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Archive through June 02, 2008
- Thread starter lbuttke
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
bcarl
Well-known member
<font color="000000"><font face="arial,helvetica"></font>Hi, I'm a new member. Here are three of my cub cadets. I also have a 70,(sorry no pics).
I drive the nearby JD dealer nuts when I plow or throw snow past his dealership.
We share a common right-of-way.
Bruce</font>
}
I drive the nearby JD dealer nuts when I plow or throw snow past his dealership.
We share a common right-of-way.
Bruce</font>
Hi, Guys I am new to the forum. I have a penchant for the old cadets. It is hard to beat the quality that IH put into these units. I have a question that I am hoping that someone may have an answer for. I have a rear mount scrape blade. I need the helper springs that mount on each side of it. I have checked the part number at the local Case IH dealer and it is a dead number all the way around. Is there somewher else I can find them?
Tom
Tom
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2006
- Messages
- 2,912
- displayname
- Allen Schumacher
Thom C. Two quick thoughts..
1. Advertise for them in the Wanted to Buy Classifieds a couple slots under this Forum.
2. Contact some of the sponsers shown above(click on their business card). A number have used parts and vast amounts of knowledge on Cub stuff.
1. Advertise for them in the Wanted to Buy Classifieds a couple slots under this Forum.
2. Contact some of the sponsers shown above(click on their business card). A number have used parts and vast amounts of knowledge on Cub stuff.
Bruce C.
Glad to have ya.
With 2 147's, (The BEST Cub Cadets ever made), you don't need anything else.
Glad to have ya.
With 2 147's, (The BEST Cub Cadets ever made), you don't need anything else.
kwingerson
Active member
- Joined
- May 19, 2007
- Messages
- 30
- displayname
- Kent Wingerson
UPDATE to all who've made suggestions on my 149 that dies after 30-40 minutes of running great... rather than dive into the valves and head gasket arena immediately, I figured I could be more thorough in the fuel field.
I've added an inline fuel filter, and checked the tank lid vent hole. I've disassembled the carb again and removed the metal gas tank for close inspection. I did find some interesting things - one, there was what appeared to be bug parts (or misc. debris) floating around that I've removed. No idea where it came from. I did not see evidence of rust. All pieces have been cleaned again.
Two, my screen filter inside the tank was apparently torn at the base, and as I cleaned the inside with an air hose and rags it came off completely. I wonder if this flopping around could have positioned itself at times to hinder the gas flow. So, with my inline filter on the gas line to the carb, can I forget about the tank screen filter?
Another question - there's a fair amount of play in top part of the choke plate shaft. I know that is affecting the carb operation. Any ideas about a sleeve or bushing of some sort to make a nice snug fit again? I'm waiting on reassembling the carb until Tuesday, although I don't think this is a critical fix.
Thanks!
Kent
I've added an inline fuel filter, and checked the tank lid vent hole. I've disassembled the carb again and removed the metal gas tank for close inspection. I did find some interesting things - one, there was what appeared to be bug parts (or misc. debris) floating around that I've removed. No idea where it came from. I did not see evidence of rust. All pieces have been cleaned again.
Two, my screen filter inside the tank was apparently torn at the base, and as I cleaned the inside with an air hose and rags it came off completely. I wonder if this flopping around could have positioned itself at times to hinder the gas flow. So, with my inline filter on the gas line to the carb, can I forget about the tank screen filter?
Another question - there's a fair amount of play in top part of the choke plate shaft. I know that is affecting the carb operation. Any ideas about a sleeve or bushing of some sort to make a nice snug fit again? I'm waiting on reassembling the carb until Tuesday, although I don't think this is a critical fix.
Thanks!
Kent
Well the floor in the house is done, back to cub work! I got the PTO (128) painted and rebuilt today.
I also dug out my homemade 3-point setup.
I made this last summer. The upper link is made of two inch heavy gauge box steel. I welded grade 8 nuts in the corners to attach upper link to frame. I then closed the ends in with 1/4 inch steel plate. The upper link is mounted to the frame with a pair of Frankinstein bolts. The lift arm was taken from a parts straight back mule drive(one side). I shortened the arm and welded up the extra holes. The bottom "U" shaped piece was made from 1/4 inch steel plate, 3 1/2 tall. I may redo this piece, as it looks too bulky for the rear of the tractor.
The lift arm attaching point is made of 1 inch solid steel round bar as is the center piece to attach the lifting straps for Brinly style sleeve hitch.
I made this setup one afternoon at a friends house, that has a welding shop. The bird t@#d welds are all mine. I plan on cleaning all of the welds up and redrilling the lift attaching points to be able to use bushings. At the time I had more time than money, soo... this is what I came up with.
