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Archive through July 30, 2015
- Thread starter wcompton
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Myron B.
I was answering Doug's question and did not read your 1st post at 11:32 until just now. It appears you think my Hy Tran vs CC fluid post was directed at your post, it was not. I read Doug's post just after 11:00 and proceeded to research the subject for the better part of my lunch hour.
But since you stated "we had to know the difference", please do tell I would like to know
Jim
I was answering Doug's question and did not read your 1st post at 11:32 until just now. It appears you think my Hy Tran vs CC fluid post was directed at your post, it was not. I read Doug's post just after 11:00 and proceeded to research the subject for the better part of my lunch hour.
But since you stated "we had to know the difference", please do tell I would like to know
Jim
jnicklas
Well-known member
I picked up a couple of mower decks yesterday that were supposed to have been on 6/782 series. One is a 50C no problem but the other is a 44LT. After doing some looking it appears that this is a 44A/C shell that MTD has repurposed for a newer model. I have included some pictures and I think I can do a little parts swapping to make this into a 44A/C deck. I have reviewed all the old posting about modifying the 46/54GT to fit the WF, QL and 82 and think I can do a similar mod. Looking at the deck you can see this has 6 pulleys. The 3 blade drive pulleys are in the same relationship as the A/C deck. It also has the mounting holes on the back for the Q/R pin brackets. I would have to add the plate for the front eye bolts, grind off some vertical mounting tabs for the current lift frame and do away with the extra pulleys and add the proper tensioner. I was wondering if anyone else had any experience with the 44LT deck.
Attachments
mgonitzke
Well-known member
John N.-
My 782 has one of those decks on it. You'll need to swap the idler arm and center spindle from a 44C deck. One of those existing idler pulleys should fit the 44C idler arm. You will probably have to weld some metal onto the front mount to make it similar to the 44C deck. The quick coupler brackets will bolt onto the holes at the back, but I would cut off those existing brackets as they are kind of in the way.
My 782 has one of those decks on it. You'll need to swap the idler arm and center spindle from a 44C deck. One of those existing idler pulleys should fit the 44C idler arm. You will probably have to weld some metal onto the front mount to make it similar to the 44C deck. The quick coupler brackets will bolt onto the holes at the back, but I would cut off those existing brackets as they are kind of in the way.
snicklas
Well-known member
Ed,
I have replaced the oil pan in a Quietline (mine was a 1450, but the steps are basically the same).
The way I go about pulling the engine in a Quietline (you have to pull the engine to replace the pan, since the pan is what is holding the engine to the tractor)
1. Unhook supply wire from tractor from headlights (if equipped)
2. Remove side panels
3. Remove hood and front grill casting (can be done as 1 piece)
4. Shut off valve on fuel tank, unhook fuel line from carb, and remove firewall/tank as a unit. On the newer Quietlines, the wiring harness that goes to the lights, starter, voltage regulator and PTO go through a hole in the firewall, this will all need to be disconnected before you remove the firewall. If it lies in the frame, it still needs to be disconnected, but can be done after the firewall is removed. Also, remove the throttle and choke cables.
5. Unbolt the 2 bolts from the ragjoint on the driveshaft to the engine (the other 2 hold the ragjoint to the driveshaft and don't need removed)
6. Unbolt the 4 bolts holding the pan to the ISO bars, 2 inside the front axle channel and you have to lift the tractor and secure it up, and tilt the axle down to reach these bolts, they are 9/16 head...
7. Hook a lifting device to the lifting eye near the sparkplug, start to take the a bit of the weight off the tractor and slide the engine forward so it will come free of the driveshaft. The driveshaft has a little "nub" that slides inside the hub on the back of the engine.
At this point the engine should be loose, carefully remove it and replace the pan. I normally try and find an older pan since they are cast iron (all the ones I've seen/had that were cast iron were painted yellow) as the Quietline has an aluminum pan.
Also this would be a good time to inspect/replace the ISO mount rubbers on the rails, and I highly suggest, since you are this far, to do the "cradle mod"
From Charlie's FAQ's: 23. How do I fix my Quietline Engine ISO Mounts and Bracket?
http://cubfaq.com/isomount.html
I just did this on my 1650, and did it 8 years ago on my 1450 and the ISO mounts are still in good shape.....
Reverse the above to reinstall. Not a really hard job, just give yourself most of an afternoon to do it.
Dad and I have pulled and replaced enough engines in Cubs over the years we can do it in just a few hours, but if you have never done it, take your time and all should go well.
Don't forget to get a new pan gasket before you tear it apart.........
I have replaced the oil pan in a Quietline (mine was a 1450, but the steps are basically the same).
The way I go about pulling the engine in a Quietline (you have to pull the engine to replace the pan, since the pan is what is holding the engine to the tractor)
1. Unhook supply wire from tractor from headlights (if equipped)
2. Remove side panels
3. Remove hood and front grill casting (can be done as 1 piece)
4. Shut off valve on fuel tank, unhook fuel line from carb, and remove firewall/tank as a unit. On the newer Quietlines, the wiring harness that goes to the lights, starter, voltage regulator and PTO go through a hole in the firewall, this will all need to be disconnected before you remove the firewall. If it lies in the frame, it still needs to be disconnected, but can be done after the firewall is removed. Also, remove the throttle and choke cables.
