My point Dr. Watson (TG Wilie), is that one must focus on the frame to discern whether the tractor may be a Quiet Line or a 1x9 unit. The engine or tires or somewhat cosmetic accoutrements like the upper and lower grill housings, the hood or even the dash could possibly have been changed to give a false appearance of the more modern machine. So a quick optical inspection of the frame will provide the true identity, which in the case at hand is then clearly identified as a Quiet Line. As for the front tire size you question, I may venture a guess of 18x8.5x8 as would normally equip a Super Garden model. I do believe their use on a less than Super model would result in conflict and interference however their aeration may provide a more buoyant bucket for the ultimate dumping venture. So you see my dear Dr. Watson, passing glances are most inappropriate for our Forum discussions, least we pass falsehoods to our members.
does anyone know how to remove the cogged pulleys on an original deck. I have a cogged pulley that seems to be bent out of shape and the belt will become very tight then loosen up as it revolves around the pulley. Can it be popped off and replaced with out getting into the bearings ?
Does anybody know what the OEM front tire tread style is supposed to be? What tread style is the other 102 owners running on the front wheels? I currently have the tread style thats used on wheel barrows and dump carts thats on a 8in rim. Trying to keep it OEM.
DAVID - Every new CC I saw back in the time span when 102's were new, if they had 4.00/4.80X8's they had Good Year tires with 4 small ribs down the center with a diamond pattern along each side. If the tractor had 16-6.50X8's, they had 5-6 smooth grooves evenly spaced all the way across the tire.
GY no longer makes either of those tires anymore. There may be new old stock floating around but I wouldn't count on it. There are tires made that look similar to the factory tires IH used on CC's, you'll just have to check the various tire MFG's websites and tire dealer's websites.
I bought new front tires for the 1250 Nightmare today. Both original ribbed tires were worn so bad to the outside that the cords were showing, so I thought it was time. I replaced the original Goodyears with a LandPro rib, similar, in appearance, to the original tires.
With the tire wear as it is, the toe-in is most definately off. The book recommends 1/8" greater measurement to the rear than the front of the tire. How can I be sure that when I start the process of measurement, that the front wheels are perfectly straight to the tractor track? Is there a standard length for the tie rod with the ball joint ends? Is air pressure in the tire a concern? (book recommendation is 12 psi) I will be replacing the ball joint ends when I adjust the tie rod for toe-in.
I wish I would have paid more attention when dad was aligning front ends.
BRIAN - Yes, new ball joints are a must on an older CC to set and hold toe-in. A Heim joint works even better and only costs a buck or two more each at McMaster-Carr.
Just drive the tractor forward a few feet to make sure your frt wheels are facing straight forward, then measure to the fattest part of the tire sidewall half way up from the ground at both the frt & back of the tire, roughly 7-8 inches off the ground. Adjust the tierods connecting both frt tires until the front measurement is 1/8 inch less than the rear measurement.
That 1/8" freaks me out! When you compound the wear in the steering gear units (including wheel bearings) I think it's an impossibility.
That being said, I "wore out" a tie rod end today. Had a used replacement but now ready to spring for these:
So, Mr. CCSpecialties, I see you sell these in pairs so I have a question: Would a third one work on the rod from the steering box to the steering spindle and if so, can I buy 1&1/2 pairs?
I have the 4.00/4.80X8's on the front. Im thinking on the sawtooth tread thats used on landscape type trailers etc. If I had 2nd tread pattern to pick from it would be the stud tread. Whatever tires I get will have inner tubes installed also so the tires last longer.
FRANK - The steering gear has absolutely nothing to do with toe-in. Just the left & right spindles, and the tie rod connecting the two spindles. Your wheel bearings are worn out if you have 1/8th inch play in them.
And just in case somebody asks, yes, by adjusting the steering rod from the gearbox to the left spindle you can adjust whether your CC turns shorter to the left or to the right. Or drill another hole on the steering arm 3/8" closer to the spindle and turn as tight as the stops cast into the frt axle will allow BOTH ways.
I'm not sure I'd get those "greaseable" heim joints like you posted the picture of. Grease attracts a lot of dirt which would accelerate wear in dusty conditions. The ungreasable ones I installed back in 1985 on the 72 are still as tight as the day I installed them.
Dennis: Point well taken (grease attracting dirt). So much to learn, so little time! Mowed between showers today and still not ready to quit putting money into Andy. (Actually looking for more ways to do it while he's being nice and I can). It's being a weird summer, both Cub Cadet wise and otherwise. I'm putting most of my time/effort/money into the 169 (the others must be very jealous). Every CC here has a sentimental story behind it but I've learned that sentiment can get expensive and now I'm ready to "thin the herd" (and that's not a veiled for sale ad, it's a statement of fact). Now I gotta go spend some money! (Jeanne says "go for it").