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Archive through July 20, 2012
- Thread starter dross
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2006
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- Allen Schumacher
George, as Tom mentioned it could still be the carb, but, if you physically rock it and it screws up maybe you got a wire thats broken in the insulation or at a terminal or ???. Just an additional idea.
My 1250 nightmare continues. I installed the engine today. The engine cradle ISO mounts are moderately compressed at 85 inch-pounds of torque. When I finally got the engine started, I noticed that it had considerable vibration. The engine was considerably quieter, but really shook a lot.
A previous post suggested that the mounts at 85 inch-pounds of torque is too much pressure on them. I suppose I could back off each ISO mount bolt one turn, to see if the vibration gets a little better, I don't know. I am just trying to do the best job that I can with this mess, and I appreciate all the support given here.
Now I have encountered a problem of intermittent starting. The Hydro lever is in neutral, the brake is depressed, the throttle is open and nothing. Then, after trying several times, the engine starts. It never did this prior to my changing the ISO mounts and fixing the steering. The only thing I can think of is that the brake safety switch had bent contacts and I straightened them when I was under the tractor. I guess I'll start there.
One thing is certain. I will never, ever pull the engine from this tractor again; nor will I ever, ever remove the front axle. I will send the tractor to the scrapper first. This experience has been enough.
A previous post suggested that the mounts at 85 inch-pounds of torque is too much pressure on them. I suppose I could back off each ISO mount bolt one turn, to see if the vibration gets a little better, I don't know. I am just trying to do the best job that I can with this mess, and I appreciate all the support given here.
Now I have encountered a problem of intermittent starting. The Hydro lever is in neutral, the brake is depressed, the throttle is open and nothing. Then, after trying several times, the engine starts. It never did this prior to my changing the ISO mounts and fixing the steering. The only thing I can think of is that the brake safety switch had bent contacts and I straightened them when I was under the tractor. I guess I'll start there.
One thing is certain. I will never, ever pull the engine from this tractor again; nor will I ever, ever remove the front axle. I will send the tractor to the scrapper first. This experience has been enough.
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,826
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Dave, Kriag,
I drew that wiring diagram to expalin to Bryan how I had wired my 149....he was using the concept on his cab.
He also had added the halogen versions of the 4411 bulbs and had 4 or 6 of them on there....pulling lots of amps!!!!
BTW,
You can easily make a std turn signal flasher flash the taillights and can control when they flash by adding a parallel feed controlled by a second switch (or switch position, like on the diagram)....if you place the flasher in parallel with a solid wire the flasher is effectively "by-passed" and the tail lights will stay on all of the time.
I drew that wiring diagram to expalin to Bryan how I had wired my 149....he was using the concept on his cab.
He also had added the halogen versions of the 4411 bulbs and had 4 or 6 of them on there....pulling lots of amps!!!!
BTW,
You can easily make a std turn signal flasher flash the taillights and can control when they flash by adding a parallel feed controlled by a second switch (or switch position, like on the diagram)....if you place the flasher in parallel with a solid wire the flasher is effectively "by-passed" and the tail lights will stay on all of the time.
wsdrake
Well-known member
Hi all, i've been working on my 108, and i discovered it needs a voltage regulator. Can i continue to use it without hurting anything, or will it only hurt it more? Can't really afford a new one with it being $100 from cub. Thanks for the advice.
mhomrighausen
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- Sep 20, 2001
- Messages
- 3,133
- displayname
- Marlin Homrighausen
Brian W. With your new isomounts causing the tractor to shake something terrible.... OKay... Mine did that too on the Keepsake 1650. DON'T KEEP FRETTING. Run the tractor about fifteen of so minutes and then let it sit for awhile. Start it up and drive it around for as long as your botom can stand the vibration. Again run the tractor at least fiteen to twenty minutes. You need to let those isomounts "break themselves in". I call that initial startup virbration a "Strippers Delight". The more that you run the tractor the more the ismounts get seated and the vibration will settle down considerably.
