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Archive through June 18, 2016

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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nbextermueller

Well-known member
Joined
May 18, 2007
Messages
909
displayname
Nic Bextermueller
That's what you guys get for not supporting the sponsors above...

Next time, don't go cheap. It NEVER works out. Keep in mind you get what you pay for.
 
Jason - yes the tip should be straight out. You can play around with the elbow exhaust pipe angle coming out of the block to assist in alignment but you're limited to the range of the slotted hole in the heat shield for locating the bolt to hold the far end of the muffler. And you have to be careful the muffler is rotated so far as to rub against the belt on the basket pulley. (By the way, Nic is very likely correct).
 
-Hydro-

YES! Nic B. is CORRECT!!!

And you are correct Also,
No matter how you rotate the elbow,
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There is a very limited range of rotation to
align w/ heat shield slot,

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So when you OPEN Brand new Muffler that just came
in the Mail, and you see THIS:

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You will Ultimately End up w/ THIS:

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I Totally understand Matt D. Cutting the tip off
to rotate in the Straight out Position, The 125
Manual shows the Exhaust tip much closer to the
grille housing than my 149. It looks like an
"angled forward" Tip on the 125 might partially
blow exhaust behind grille and grille housing.


Thanks Hydro


And Thanks to Nic B. For yet ANOTHER sound piece of advice from the IHCubcadet community!

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Matt G.

If I remember correctly, I think there were 2 slots on the muffler inlet. I would have to remove the Clamp to check orientation of the slots that slid over the exhaust elbow. I Rotated the clamp before locking it down so the hardware wouldn't be visible. Kind of a pain to tighten like that but has a cleaner look.

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Jason - I've never seen a clamp made from stainless like you have.
 
<font color="ffff00"><font size="+2">Happy</font></font> <font color="ffffff"><font size="+2">Fathers</font></font> <font color="ffff00"><font size="+2">Day</font></font> <font color="ffffff"><font size="+2">to</font></font> <font color="ffff00"><font size="+2">all</font></font> <font color="ffffff"><font size="+2">the</font></font> <font color="ffff00"><font size="+2">dad's</font></font> <font color="ffffff"><font size="+2">out</font></font> <font color="ffff00"><font size="+2">there!</font></font>
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I wanted to clean up the recently purchased 125, as to try to better show the viewer what it was that caught my eye beneath all the 48 service years of total crud, grease, oil, and the many paint stains. I ended up separating the frame from the trans axle, engine, and front axle. I could not resist the urge to dive into this especially since it was my day!

The 125 was like opening up a time capsule. There is the usual color discoloration around both sides of the battery box, from battery leakage over the years I suppose.

Do the Correct Police happen to know where the power conductor to the rear tail light will rout along the tractor frame to the light? The 125 is a worthy candidate for being in the "All Original Club".

Oh, by the way guys,.... recall I thought the engine suffered a broken connecting rod? Well the problem turned out to be a stuck exhaust valve! But, you all know the drill when you bring home a IH Cub Cadet, as cleaning and inspections take place. Paint and stickers are in great condition, no need for a restore here by any means!
 
John L.

Congrats on the Awesome Find, and also congrats on being able to dive in on "Your Day" Also!

Glad to hear it's just a Stuck Valve and not the connecting rod. I'm sure someone will jump in here on the proper routing for your tail light power lead.

Again, Congratulations!


My Dad Day didn't go so well,

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UGH!!!!

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Jason, Thank you! The 125 even has a IH Cub Cadet Parts And Service sticker from a dealer here in Cleveland,and living in/near Cleveland my entire 40 year life, I'm so happy my team just won the NBA Finals! I recall Mr.James and his sponsorship to the Cub Cadet Line!

Ouch!!! I can't imagine what happened to your nice 149. I'm certain some one here can help if you don't already have the replacements you need. Don't get bummed out about that. Must have been a fracture waiting to complete,...I never seen a break like that.
 
