Harry B. It's now just finding the time to work on everything. Plus poor Fancy can't be outside anymore for a long period of time or he gets kitty sneezes and starts coughing real quick. So I've lost my number one helper.
Love the easily accessible 1/4 turn valve in addition to and/or vs petcock,
I also did something similar on my 149, but The Fuel Line (police) Charlie P. steered me in the right direction as far as remaining plumbing from valve to carb. In which I am still "currently" in Violation!!!!
David S., nice job on the Original hood. As for the decals, there are no strict rules for placement. When I refurbished my Original I looked at all sorts of photos and then when I decided to place them I made sure that I placed them so the headlights didn't obscure them from the front 1/4 view. Here's a few photos of where I placed them. Compared to Bryan McMeen's old Original at the top of the forum page, I placed my decals slightly rearward.
Anyone out there with comments, suggestions, or advice on what is going on w/ the hydro relief valve on my Parts 1250, please do not hesitate to chime right in.
Tractor rolled with ease Loading at pick-up. After the 1hr & 30min drive home I had to press the "relief button" on the one valve that didn't have whatever that stuff is on top of the other valve to get tractor to roll for unloading.
I'm Also wanting suggestions as far as moving the entire rear and pump assembly from the 1250 to the 149 or if splitting both pumps from both rear's should be considered and just stick with the existing pump that is on 149 now?
Any info or comments would be greatly appreciated, Thanks!
I guess during the ride home the Non messed w/ valve relief must have just popped up, because tractor would not roll, so I pressed the button, it went down fairly easy and stayed down, then I was able to roll tractor again for unloading!
Any suggestions as far as any way to verify or test or assess condition of hydro pumps to determine which one I should use?
Jason, Now that beats the guy I knew whom used J.B Weld to fill in a tooth cavity, said his eare were ringing for two months. Boy, what a whopper your 1250 relief valve came to be. Watch the ball-peen. I have a slight, similar corner bend on this 125 right-rear fender that was suggested to be to use wood to make bend corrections. But, I'm no sheet steel repair man by means.
Now We're getting somewhere!
Very EXCELLENT question.
June 11th, week and a 1/2 ago when 149 got all new HY-TRAN, I actually saw the Inside of rear end. I was somewhat intimidated by all the Gears and Bearings. I could only relate what I was looking at to an automobile rear end. Mind you I'm no Mechanic by any means, Not sure if needing Press for Bearings or Shims for Clearences or if clutch packs are even in a 149 rear and not yet taking the time to sit down and do any research as far as looking up the Manuals for 149 Rear or knowing what types of tools would be required to change an axle my train of thought was just swap rear end's!
But I'm very glad you asked because now that you got me
may be LESS WORK doing exactly what you suggested!!!!
Jason, I believe there are clips that hold the axle shaft in place. Really look into the manuals you can download, and even order from the sponsors. They'll come in handy.
Dave, whenever my house hunt is over I may just hitch the equipment trailer to the f150 and take you up on that! Probably will be quite a while though. Did you finish that 126? I don't remember seeing a picture, but I love seeing restored cubs!
Hey guys---I need to tap into your experience. Last year on the way home from BC II plow day the steering box on my sons 100 broke in transit. The housing split and now you can spin the steering wheel around and around without it turning the front wheels. Fortunately I do have a couple of spare boxes on hand. My question is, what is the easiest way to remove and reinstall the steering box with the least amount of tractor disassembly? Can I support the front of the tractor up in the air high enough to slide out the box from the bottom and put in the rebuilt one? I need to get this thing fixed before the mid summer plowing begins...
Yes, it should come out fine.
Remove the steering nut and wheel first, Then the linkage rod from underneath along with the two bolts holding the column to the frame.
It should come out fine, provided you do not have a mowing deck or sickle mower on it!