Off to work today. Already it is miserable outside. Everyone take care and stay safe and cool.
Off to work today. Already it is miserable outside. Everyone take care and stay safe and cool.
rbedell
Well-known member
Norm:
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
I would like someone to tell me the function of the snubber in the ISO mount. My snubber doesn't sit parallel to the frame, but angled per the drawing. Is something wrong?<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
The snubbers are not installed correctly.
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
I would like someone to tell me the function of the snubber in the ISO mount. My snubber doesn't sit parallel to the frame, but angled per the drawing. Is something wrong?<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
The snubbers are not installed correctly.
jdiederichs
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- Nov 9, 2004
- Messages
- 659
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- Jim Diederichs
The purpose of the snubbers is to ease the shock load when the electric PTO clutch is engaged.
Marlin is correct, the new iso-mounts need that sort of break in to seat everything properly. I guess someone should have mentioned that when you were considering the upgrade, sorry!
Remember that working on a CC should be a fun challenge, not a PITA. That frustration level will drop considerably once you see the results of your work come to fruition. Those mounts will soon be fine.
Marlin is correct, the new iso-mounts need that sort of break in to seat everything properly. I guess someone should have mentioned that when you were considering the upgrade, sorry!
Remember that working on a CC should be a fun challenge, not a PITA. That frustration level will drop considerably once you see the results of your work come to fruition. Those mounts will soon be fine.
hydroharry
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- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,377
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Norm and Roland - I don't know of a way to install snubbers incorrectly, except having sufficient gap, and that's not really a big deal. I suspect that if the snubbers are at the angle in the drawing then it seems to me the ISO-bars are most likely angled themselves, which very likely means the ISO-mounts are shot.
Brian W - install a jumper on that brake switch for now and see if that resolves the starting problem, then give that tractor some seat time. The engines in Quiet Line tractors will always have some shaking vibration. ISO-mounts don't eliminate vibration. They actually allow the engine to shake/vibrate some, but help eliminate feeling it in the tractor - so you'll see the engine moving side to side but the tractor itself should not be shaking side to side. It's hard to describe how much it should be shaking. See how it is after the seat time as suggested.
Brian W - install a jumper on that brake switch for now and see if that resolves the starting problem, then give that tractor some seat time. The engines in Quiet Line tractors will always have some shaking vibration. ISO-mounts don't eliminate vibration. They actually allow the engine to shake/vibrate some, but help eliminate feeling it in the tractor - so you'll see the engine moving side to side but the tractor itself should not be shaking side to side. It's hard to describe how much it should be shaking. See how it is after the seat time as suggested.
Billy D, check the sponsors above, they have them cheaper.
Harry,
Thank you, Harry, for the advice. When I was under the tractor, I did notice that the plug holding the wires to the brake safety switch were bent, as if something had bumped the plug. I straightened the plug, and I was thinking that could be part of the problem. Thanks for reinforcing it; the jumper wire was my first thought as well.
It never dawned on me that the ISO mounts need some time to wear in. It makes a lot of sense. Seat time would be nice. That was part of the reason I bought the thing. (Although I am getting extreme pressure to become the proud owner of a new 2100.) I'll try this. I have some painting to do on the tractor this week, and it is due to be in a parade on Saturday, July 28. Let's hope it is ready to go. Once again, thank you for your insight.
Norm,
The snubbers are to be located in the very front of the engine mounts, ahead of the front ISO mount. There is a 1/4" hole to accommodate the threaded stem on the snubber. The snubber should be located in the most forward corner of the tractor frame. It should be a vertical mount. Be sure to refer to the Quietline service manual for the proper clearances and and placement. Be sure to replace your ISO mounts too. I hope you don't have the with them that I did!
Thank you, Harry, for the advice. When I was under the tractor, I did notice that the plug holding the wires to the brake safety switch were bent, as if something had bumped the plug. I straightened the plug, and I was thinking that could be part of the problem. Thanks for reinforcing it; the jumper wire was my first thought as well.
