Archive through July 24, 2017

[jparsons]

I shaved just a little bit off the end of the nub of the fiber wear button. This allowed me to get it started in the hole. I brought the rockarm slowly forward until the wear button rested on the clutch button. Then slowly tightened the turnbuckle. The wear button easily slid completely into the hole as I tightened. I've tested the cub and the clutch is working great now.

Thanks for the information. This forum has helped me every time I get stuck. I do appreciate your time and sharing of knowledge.

 

[hydroharry]

Well I'll be danged - I thought Charlie would selling a bronze button for sure.

John - there is a spec in the Service Manual for adjusting the turn buckle to set the gap space between the steel button and the fiber button when the PTO Clutch is "engaged". Don't recall what it is off hand but basically a sliver. If you don't have this space and the fiber is against the steel with the clutch engaged, it will wear the button down pretty quick.

 

[mgwin]

Harry,

The pin is not OEM, but fit perfectly.
The hole for the coiled spring pin was already there, just not at the end where it should be.

It must be the picture, because it only sticks out less than 1/2 inch. (0.478" to be exact)
After everything is installed, you would have to get on your knees to see it.

I figured I might as well use it since I already had it. That's cheaper than buying one!

 

[sblunier]

If that was a tractor with QA front attachment points you would need to trim that pin.......the QA latching bar/idler pivot shaft runs very close to the axle bolster......

 

[danderson]

Harry- Charlie has both. Buyer's choice.

 

[wshytle]

John P-

I learned years ago to trim the stem on the wear button and just glue it in. When the time comes to replace it again just knock out the stem, sand the dried glue, and glue another one in place. This all started when I broke a stem and didn't have another button but I had glue. I got a small c-clamp and clamped the wear button in place...worked out fine.

.

 

[hydroharry]

Doug - yes I know Charlie had both styles. If he didn't sell the fiber style we wouldn't have as much to talk about either

Wayne - I really don't see a need to glue it in. When the clutch is engaged there is only a slight (sliver) gap and I don't think that button is gonna vibrate forward and rub on the steel button. Is there some other reason for the glue I'm missing?

Marty - is there a little recessed cavity area in your on hand/already installed pin for grease storage?

 

[mgwin]

Harry,

No, it's just like the original pin, only not rusted.

I will lightly grease it when I permanently install it.
It will reside in my basement which is climate controlled with a humidity of 40 percent or less.

 

[wshytle]

Hydro-

The reason I use glue is it makes the job short, simple, and done. I've broken several button stems and just got tired of messing with them so I sand them down to an easy slide-in fit and glue it. The pto mechanism/handle makes a good clamp too.

.

 

[fcurrier]

 

[dschwandt]

Anyone have a pic of the proper wire harness routing on the right side from the battery shelf to the blower housing , S/G and beyond?

My 100 has lights, but they are wired separately and piggy backed onto the main harness like they were added after it was built.

Heading for Macon, MO in a couple hours w/5 Cubs, all w/attachments.

 

[kmcconaughey]

David, there are photos in the Operator's Manual in the section on the electrical system (pages 21 and 22 [EDIT: Pages 21 and 22 of the manual which are pages 26 and 27 of the PDF file.]) that should show you how the wiring should be routed. Also, I'll see what I can dig up in my archives.

 

[kmcconaughey]

David, this photo from a 70/100 brochure shows the wire harness routing for the wires leading to the voltage regulator and headlights. Note after the harness makes the connections to the S/G it then drops down between the S/G and engine into the frame and runs along the right side of the engine and comes out as shown in the photo below and runs up the right side of the grill.

 

[mgwin]

Kraig,

Wow!
They sure did make that cub yellow!
Even the rims are yellow.

Wonder if the headlights are yellow?

I'm sure they added the color to the brochure, and not the actual tractor.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Marty, yep. Makes it look like an industrial Cub.

Sure is quiet today...

 

[hydroharry]

Kraig - how come the dang blang muffler and exhaust pipe are grey?

But the real question is "how come the grill housing is leaning at a 45 degree angle? (And don't tell me cause the mounting bolts are removed).

 

[mhomrighausen]

Harry B.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Hydro, you forgot to mention that the grill screen is grey as well... I don't think the grill is actually at 45 degrees.

Regardless, I think you already answered your own question, the mounting bolts were removed. Here's the caption that goes with the photo.

 

[sblunier]

Back in the 60's and 70's, before computer graphics, IH's advertising department took great liberties with the air brush on negatives to colorize and update photos.

Lots of white cab 66 series became red cab due to the editing dept!

MOD Edit to correct cell phone auto correct typo. Changed "can" to "cab" x2.

 

[lkortkamp]

I'm betting the picture was doctored up for better appearance in the book. They leaned the front end out to allow better visual on the details they were discussing in the photo. Kinda like a "cutaway view".