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Archive through July 28, 2014
- Thread starter pbell
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Hello! I am new to this forum and am enjoying the posts immensely.
I have my Grandpa's beautiful Cub Cadet. I am going to see if I can get it all up and running again and hope that maybe one of my brothers in suburbia will want to take it and drive around like we used to when we were kids. It is in good shape with its vintage wear and tear.
My first question of probably many: If I remove the original vinyl on the seat, will that seat be useful as is? And/or any ideas on how to either repair or replace the vinyl? It is "unsewn" on the seams.
After this, I will be looking into the workings of everything else. It runs OK. I need to check the workability of all of the attachments: plow/blade; mower; snow blower; trailer.
Thank you! Allison
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I have my Grandpa's beautiful Cub Cadet. I am going to see if I can get it all up and running again and hope that maybe one of my brothers in suburbia will want to take it and drive around like we used to when we were kids. It is in good shape with its vintage wear and tear.
My first question of probably many: If I remove the original vinyl on the seat, will that seat be useful as is? And/or any ideas on how to either repair or replace the vinyl? It is "unsewn" on the seams.
After this, I will be looking into the workings of everything else. It runs OK. I need to check the workability of all of the attachments: plow/blade; mower; snow blower; trailer.
Thank you! Allison
mgwin
Well-known member
Allison C.,
Welcome to the forum!!
You have a nice looking 100 there. As for the seat, the vinyl is only a cover and you can remove it. I hope the seat hasn't been exposed to any rain, as moisture will absorb into the cushion and rust out the seat. You can find reproduction seat covers if you want a new one.
You should have no problem getting the 100 up and running, as the fine sponsors at the top of the page can get you about anything you need.
Also check out the frequently asked questions at the top of the page. This will help you tremendously. When you click on the faq's you can also go to Charlie's faq's and learn even more.
Welcome to the forum!!
You have a nice looking 100 there. As for the seat, the vinyl is only a cover and you can remove it. I hope the seat hasn't been exposed to any rain, as moisture will absorb into the cushion and rust out the seat. You can find reproduction seat covers if you want a new one.
You should have no problem getting the 100 up and running, as the fine sponsors at the top of the page can get you about anything you need.
Also check out the frequently asked questions at the top of the page. This will help you tremendously. When you click on the faq's you can also go to Charlie's faq's and learn even more.
mgwin
Well-known member
Paul,
Are you sure it's not lightly printed on the little square raised spot to the right of the item number? I have one that I had to clean the heck out of that little square place and look at it with a flashlight held at an angle to see it!
By the way, thanks for the valuable input you contribute to the forum.
Are you sure it's not lightly printed on the little square raised spot to the right of the item number? I have one that I had to clean the heck out of that little square place and look at it with a flashlight held at an angle to see it!
By the way, thanks for the valuable input you contribute to the forum.
Marty,
I'm sure. It does not have a serial number on it. The 70/100 S/N's were originally stamped into the gear reduction housing, and moved to the raised boss later in the 70/100 run. Originally the numbers were hand stamped and were not always evenly spaced and sometimes lightly stamped. When the numbers were moved to the square boss, the numbers were evenly spaced, usually a equal depth, as if they were machine stamped or the number dies placed in a holding fixture to stamp them. The "red" paint you see on the transmission is not primer but is a casting sealer such as gliptall (sp) that IH used on all the Louisville castings
I'm sure. It does not have a serial number on it. The 70/100 S/N's were originally stamped into the gear reduction housing, and moved to the raised boss later in the 70/100 run. Originally the numbers were hand stamped and were not always evenly spaced and sometimes lightly stamped. When the numbers were moved to the square boss, the numbers were evenly spaced, usually a equal depth, as if they were machine stamped or the number dies placed in a holding fixture to stamp them. The "red" paint you see on the transmission is not primer but is a casting sealer such as gliptall (sp) that IH used on all the Louisville castings
mgwin
Well-known member
Paul, Thanks!
Harry, Nic:
I guess I will pull the front wheels off again and repack the bearings. Although it doesn't appear that the bearings are starving for grease, a good re-pack never hurts. I don't have grease zerks on my wheels, and last year when I put on new tires and did a repack, I loaded them up pretty well with grease. I'll need to try to find some shim washers somewhere and see if that tightens up anything. There doesn't seem to be much end play, but the up and down movement on the spindle does concern me.
Thanks again for your comments.
I guess I will pull the front wheels off again and repack the bearings. Although it doesn't appear that the bearings are starving for grease, a good re-pack never hurts. I don't have grease zerks on my wheels, and last year when I put on new tires and did a repack, I loaded them up pretty well with grease. I'll need to try to find some shim washers somewhere and see if that tightens up anything. There doesn't seem to be much end play, but the up and down movement on the spindle does concern me.