It never dawned on me that the ISO mounts need some time to wear in. It makes a lot of sense. Seat time would be nice. That was part of the reason I bought the thing. (Although I am getting extreme pressure to become the proud owner of a new 2100.) I'll try this. I have some painting to do on the tractor this week, and it is due to be in a parade on Saturday, July 28. Let's hope it is ready to go. Once again, thank you for your insight.
Norm,
The snubbers are to be located in the very front of the engine mounts, ahead of the front ISO mount. There is a 1/4" hole to accommodate the threaded stem on the snubber. The snubber should be located in the most forward corner of the tractor frame. It should be a vertical mount. Be sure to refer to the Quietline service manual for the proper clearances and and placement. Be sure to replace your ISO mounts too. I hope you don't have the with them that I did!
Paul, Ryan, I am going to try and find the 303 Protectant as I have several tires that need the stuff on them, thanks for the help. Kraig, keep looking for the CJ2A they are out there - some definitely better than others. The one I have is definitely fun to drive - my wife really likes driving around in it.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Here's a picture for thought today...
This is some neoprene I bought 3 years ago to use for making some misc. gaskets on the 100 I restored. I brought it down today to make into a rear cover gasket and shifter gasket for my 582 that started leaking like a sieve after I removed the lower 3-point bracket so I could install the Cat-0 3-point I am building. I noticed the surface has oxidized or something...notice the shiny spots in the picture where I've rubbed it off. When you rub it off, it makes this debris similar to what's left after using a pencil eraser, and is probably perfect for clogging hydro filters. Now I'm questioning whether I want to make any gaskets out of this material any more. Since I'm only home for a couple days, I don't have time to order OEM gaskets, so my options are use this, get some traditional paper gasket material, or use some Permatex #2 Form-a-Gasket that I already have. Any thoughts? I figured we needed to get away from the iso-mount discussion for awhile...
This is some neoprene I bought 3 years ago to use for making some misc. gaskets on the 100 I restored. I brought it down today to make into a rear cover gasket and shifter gasket for my 582 that started leaking like a sieve after I removed the lower 3-point bracket so I could install the Cat-0 3-point I am building. I noticed the surface has oxidized or something...notice the shiny spots in the picture where I've rubbed it off. When you rub it off, it makes this debris similar to what's left after using a pencil eraser, and is probably perfect for clogging hydro filters. Now I'm questioning whether I want to make any gaskets out of this material any more. Since I'm only home for a couple days, I don't have time to order OEM gaskets, so my options are use this, get some traditional paper gasket material, or use some Permatex #2 Form-a-Gasket that I already have. Any thoughts? I figured we needed to get away from the iso-mount discussion for awhile...
wsdrake
Well-known member
Thanks Lucas, I appreciate the help. Take care.
rchristensen
Well-known member
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- Aug 12, 2006
- Messages
- 933
- displayname
- Richard Christensen
On the Snubber mounting on the rails on the Quietlines, there were at least two different types of rails used.
My 1450 is an early quietline and the rails flatten out in front of the front ISO mount. On latter Quietlines the rail follows the same contour as where the ISO mounts mount.
I suspect IH had a different supplier and they didn't follow the early design and they had to change the snubber design.
Here is a picture of the different snubbers and the part numbers I have, the numbers may be different now.
My 1450 is an early quietline and the rails flatten out in front of the front ISO mount. On latter Quietlines the rail follows the same contour as where the ISO mounts mount.
I suspect IH had a different supplier and they didn't follow the early design and they had to change the snubber design.
Here is a picture of the different snubbers and the part numbers I have, the numbers may be different now.
sandreassi
Member
- Joined
- Apr 7, 2012
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- 5
- displayname
- Silvio Andreassi
Anyone have a write up or a video on how to separate a hydro pump from the transmission on a 782? I think I have a leak from in between those two parts. Do I have to completely take the drive shaft out to do this? Should I just wait until the winter to tackle this? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.