5. Unbolt the 2 bolts from the ragjoint on the driveshaft to the engine (the other 2 hold the ragjoint to the driveshaft and don't need removed)
6. Unbolt the 4 bolts holding the pan to the ISO bars, 2 inside the front axle channel and you have to lift the tractor and secure it up, and tilt the axle down to reach these bolts, they are 9/16 head...
7. Hook a lifting device to the lifting eye near the sparkplug, start to take the a bit of the weight off the tractor and slide the engine forward so it will come free of the driveshaft. The driveshaft has a little "nub" that slides inside the hub on the back of the engine.
At this point the engine should be loose, carefully remove it and replace the pan. I normally try and find an older pan since they are cast iron (all the ones I've seen/had that were cast iron were painted yellow) as the Quietline has an aluminum pan.
Also this would be a good time to inspect/replace the ISO mount rubbers on the rails, and I highly suggest, since you are this far, to do the "cradle mod"
From Charlie's FAQ's: 23. How do I fix my Quietline Engine ISO Mounts and Bracket?
http://cubfaq.com/isomount.html
I just did this on my 1650, and did it 8 years ago on my 1450 and the ISO mounts are still in good shape.....
Reverse the above to reinstall. Not a really hard job, just give yourself most of an afternoon to do it.
Dad and I have pulled and replaced enough engines in Cubs over the years we can do it in just a few hours, but if you have never done it, take your time and all should go well.
Don't forget to get a new pan gasket before you tear it apart.........
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jnicklas
Well-known member
Mat, thanks, after doing some studying this is what I thought. Remove the extra pulleys, swap the center pulley/spindle and remove the lifting tabs, add the rear lifting brackets and make/salvage a front lifting eye plate. I want to do these mods because this has the front gauge wheel brackets already installed. Thanks again.
jnicklas
Well-known member
Ed, one thing Scott didn’t mention, on the 2 bolts that are in the axle channel, you will need an offset 9/16 box end wrench, these are a pain to get too. The heads are inside a hole in the frame rails and not much is available to get to. The ones on the back are in the open and easy to get too. As Scott also mentioned, do the engine rail mod. When Scott got his 1450 the PO had not done any maintenance on the tractor and we found the rubber mounts shot, missing bolts in the pan to mount the engine and the pan and engine rail rubbing on the top of the cross member/axel channel. This ruined the pan and wore a grove in the cross member. While you are in there check around the axel channel and mounting hole for cracks, we found a few in Scott’s and welded them up. We did this same process on his 1650 about 3 weeks ago, and I did my 1650 last year.
Hi everyone,
I thought I would share some pics of last weekend before I ask my question. A friend asked me to help move 20 yards of loam. Having the new to me 782 with the loader, how could I refuse! I had fun moving it from the driveway area to the back of the house to along his fence.
Enjoy the pics.
Rich W.
I thought I would share some pics of last weekend before I ask my question. A friend asked me to help move 20 yards of loam. Having the new to me 782 with the loader, how could I refuse! I had fun moving it from the driveway area to the back of the house to along his fence.
Enjoy the pics.
Rich W.
Attachments
My loader issue is:
I used the loader for about 3 hours straight stopping only for the occasional drink of water, must be good when operating heavy machinery. There were no issues during this time.
Then we stopped for lunch, about 45 minutes. After that, I used it for about twenty (20) minutes and then when I tried to lift the next bucket with a load, it would not lift. I tried to curl the bucket and that would not work. I was able to dump the load backing up. With the bucket empty I am able to lift and curl the bucket.
What I have done:
Drained and replaced the fluid. It was filled with ATF so I used new ATF.
I tightened up the pump belt a little, not very loose. I did look at the pump running while my son tried to lift the front of the tractor and it would not lift it. In looking at the pump it looked like it was not slipping under load.
Do any of you have a clue on what might be preventing it from working properly?
Thanks in advance.
Rich W.
I used the loader for about 3 hours straight stopping only for the occasional drink of water, must be good when operating heavy machinery. There were no issues during this time.
Then we stopped for lunch, about 45 minutes. After that, I used it for about twenty (20) minutes and then when I tried to lift the next bucket with a load, it would not lift. I tried to curl the bucket and that would not work. I was able to dump the load backing up. With the bucket empty I am able to lift and curl the bucket.
What I have done:
Drained and replaced the fluid. It was filled with ATF so I used new ATF.
I tightened up the pump belt a little, not very loose. I did look at the pump running while my son tried to lift the front of the tractor and it would not lift it. In looking at the pump it looked like it was not slipping under load.
Do any of you have a clue on what might be preventing it from working properly?
Thanks in advance.
Rich W.
Rich,
The first thing I would check is the pressure the pump is putting out. You will need a 1000-1500 psi gauge and the appropriate fittings to connect to the pump outlet or pressure line.
Also check that there is a free flowing supply of oil to the pump inlet.
This is a place to start.
Does the pump run off the front PTO?
Jim
The first thing I would check is the pressure the pump is putting out. You will need a 1000-1500 psi gauge and the appropriate fittings to connect to the pump outlet or pressure line.
Also check that there is a free flowing supply of oil to the pump inlet.
This is a place to start.
Does the pump run off the front PTO?
Jim
Jim,
That makes good sense on checking the pressure. Fittings are not a problem. I will have to find a pressure gauge.
Yes it is running off the front PTO.
Rich W.
That makes good sense on checking the pressure. Fittings are not a problem. I will have to find a pressure gauge.
Yes it is running off the front PTO.
Rich W.
