Archive through July 26, 2009

[pbell]

Robert C.
No. Starting in Nov 1966, the Monthly Serial Number/production reports started listing the beginning serial number for the month, of both the chassis S/N and the engine S/N, but the engine numbers do not always fall in sequence. Example: the 1st engine number for Mar 1967 was C159281, but the 1st number for April 1967 was C21738. The 1st number for July was higher than the 1st number for Aug, Sep and Oct. The engines were bought from Kohler, and were used in what ever order they came in the back door at the Louisville Plant. There was no attempt to match engine S/N to the chassis number, even on the farm tractors built at Louisville and probably the other plants. I don't know of a way to determine the build date of the early engines, the only published Kohler engine dating codes I am aware of start with the year 1965.

 

[dclinansmith]

I haven't heard anyone complain yet about the headlights vibrating on QL tractors. I got tired of my three 1650's doing it so I decided to try and stop it. I tried a couple ways that didn't work so I tried a piece of 1/2"x 1/2" aluminum angle from Lowes. I put the angle on the top inside of the grill screen and held it in place with 3 soft 1/8" rivets one on each end and one in the center. My tractors don't usually see severe duty but so far the mod seems to be holding up. I may have problems later but so far so good. Each piece of angle will do two tractors. I contoured the vertical edge of the angle to match the headlight holes.

 

[towens]

Guys I need some help. I have a Model 73 Cub and when I try to start it will turn about 2 revolutions then quit, if i let off the key and try again it will turn another 2 revolutions and quit. I don't know if it is the S/G or something else. Any feedback is greatly appreciated.

 

[aschumacher]

Cory, I'm not an expert on this stuff but the first things your gonna hear is, charged battery?
Second clean(sandpaper) all the ground connections you can find. A bad ground will eat you alive if your not aware of it.
Actually any dirty connector is bad, but ground (-) wires seem to give the most grief.

 

[dleslie]

Guys - I need some ideas - I'm trying to remove my rusted on muffler/connecting pipe. I've sprayed on a ton of Kroil, and used an extension to my pipe wrench, but the pipe wrench is turning before the pipe turns. Haven't used any heat yet (frankly I'd prefer not to with the gas tank etc so close), any other ideas? I need to push the engine forward for clutch replace. Thanks
David

 

[aaytay]

David-
Mufflers can be a pain to remove. I'd recommend using heat as your next option.

All-
I picked up a Sand-Trap-Rake at Red Power this year. It's missing a few pieces, which are NLA....

If you have one, or know of someone who has one of these, please email me, as I am in need of a few measurements so that I can make the missing parts.

 

[rpalmer]

David Leslie,

To add heat.. if it's still possible, is to run the engine.

 

[wshytle]

OK Guys, Does the bushing in a 3 pin clutch pulley have to be pressed out or can I drive it out with a same size type tool (deep socket, etc.)? This is a first for me. I've just pulled the engine a second time so I'm learning what to have perfect before putting the ole engine back in.

 

[aaytay]

Wayne-
I've used a correctly sized socket and the "hub" set on the open jaws of a bench-vice. That seems to work for me...

 

[rchristensen]

David C. I know what you are talking about, the headlight mount rattling drove me crazy too. I did some thing similar to what you did.

I used a piece of 1 inch wide aluminum cut to the length of the headlight mount and then set it against the lip of the headlight mount and drilled and taped a 10/32 screw in the top of the hood.

 

[rwilke]

Richard C.,

With the vibration and not-that-smooth of a ride that these Cubs provide,
do you have to change the headlight bulbs very often due to the filaments being shaken to the breaking point?

Just Curious,,,,,,, Ryan W

 

[rchristensen]

Ryan Those are the original bulbs in that 1450. I've never had one go bad. I think I had one on a wide frame cub that I had to re-solder the connector on. I have purchased a cub with a bad bulb, so I know they can go bad. Maybe the dry climate here in AZ. has something to do with it.

 

[shollis]

David Leslie,

I posted just a couple of days ago about my success with "CRC Freeze-Off Super Penetrant" It worked on a speed control lever that I had fought for days (weeks). You might give it a try.

 

[tkeefe]

Charlie, do we still have access to your site for manuals and does anyone have a link to it as I am on a different computer and don't have the bookmark?

 

[stanner]

Tim,
http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/

 

[tkeefe]

Scott,
thanks but it won't let me on the site. I tried it the other day on my other computer and it did the same thing. Maybe Charlie is working on the servers again or something.

 

[digger]

In my best Clint Eastwood voice.

Nag,Nag,Nag

It's fixed now.

 

[tkeefe]

Thanks Charlie your the bestest.

 

[stanner]

Tim, Works for me...

Perhaps we helped Charlie "Make my day"

OR,
To keep it on topic (kind of)
From the latest movie, "Get off my lawn" (click-click)

 

[dfrisk]

DAVID - Not sure which connection Your trying to loosen but there's not much to the exh. system on a CC 100. Try tapping the stuck pipe fitting a bit with a small hammer, then with Your pipe wrench try tightening it just a bit then try loosening. You will probably end up having to alternate tightening & loosening to get the pipe fitting out, After every time the pipe fitting moves spray more KROIL on. If You want to use heat, do like Richard says & run the engine. And when the pipe fitting is HOT use a small candle and try to get melted wax into the threads. It's a much better lubricant than Kroil, WD-40, etc.