaper than cast steel or cast iron also.
SO lets throw some PAINT on this thing!
Are sweepsters hard to find I would like one for my 122?
Lucas, I have one, I've seen several others come up for sale over the years both wide frame and narrow frame versions. Place an add in the classifieds and see if one turns up for you. Here's a few photos of mine. The hood was all beat up and then repaired by the previous owner. Also it was modified by the previous owner to use a right angle gear box and mounting bracket from a QA snow thrower. I have not used it in years as it needs new brushes, it's presently buried deep in the shed.
HH - You might amount to something now that you don't hang with Jim C anymore ... but did ya have to post that ? I'm already a little seasick from 13 hours on the lake !
Allen - Yup. Now if I can get the counter weight (1k pounds) off without killing myself I'll get the Kohler out and put it in the shop. I may have to "drill" it back to the shop to use the cherry picker.
Allen - Yup. Now if I can get the counter weight (1k pounds) off without killing myself I'll get the Kohler out and put it in the shop. I may have to "drill" it back to the shop to use the cherry picker.
1450
I’m back from an emergency situation in the boonies. Still have cub to get straightend out. I really hated losing last week. Did not return to cell live zone or computer until this AM.
I went back as far as June 13 to gather all of the comments I found about my 1450 that will not come up to speed. I hope I caught them all.
In no particular order of post:
1. The 3 roll pins (engine, after the fan, at the hydro)are in place and secure.
2. I have a double rag joint and they appear as in the manual illustrations
3. WHEN the speed increases, the drive shaft increases speed as the engine speed increases. The shaft is straight with no wobble as much as I can tell. It is centered at the joints as shown in the manual
4. When at idle the spring is loose and not under any tension. It is not impeded. I’m not aware of any kink, but I haven’t anything to judge the spring by as a comparison. I have picture but I continue to get the procedure for posting wrong I’ll try pictures today
5. When the throttle is full forward there is tension and the linkages appear to me to be working. There are no disconnections at any of the joints. When the throttle is advanced from idle the engine speed increases, but it takes a while (see throttle pictures at dash).
6. I did not remove the double clamp when I did all I did before. The firewall hole however is bent full back. To attempt to bend it back will snap it off. The shielding does not move when the cables within are moved at the dash. They are anchored at the clip. The cables slide within the shielding with input from the dashboard handles and push/pull knob. I can see or feel no kniks..
7. The engine does not begin to increase speed until the point on the dash shown in the picture.
8. There was a post (June 14) saying that it took two days to get me to place the Governor spring back to the correct holes. I never saw a post about that. If the spring is incorrect tell me where to place it or where I find the info on where I was advised to place it.
On June 14 Harry posted about setting the idle by moving the throttle cable forward. I did not get that far as I’m in the middle of a thunder storm. That’s next, perhaps tonight.
In the past, it was never this bad, but I have a old bill from the dealer that says ”cable adjustment”. When it was returned from the dealer, the throttle started at the bottom on the dash and gradually increased up until full throttle. Unfortunately I don’t know which cable or how much it was adjusted.
I’m back from an emergency situation in the boonies. Still have cub to get straightend out. I really hated losing last week. Did not return to cell live zone or computer until this AM.
I went back as far as June 13 to gather all of the comments I found about my 1450 that will not come up to speed. I hope I caught them all.
In no particular order of post:
1. The 3 roll pins (engine, after the fan, at the hydro)are in place and secure.
2. I have a double rag joint and they appear as in the manual illustrations
3. WHEN the speed increases, the drive shaft increases speed as the engine speed increases. The shaft is straight with no wobble as much as I can tell. It is centered at the joints as shown in the manual
4. When at idle the spring is loose and not under any tension. It is not impeded. I’m not aware of any kink, but I haven’t anything to judge the spring by as a comparison. I have picture but I continue to get the procedure for posting wrong I’ll try pictures today
5. When the throttle is full forward there is tension and the linkages appear to me to be working. There are no disconnections at any of the joints. When the throttle is advanced from idle the engine speed increases, but it takes a while (see throttle pictures at dash).
6. I did not remove the double clamp when I did all I did before. The firewall hole however is bent full back. To attempt to bend it back will snap it off. The shielding does not move when the cables within are moved at the dash. They are anchored at the clip. The cables slide within the shielding with input from the dashboard handles and push/pull knob. I can see or feel no kniks..
7. The engine does not begin to increase speed until the point on the dash shown in the picture.
8. There was a post (June 14) saying that it took two days to get me to place the Governor spring back to the correct holes. I never saw a post about that. If the spring is incorrect tell me where to place it or where I find the info on where I was advised to place it.
On June 14 Harry posted about setting the idle by moving the throttle cable forward. I did not get that far as I’m in the middle of a thunder storm. That’s next, perhaps tonight.
In the past, it was never this bad, but I have a old bill from the dealer that says ”cable adjustment”. When it was returned from the dealer, the throttle started at the bottom on the dash and gradually increased up until full throttle. Unfortunately I don’t know which cable or how much it was adjusted.
till
Well-known member
Cub...Cub....Cub.....Cub.....
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