Thanks again for your comments.
jchamberlin
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Brian: It seems from where I sit, which is far from your tractor, that it the wheel is moving up-and-down on the spindle it should also be moving side-to-side, since the assembly is comprised of rings on cylinders: the inner race of the bearing being the ring and the spindle being the cylinder. As Harry described it, the outer race should fit "snugly" into the wheel (no lateral movement) and the inner race should slide smoothly onto the spindle shaft (limited lateral movement). I believe the Service Manual does mention using shims to limit axial movement of the wheel assembly on the spindle. (And Harry, if the Service Manual specifies 1/32" travel and you're using 1/64" shims, once it is tight you should remove two (2) shims to get your 1/32" end play, it seems to me. I would simply use a feeler gauge.)
Brian, if you fit the outside of the bearings to the wheel, and the inside of the bearings fit on the shaft as it should, you should not have significant up-and-down (or side-to-side) play, especially if you go the extra mile and get your end-play into specifications.
I think if you're still finding up-and-down play in the completed assembly you need to check the fit of the spindle to the axle. I'm not aware of any clearance specification for that fitment. The wide-frame and 82 series spindle is designed to "bolt to itself" so-to-speak and is allowed to rotate in the axle's bore and even to slide up-and-down a bit, especially as the axle's weight-bearing surface wears slightly on the bottom over time. If you find movement at the spindle, and you don't like it, you can disassemble the spindle from the axle and grind down the cylindrical spacer to control the up-and-down slip. You need to be careful though, too much grinding will not leave enough room for the spindle to rotate in the axle's bore. And worse, if you leave the spindle bolted loosely and not locked down on the spacer securely, the spindle will start turning on the bolt itself which will quickly wear away the bolt, the spacer, and wallow out the bolt hole in the spindle. As wear progresses the wheels lose their positive camber, even going negative, your steering gets very loose with the increased slop, and you may wind up having to rebuild or even replace the spindles.
That said, a little up-and-down on the spindle in the axle won't hurt anything in my opinion and leaves the grease somewhere to go.
Brian, if you fit the outside of the bearings to the wheel, and the inside of the bearings fit on the shaft as it should, you should not have significant up-and-down (or side-to-side) play, especially if you go the extra mile and get your end-play into specifications.
I think if you're still finding up-and-down play in the completed assembly you need to check the fit of the spindle to the axle. I'm not aware of any clearance specification for that fitment. The wide-frame and 82 series spindle is designed to "bolt to itself" so-to-speak and is allowed to rotate in the axle's bore and even to slide up-and-down a bit, especially as the axle's weight-bearing surface wears slightly on the bottom over time. If you find movement at the spindle, and you don't like it, you can disassemble the spindle from the axle and grind down the cylindrical spacer to control the up-and-down slip. You need to be careful though, too much grinding will not leave enough room for the spindle to rotate in the axle's bore. And worse, if you leave the spindle bolted loosely and not locked down on the spacer securely, the spindle will start turning on the bolt itself which will quickly wear away the bolt, the spacer, and wallow out the bolt hole in the spindle. As wear progresses the wheels lose their positive camber, even going negative, your steering gets very loose with the increased slop, and you may wind up having to rebuild or even replace the spindles.
That said, a little up-and-down on the spindle in the axle won't hurt anything in my opinion and leaves the grease somewhere to go.
hydroharry
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Jeremiah - getting a feeler gauge into that area of the wheel behind the washer just seemed difficult to me - especially on the WF wheels which have the narrow offset to the outside. And as for removing 2 of the 1/64' shims, I don't agree. The spec is "maximum 1/32" end play so if I add shims until the wheel doesn't rotate then remove 1 shim and it rotates the end play will be less than the max spec.
And I should also add, every tractor I picked up required shims to be added. I think the end play was something just not paid attention to by most everyone and the leading cause of the wheel bearing failure. I've seen some really terrible spindles - they were chewed up by a bearing that splipped out of wheel because of to much end play and chocked themselves at an angle and then cut a very nice slice into the spindle. Just terrible to see that.
And I should also add, every tractor I picked up required shims to be added. I think the end play was something just not paid attention to by most everyone and the leading cause of the wheel bearing failure. I've seen some really terrible spindles - they were chewed up by a bearing that splipped out of wheel because of to much end play and chocked themselves at an angle and then cut a very nice slice into the spindle. Just terrible to see that.
jchamberlin
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Harry: Point taken.
Allison C., WELCOME!
nbextermueller
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Hey guys, I was wondering when IH made the switch from cast to aluminum on the Q/L gril. I'm looking for an Alum one for my brother.
Thanks guys
Thanks guys
hydroharry
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Nic - here's my WAG - Aug 2, 1978
Someone on here has the actual date. I believe it's published in one of the Cub Cadet books. That aluminum sure lightens up the front end. If you're running a gear drive you can easily pop wheelies if you don't have any attachments under the belly - and probably really easily if you're running rear attachments.
Lets be careful out there.
Someone on here has the actual date. I believe it's published in one of the Cub Cadet books. That aluminum sure lightens up the front end. If you're running a gear drive you can easily pop wheelies if you don't have any attachments under the belly - and probably really easily if you're running rear attachments.
