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Archive through June 20, 2007

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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bmcmeen

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 31, 2002
Messages
2,106
displayname
Bryan D. McMeen, Keeper of the Holy Hy-Tran
Marion -

If you actually take the time to click on the Cub Cadet parts lookup button above, you'll realize that I got my information from MTD themselves. And it's not shown as NLA on THEIR site. So either they have bad information on their site or your dealer is too lazy to bother with ordering you two springs.

But it's not MY information...
 
Marion F.
Just so you'll know. I bought 2 sets from my Cub dealer less than 2 years ago and he ordered them in from MTD since he didn't stock any.
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J Michael D.
Thank you very much for the information. That is exactly what I was looking for. I appreciate the helpfulness very much. I owe you one.
Charlie,
Thanks for the input. I’ll try to order again tomorrow.
Bryan,
I don’t know about the updates of availability on the MTD arinet site and yes I did look at it first. That is when I called the dealer to order. The local large dealer has a very cooperative parts department with younger guys that are very much into and knowledgeable of older cubs. Couldn’t ask for any better. They keep their MTD files up to date I’m sure due to the high volume of MTD equipment they sell in OK and they said not available. I’ll try again tomorrow. They usually order from MTD a couple of times a week. The well known Internet dealer's (shall remain nameless) arinet sites also show not available.
Myron B.
Ouch. I was merely pointing out that I had the inclusive manuals regarding the problem. Many times manuals need to be supplemented by users who have the expertise or have BTDT experience.
 
Brent,
I have just done basically what you are talking about. I have a 129 hydro that had a similar problem.
I took the drive coupling off the engine and replaced it with the one from a ql series (1250, 1450,1650) and then added the flex disc and drive flange to my drive shaft.
Best mine has been since I have owned it.
It makes it super easy to take the driveshaft out, too.
Not that we really do it very often.
The only draw back I can see is that I am relying on the four bolts that hold the adapter to the flywheel for centering.
My flywheel adapter is mounted with the ball side to the hydro unit. IT does not fit the hub on the flywheel the other way around and the pilot seciton is too small for centering it.
I needed to get off the worn section of my driveshaft.
It is possible you may need to have a new pin hole location in the driveshaft as the length may be somewhat different.
I will be getting my first Quietline this week.
I will have a better grasp of some of the details.
Minor differences between the series.

Keep your 123 running.

Cheers, Dudley
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Andrew,
I have a 129 (2 actually).
Your machine has a big bunch of very custom additions to it that take care of a number of annoying little details. Take great care of your new toy. It has lived for 30 plus years and from the looks of it ready to go 30 more.

Mods I see: extra gauge on dash, moved choke cable, non standard and relocated hydro control lever. Late style mower deck with super heavy duty bracing of gauge wheels along with super duty rear gauge wheels. Appears to have an alloy anti-scalp roller, too. Nifty front wheels. Way better than IH. Lots of neat do dads. handles latches. I like the electric PTO mod and nifty custom pulley. Custom Grill and Headlights.
As you mentioned replacement motor (Should be a nice smooth running tractor.) Nifty intake manifold. some little trickimadiddle sticking out of sheet metal on right side between engine and pedastel (sp?) (late) Custom washers here and there. who knows what he did to the drive shaft.

Enjoy keep looking around on this site. esp the archive aka the Vault. and you will really begin to appreciate the custom work.

Dudley
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Brent,
the 129 is the smaller twin brother to the 149
12 hp versus 14 hp. other than that identical.
I am a bit jealous.

Dudley
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we have had too many now
 
Dudley, yes the custom additions to this tractor are great. I do not know much about these...yet, but yes there are mods to the driveshaft, the hydro pump etc. Its really a great machine.
 
Phil, I didn't have a chance last night to loo through the books I mentioned but I got to thinking that I might have been remembering James Garner and the Jeep "Maverick" Station Wagon adds. IF Andy Griffith had been in an add for Cub Cadet would his lines have gone like this: "Every man's better if he sits on a Cub, mmmmm, good tractor!" Sorry I couldn't help myself......
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BRYAN, CHARLIE - I was told a month or two ago by a local CC dealer that the decal kit for My 72 was "NLA" On a wild notion I called My "OTHER Dealer" and Son picks them up tonight....$5 cheaper than the set I bought for the 70/100 a month ago. Sometimes it Pays to shop a little harder....especially from those Pretty Boxes displayed above!
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I think MTD is doing a really good job supporting these old tractors.
 
I want to start collecting the pieces I know I'll need for my 100 restoration... I see on the big online auction place that a guy in florida is making 70/100 decal sets for about $45... does anyone have an opinion of these? I see other places they're priced anywhere from $60-80 and you get different decals. Some 100 numbers are rounded... some are squarish... the one's on my hood are squared... why the difference?
 
Andrew,
Maybe you could tease us with some more photos of this nice tractor and its mods.

Thanks
Dudley
No beer today oooh my head
 
I’ve spent a great deal of my life with a wrench in my hand, but I’ve never adjusted the valves in any type of engine. Can someone give a quick and dirty tutorial on how to adjust the valves on a K301? I have the IH service manual and the Kohler engine manual, but their diagrams and narrative are not terribly helpful. I know I need to adjust the valves because there is no clearance on either valve / tappet set.

Thanks!
 
Gave my 106 a front end alignment tonight. Think I might have had too much toe-out?

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I straightened the tie rod, reinstalled and adjusted the ends. Much better.

I've got a lot of slop in the whole steering sytem. The steering box assembly is pretty bad, and I plan to rebuild that next year. The left knuckle has quite a bit of slop in the hole at the top, where the pin for the drag link goes. Is there a trick to tighten that up, short of replacing the knuckle?
 
This is the part that is wallowed out:
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I tried pounding on the tie-rod ends, they are way to far gone for that!
 
782D expert wanted!
Can one you 782D experts, especially one that has been inside the D600 contact me directly. [email protected] have some questions regarding the D600 and don't want to fill up the site with questions. I will give you a toll free number to call me on so we can chat.
Thanks
 
Ccote.

That hole can be welded shut and re-drilled to the correct size by a good machine shop.
I have had one repaired that way a couple years back, so far so good.
 
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