Archive through July 22, 2014

[jchamberlin]

Kraig: The bolts secure a piece of flat bar to the underside of the frame rails:

Right-hand Rail (Side View):

Left-hand Rail (Side View):

 

[hydroharry]

Geez, isn't a memory a wonderful thing.

Paul, et al - based on the Jeremiah's seat it sure looks like your seat is the real deal. I didn't recall the slots in the rubber cover.
You know, it's hard to beat ole Tom "Slick" Hoffman. I suspect he may be correct about the ole "Switcheraroo". Not sure quite how it was done. Yours has the square center mounting bolt hole, and it looks like Jeremiah's has a round center hole so that might be a give away difference that yours could well be an IH option. Also, I see Jeremiah's has an additional metal brace with slots for 4 mounting bolts. I wonder is Jeremiah's is just "rusted on" to the original seat brace.

Jeff - back at ya (with hit and miss timing) -

(Under edit) - geez, I leave for a couple minutes to get popcorn for Jeff, and the posted messages start flying onto the list.

Jeremiah - someone has modified your frame, probably a puller. I think the cracks in your frame rails most often occur from popping wheelies which the pullers are always doing. It does look like someone has done a nice job of adding them. If you're gonna weld up the cracks in the original rails I think I would just removed the additional flat stock that's been added.

 

[hydroharry]

Jeremiah, hmmm, that's odd. A PO repair of the front frame/axle channel.

Steve, no sign of the rubber seat as an option in any of the accessory catalogs that I have. You're probably thinking of the fancy upholstered seat.

 

[jchamberlin]

Kraig, Harry: I wondered if the flat bar was original, I guess not, eh? The next question is how the axle channel is secured to the flat bar, it would have to be welded, wouldn't it? I'll have to take a look at the bottom side in the next few days.

Harry: Do you think simply stick welding the cracks in the channel and discarding the flat bar is going to be sufficient for standard use, plowing, mowing, etc.? If the repair is a good one, perhaps I'll just leave well enough alone.

Thanks everyone for the clarification on the seat. Since I saw 124/125s depicted with the foam rubber seat and the 102 shown with the hard rubber, I thought the hard rubber was "correct" for the 122, I didn't realize there were different seats specified for different models within the same series, except for the low-tunnel 70/71/72 etc. Once more the Forum has set me straight. Thanks guys.

Edit: Harry, I would still like to see a closeup of a known-to-be original 102 seat install as I think mine was an after-market selection. From the side shots of 102s I've seen, it looks like the "platform" was a bit more raised than mine and painted yellow, not black. I haven't seen any spring-mounted hard rubber seats, so, with Kraig, I find its placement on a 72 "unusual."

 

[kmcconaughey]

Seats.

122 (EDIT: I believe the later production 122s had end panels on the seat mount to make it into a tool box of sorts I know the 1x4/5 series had the end plates...):

Several 102:

 

[kmcconaughey]

Here's the seat on the 102 that I used to own. It appears to match the mount of the one that Jeremiah has, look close at the bottom of the photo where you can see a bit of the seat mount.

 

[hjackson]

Hi all, new here. I have a LTS125 that runs like a champ. Used it for many years, I bought it used I think 12 years ago. I have never (embarrassingly) even done regular maintenance to it. Jump on fire up and mow. Neglected it for the most part. Anyway I struck a post with my tire and broke a piece off the sterring control arm. I cant seem to find any info on this machine and now it looks like a great white buffalo of a mystery. Any advice where I can find a parts manual? Thanks.

 

[hydroharry]

Jeremiah - ya know, I think you're gonna have to leave those flat bars where they are. I see now you have an area on the very front of the frame that is broken off and if you take the bars out you won't have a front hole to mount the front casting. I'm not knowledgeable in the different welding methods but I would still weld those cracks in the frame and they need to be ground down smooth. Which ever method allows that is what you need to do. I think I'd also do something about that very front area that has the piece broken off. Either weld in a piece of metal so there is no issue when mounting the cast piece.

I think the verdict on the spring mounted rubber seat on the 72 might still be out (Tom Hoffman - don't start counting chickens yet).

 

[dfrisk]

HARRY - Actually, any welding method, arc or stick, MIG, TIG, even gas welding with acetylene torch would work.

The procedure is more important than the process. Small holes should be drilled at the ends of the cracks so they tend not to grow longer, complete penetration, welding from both sides is a good idea too. Use of a copper welding backup plate is recommended.

If I'd have made a comment about tractor pullers popping wheelie's I'd have had a half dozen pullers screaming at me.... but I think it looks like someone ran that CC with the engine loose, the four mounting bolts about ready to fall out. The holes in the frame for the grill normally break out when the grill casting is used for a battering ram or bumper.

Tractor appears to have a nice fresh paint job trying to cover up the damage done by neglect.

 

[jbaker]

Howard Welcome,,

Your tractor is a lawn tractor and should move over to the thread.
https://www.ihcubcadet.com/forum/messages/32806/32806.html?1405958228

With that said I have never seen a LTS125..cool looking

 

[jsosbe]

Anyone know what size belt a bb-36 snow blower would use?

 

[stanner]

Jason,
the faq's is your friend, as well as the parts lookup-

FAQ #4
http://cubfaq.com/questions.html

http://cubfaq.com/belts3.html

IH-475595-R1

google the p/n, and it it a 1/2" x 27" belt

 

[kmcconaughey]

Howard, WELCOME!

Your LTS 125 is actually an MTD, and may have been built for the Canadian market. There is a thread started in the "CCC and MTD Machines & Equipment" area. here's a link to it: LTS 125

 

[jsosbe]

Thank you. Still learning my way around here.

 

[wshytle]

Jeremiah-

Like Dennis said, the type of welding used isn't as important as the job itself. I'd leave those bars in there since they've been fitted, etc. If you lived a little closer I'd be glad to "glue" it up for you. The cracks need to be ground as deep as possible and drilled at the ends (again, Dennis) and then welded with good penetration. Then you can grind them down flat so no welds are in the way.

 

[jbaker]

Wayne good to see your post, now if Don T would end his vacation we could get some Canadian input.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Here is Clarence's (102) seat fom the rear. One of these days, I need to get him up and running again. His is an original seat.

 

[jbaker]

I like the pointy thing on Clarence's backside

 

[mgwin]

The rubber seat I fixed up for dad's 122 is not real hard. It is pretty flexible. I took some bleach and cleaned the rubber, sanded and painted the metal bracing and metal band. This seat comes apart when you take the metal band off of it.
I have just purchased a fiberglass seat (politically correct one) that will need a lot of repair before it can be used.

 

[mgwin]

The archive bug will probably hit about now.
Here are some pics of what followed me home during my road trip.

Top view of that doohickey thingy hanging on the side.

There were some other things that came along too.