John, sounds like you got a Real Jem there!
149 I purchased about 3mnths ago, was also a one owner and they even gave me the original 1974 sales receipt! I feel your excitement, I've been on cloud 9 since the purchase and through the entire Refurbish, Today I consider just a small set back, can't let things get you down!!! Even though I did a Hydro Fluid change just last week, UGH! LoL,

I've Already found a Parts 1250 w/ hydro lift, near my hometown missing motor and a few other parts, owner says Rear end and Hydro pump are good though, I might go check it out 2moro. CC Parts Look up at top of page shows Rear End and axles as the Same Part #'s as my 149.

Anyway Congrats again, and good luck w/ the 125 Refurbish!!!

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Jason, OUCH!
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How did that happen?
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OK, here's what I think I have for QA latch springs. On one of my parts tractors the latch bail is rusted in the up position, seeing that it's up I assume the springs are there. Two others have the springs but either they are weak or the bail is rusty and sticky. The fourth moves nicely. It sounds like a viable alternative has been found in the 82 series spring so I didn't pursue removing any of them or looking under any of the parts tractors to see if the springs are in decent condition.
 
Kraig-

Thanks for looking. I am going to go ahead and use the 82 series style repair, as I think that is the better fix.

Jason,

I also want to know how that happened. I have never seen that before
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That's the second axle failure like that I've seen, on a long forgotten 105 I think, I dragged out of brush. Couldn't tell you what happened, and I wasn't able to salvage much as it had been picked over many years before me. Dad is enjoying the 1450 being substituted for the newer JD at his church. Several failures amounted to a service pickup by JD. 3 weeks in the running now.
I had a PTO scare on the 1450, turns out power wire fell off switch and shorted on frame blowing fuse.
"Whew!"
Hour of disassembly and wire repair and she's going Strong!
 
On the 782, having problems with the carb. She can't get enough fuel no matter if the main is past fully out. Fuel pump is functioning fine. I'm going to pull and let soak, there must be something in their I didn't clean out. I'm going to get a gallon can of carb cleaner, any issues with letting it sit for a few days? I'm going to pull all but shafts.
 
Jason W. I'll bet there's not a forum member that didn't flinch when they say that axle housing (OUCH!). Fall off the jack with the wheel off? Inquiring minds want to know...

BTW - I like your "damn the torpedos.." attitude while that won't just buff out, it'll be back running soon - we can tell.
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John L - I'm not the Correct Police but the power conductor wire for the rear tail light on your 125 should be routed where there are little clips attached to the frame - assuming the tail light was a factory installed option. If it wasn't then you'll have to find a donor tractor with the little factory wire clips. As I recall they are about 3/8" wide and clip over the frame so they are hardly seen. Now, since I'm not the Correct Police I'm assuming the factory used the same little clips that they used on the 1x8/9 and Quiet Line series tractors for the rear light wires. And someone else on here will have to tell you which side of the frame the wire mounts to, and if it crosses the frame someplace - but I would assume it routes on the correct side of the frame right from the dash pedestal.

Jason - I've never EVER seen anything like it. What the "H" happened to your rear axle?
Also, that parts 1250 could have aluminum axle carriers instead of cast iron. And it may have internal wet brakes instead of your external disc style. IH went back and forth on the wet brakes/disc brakes during the Quiet Line production, and also made the change to aluminum carriers during the production of the Quiet Line series.

Gerry - FLINCH!!!!!! I did more than that!!!! Can't believe it!!!! And in 2 places as well. It's like a 1 ton ball dropped on it with a jack stand under the middle of the carrier. But doubt that could be it either since the brake disc appears fine. No, wait a minute. I see now it's only broke in 1 place. The other place that appeared broke is actually where the brake caliper mounts to the axle.
 
I'm getting ready to put hydro fluid in a 149. It is totally dry and has a new, dry filter so would it be better to remove the relief valves and pour some in there as well? I haven't done this much and don't want to cause any damage upon starting. I'm assuming the hydraulic system (ram, lines, and spool valve) is dry as well so any tips will be appreciated.

This will be another worker as all of mine are and I've been through it from bumper to bumper.

Charlie-

What are the yellow, squishy, 3" round discs you included in my last order? I must have lived a sheltered life because I can't figure it out to save me. Thanks for them BTW.

.
 
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