I also dug out my homemade 3-point setup.
I made this last summer. The upper link is made of two inch heavy gauge box steel. I welded grade 8 nuts in the corners to attach upper link to frame. I then closed the ends in with 1/4 inch steel plate. The upper link is mounted to the frame with a pair of Frankinstein bolts. The lift arm was taken from a parts straight back mule drive(one side). I shortened the arm and welded up the extra holes. The bottom "U" shaped piece was made from 1/4 inch steel plate, 3 1/2 tall. I may redo this piece, as it looks too bulky for the rear of the tractor.
The lift arm attaching point is made of 1 inch solid steel round bar as is the center piece to attach the lifting straps for Brinly style sleeve hitch.
I made this setup one afternoon at a friends house, that has a welding shop. The bird t@#d welds are all mine. I plan on cleaning all of the welds up and redrilling the lift attaching points to be able to use bushings. At the time I had more time than money, soo... this is what I came up with.
Greg P.
Try putting it on the other side.
Try putting it on the other side.
Back to the mower deck questions on my newly acquired 1250.
I followed much of the advice here and got the deck hung level. It cuts pretty even and level at about 2.5" cutting height. In previous posts I was told that the deck should go to 4"+, so let's figure out what I need to do.
Here are some measurements I have taken with the lift handle in the uppermost slot.
Bottom of frame to the ground - 12.5"
Bottom of frame to C.L. of pin in the rear bracket (QA) - 5"
C.L. of QA pin to top of mower deck - 2.25"
Underside of mower deck to cutting edge of mower blade - 3"
Cutting edge of blade to the ground - 2.5"
The most likely point for modification would be the deck hanger rods. Currently one is a fixed length and one is adjustable. It is 3" from C.L. of pin to pin. The adjustable one has about 0.5" of threads available to raise the deck. Are there hangers that would allow about 2" from pin to pin? Is replacement of the hangers necessary to get the deck higher? Where are my measurements different than what they should be?
I appreciate any and all help.
I followed much of the advice here and got the deck hung level. It cuts pretty even and level at about 2.5" cutting height. In previous posts I was told that the deck should go to 4"+, so let's figure out what I need to do.
Here are some measurements I have taken with the lift handle in the uppermost slot.
Bottom of frame to the ground - 12.5"
Bottom of frame to C.L. of pin in the rear bracket (QA) - 5"
C.L. of QA pin to top of mower deck - 2.25"
Underside of mower deck to cutting edge of mower blade - 3"
Cutting edge of blade to the ground - 2.5"
The most likely point for modification would be the deck hanger rods. Currently one is a fixed length and one is adjustable. It is 3" from C.L. of pin to pin. The adjustable one has about 0.5" of threads available to raise the deck. Are there hangers that would allow about 2" from pin to pin? Is replacement of the hangers necessary to get the deck higher? Where are my measurements different than what they should be?
I appreciate any and all help.
Myron,
I did say try.
We need to get these guys cameras.
I did say try.
We need to get these guys cameras.
Hi Digger...Yeah, you are right on a couple of accounts. 1)If they would just post a photo then we'd know how to properly respond. 2) If he does have the Brinly and something (I can't imgine what) is interfereing with the installation of it, then he may have to go find himself an IH lift assist like you showed and install it instead...Ahh life without a crystal ball...
Myron B
Myron B
Well, I got the hydraulic valve mounted in my 129 last night. (Thanks Charlie). Now my question is this... What hose goes where? There are 2 connections on the valve, top and bottom. And there are 2 connections on the cylinder, front and rear. What connection from the valve goes to what connection on the cylinder. I checked all the manuals and FAQs. Thanks for the help again!!
Brian, the Parts Lookup website (see the link above?) has nice exploded view parts drawings that are quite helpful for seeing how stuff goes together.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Donald H.-
You'll need either a wiring harness from an 1810/1811, or you'll need to add a relay and a few wires to make the ignition switch work. The major difference between the KT17 and M18 is that the KT has points and a coil, and the M18 has electronic ignition. The reason the wiring needs to be altered is, power is applied to the coil on the KT, but on the Magnum, the ignition switch has to ground the magneto to shut off the engine. No power is applied to the magneto on the Magnum engine.
You'll need either a wiring harness from an 1810/1811, or you'll need to add a relay and a few wires to make the ignition switch work. The major difference between the KT17 and M18 is that the KT has points and a coil, and the M18 has electronic ignition. The reason the wiring needs to be altered is, power is applied to the coil on the KT, but on the Magnum, the ignition switch has to ground the magneto to shut off the engine. No power is applied to the magneto on the Magnum engine.
Brian, here's a photo of my parts 149 hydraulics that also might be helpful.
