Archive through June 05, 2017

[sblunier]

Did you shim the cam to specs when you re-assembled? Kohler singles can get cam knock from too loose end play shims. I always shim them to the tight side of the spec to avoid it. Put a long screw driver one the cam cover and put your ear to it....see if the noise is coming from there.

Also, how are your engine mounts....make sure those $#%^ rubber engine mounts aren't allowing the engine to flop around and knock.

Finally, check you driveline couplers, roll pins, etc. for excess slop/wear.

 

[memorgan]

Motor bearing...had a 12 hp that I built...had to disasemble down to the front main bearing...only knocked under a load. .just my 2 cents!!

 

[dschwandt]

Vince T.
At least it looks better than this $75 POS I drug home a couple weeks ago....
Complete w/a JD K181, so the guy says!!

But wait!, there's more. This is just the way I got it..... Look closely, I did not, till later that night when I camped at my buddies house for the night, this was on the way to AJ's show.....

 

[kmcconaughey]

David,

that poor Cub. Is that a creeper gear shift lever I see? And they used a under frame shield aka belly pan for a tunnel cover. Safety first!

 

[hydroharry]

David - that sure does look like a JD K181 with the side muffler set up. Course you'd end up with a hybrid Model 86/800 if you leave the 8hp in it.

Kraig mentioned it and I see the Creeper knob under that belly pan (grass shield) but it's slid over the tunnel cover which Kraig thought was missing. I'll take that $75 POS all day long (figure you more or less stole it at that price).

 

[rhanenkrat]

Sad ,,, the things that happen to these old cubs.

 

[dschwandt]

I also picked up 5 Kohler motors that day,
Two 12's and three 10's.

So, one of the 12's will wind up in a different early wide frame and become a 128 w/the creeper.
Plan is to use it as my #1 tiller unit next spring as the 1450 it's currently on is getting tired.

 

[masmith]

I picked up this sweeper yesterday for $25. Wheels and brushes turn very easy and seem to work as they should. I'm fairly certain this was made by Parker, Model Arlington AS-8636. I plan on doing a minor cleaning and using it regularly. Any thoughts on a replacement bag and brushes for the future?

 

[gloughery]

Howdy all, my 169 has a hole for a relief valve lever, but nothing is attached. Not sure if I have manual or auto valves, how can I tell? I just read Digger's response to Don Trend a few days ago and it has me thinking I may need to buy more parts. Thanks all!

 

[digger]

George L.
If your valves have little buttons that stick up in the center, they are manual, if they have a little hole in the center, they would be automatics.

 

[gloughery]

Digger, looks like they are manual. Should replacing these parts be an immediate concern? What must I be careful to avoid until I correct this? Thanks.

 

[gloughery]

Here is a photo, dirty, but not leaking.

 

[rrschmitt]

George L,

Yep, you have manual relief valves. As long as they are not leaking and the hydro moves fwd and reverse, your valves are fine. Your hydro pump is actually pretty clean compared to others I have dealt with.

You are missing two parts on your tunnel cover which are used to push the buttons down to facilitate manually moving your 169 when the engine is shutoff. The parts are a lever rod and a hydro release lever. The sponsors above would have those two parts to fix your 169 right up. Cub Cadet Specialties even includes the roll pin with the release lever.

Note: The hole in your tunnel cover should also have a rubber grommet in the hole for the lever rod but may have been lost due to age so you may need to get that as well if it is missing.

 

[digger]

I personally wouldn't do anything, LOL
It it broke, don't fix it!
If they are not leaking, leave'um alone.
BUT, there's many out there that will say you NEED to get the release lever put in and the flapper so relieve the pressure on the valves if you ever want to roll it around.
I let it set till they release on their own and do what I gotta do.
The hydro pumps are not a fragile as the manuals let one, believe me! I know. LOL

But it'[s your tractor and you do what you want and be happy with the end result.

 

[hydroharry]

George L - hmmm, kind of a stumper for me. I generally agree with Charlie except I would clean all that crud off the pump. That grease coating has gotta make it hard to cool off.

The reason I say leave it alone is that you could cause yourself a problem. Those relief valve buttons obviously haven't been moved (depressed) in quite some time. If you clean them up and get the release lever and rod (handle) as Ron noted, and then you go depressing your buttons you might just cause a leak to start showing, or worse yet one of them could stick in the depressed position and you may end up having to replace it.

So as Charlie said (or I think he said), if it ain't broke don't fix it.

 

[fcurrier]

I never thought Hydro would say what I just heard, especially about a 169! The tunnel cover is off - clean the crud off the pump - I can go there, but those manual valves are tough, so I'll add half of 2 cents worth. Once the crud is off (and it's minimal compared to some I've seen) remove the "rust" from the buttons, give them a good shot of penetrating oil, start the tractor and let it run in neutral and push those puppies down. I'll bet you a working one or two that they'll work as they're meant to. You're lucky, the buttons are both in the up position. Wait 'til you get a good deal on a Hydro Cub Cadet just because 1 or both of those buttons are stuck down!

 

[digger]

This guy is serious!
On 6/6/2017 8:41 PM, Ryan S wrote:
> I contacted you awhile back about buying my cub cadet 108 it's together and ready to go away you pick up I'll take $100

}

 

[danderson]

Maybe he has a creeper he can throw in at that price

 

[ekincaid]

I'm mulling over the idea of grabbing a128 any advice on what I should look for on a stick shift cc.im looking for a back up but something different and something that falls in between my hydro 125 and my hydro 1450s

 

[jlspicer]

I wonder if that starter on that K181 is the same one that goes on the 800's Dave. I can't remember if they are the same small ones. If so, and it works, you could sell it and buy 3 or 4 more $75 dollar cubbies.