Lets be careful out there.
snicklas
Well-known member
Nic,
When we had the "Quietline Run Difference" discussion a few weeks back, we had talked about the cast iron to cast aluminum changeover on the grill casting, and also the rear axle "bugles" (as I call them). Our consensus was cost. Aluminum is cheaper to cast, and is a less expensive alloy. Also, it is lighter, so each Cub weighed less. If I remember right, in the spec sheets between an early (1975ish) vs a late (1979ish) Quietline, there was 70 or 80 pounds difference in the spec'd curb weight. In the grand scheme of things, if IH could shave 50 or 60 pounds off of each of the thousands of Cub Cadets they shipped, it would cost them less money, because as we all know, transportation companies charge you by the pound. Then, look at the next generation, the 82 series. They were completely redesigned again, had less body parts, I can't confirm it, but I think the sheet metal they made the hood and side panels with was thinner than the earlier Cubs. They eliminated the huge castings for the grill, with a single, lighter grill housing. They were looking to save money, and turn a bigger profit, unfortunately a quick and easy way to make something cheaper is use less expensive stuff to build it........
I know it is apples to oranges, but look at all the IH Cubs, they were 600-800+ lbs, the new MTD CC's are what 300-400 lbs?
EDIT: OOPS, I misread your original question, I thought it said why, not when...... sorry.
When we had the "Quietline Run Difference" discussion a few weeks back, we had talked about the cast iron to cast aluminum changeover on the grill casting, and also the rear axle "bugles" (as I call them). Our consensus was cost. Aluminum is cheaper to cast, and is a less expensive alloy. Also, it is lighter, so each Cub weighed less. If I remember right, in the spec sheets between an early (1975ish) vs a late (1979ish) Quietline, there was 70 or 80 pounds difference in the spec'd curb weight. In the grand scheme of things, if IH could shave 50 or 60 pounds off of each of the thousands of Cub Cadets they shipped, it would cost them less money, because as we all know, transportation companies charge you by the pound. Then, look at the next generation, the 82 series. They were completely redesigned again, had less body parts, I can't confirm it, but I think the sheet metal they made the hood and side panels with was thinner than the earlier Cubs. They eliminated the huge castings for the grill, with a single, lighter grill housing. They were looking to save money, and turn a bigger profit, unfortunately a quick and easy way to make something cheaper is use less expensive stuff to build it........
I know it is apples to oranges, but look at all the IH Cubs, they were 600-800+ lbs, the new MTD CC's are what 300-400 lbs?
EDIT: OOPS, I misread your original question, I thought it said why, not when...... sorry.
I have a 1000 that was made in 8/77. It has an aluminum grille. I have a 1450 that was made in 1/75. It has a cast iron grille.
Harry, what source said the switch to aluminum was 8/78?
Harry, what source said the switch to aluminum was 8/78?
kostendorf
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I have a 1650 that was made in 6/77.It did have aluminum till I changed it with a cast iron.
snicklas
Well-known member
I don't have all the build dates handy for our Quietlines, however, we have 3. 2 1650's and a 1450.
2 of the 3 are mine, a 1650 - Jan 1978 and a 1450 - Dec 1977. Both of these have the aluminum grill.
The 3rd one, a 1650 is Dad's and it has a cast iron grill.
One other observation, Both of mine also have the 82 series style steering wheel with the smaller triangular center insert, and have internal brakes. Dad's has the wideframe steering wheel with the tin insert and external disk brakes like the wideframes. His also has the bushings in the frame for the top rockshaft on the rear 3 point hitch. Both of mine use the Frankenstein bolts for the 3 point hitch......
2 of the 3 are mine, a 1650 - Jan 1978 and a 1450 - Dec 1977. Both of these have the aluminum grill.
The 3rd one, a 1650 is Dad's and it has a cast iron grill.
One other observation, Both of mine also have the 82 series style steering wheel with the smaller triangular center insert, and have internal brakes. Dad's has the wideframe steering wheel with the tin insert and external disk brakes like the wideframes. His also has the bushings in the frame for the top rockshaft on the rear 3 point hitch. Both of mine use the Frankenstein bolts for the 3 point hitch......
jbaker
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answer to your grill question...item h in the QL sreis
https://www.ihcubcadet.com/forum/messages/22744/256758.html?1365370109
https://www.ihcubcadet.com/forum/messages/22744/256758.html?1365370109
hydroharry
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Bob - WAG is wild a_ _ guess. I just took a shot in the dark since my '78 Model 1450 had the cast aluminum lower grill housing and the cast aluminum axle carriers. But there were discussions on here before and reference to one of the history of Cub Cadet Books (I believe written by Ken Updike).
ok, on the pto handles
this is the new 147 I got
this is my 107, also identical to my other 2 147's (including another slightly older '71)
and this is my 128
now again my question is..on the 147..is that original and being a later made tractor..perhaps they changed the design a little before going to the wideframes or was it changed out by a previous owner?
this is the new 147 I got
this is my 107, also identical to my other 2 147's (including another slightly older '71)
and this is my 128
now again my question is..on the 147..is that original and being a later made tractor..perhaps they changed the design a little before going to the wideframes or was it changed out by a previous owner?
