Archive through July 19, 2009

[sstanton]

Scott N. Thanks for the info it will make finding what I need to use the 1650 for something other than a sore topic with the wife or a daily driver! I guess it's time to build a garage!

Don, check the sponsers above. They sell whole decal kits and odds and ends decals for the other stuff. Fenders were optional and as long as they are the round fender it would be fine, you can also get them through the sponsers above. You can get a good steering column from Rich Patton, prices vary, it depends on what condition your looking for. He is a good guy and I have dealt with before a few times.

Belt sizes may also be in the FAQs or in Charlie's FAQ's, or you could search the archives.

 

[cnimmo]

Can anyone help me . I am trying to remove the drive-shaft on my 1450.So i can replace the cooling fan. I have all bolts out of the flex coupling on the rear and the taps off of the bolts next to the motor.Do i have to remove the motor or the rear end . to get the shaft out. Thanks for any help

 

[cmccall]

I'm still earning the format here so excuse me, not sure how to "quote"...however I did want to say that while it may be funny, I was communication with my utmost respect, and good behavior.. the prices are sky high.


"Clint,
I'm only on my first cup of coffee and I had to read that three times before it hit me -- TOO FUNNY!!
Ryan Wilke"}}

 

[cmccall]

Onan Elite 140 engine swap in my 1450 will be going forward soon, however I do have the option of using a B&S Vanguard V-Twin 18 HP, it looks to be a good bit more work, the side panels would not fit, or at least not without a lot of modification with the Vanguard, with the Onan the side panels would fit like OEM, or with very little mods. Just stuck on what to do, opinions, pointers are welcome...however the Kohler K321 is out, I can't afford to rebuild it, and I would not take the chance to sell either of these good motors on a chance that a Kohler K321 would be wore out when I got it, and once I get everything installed I think the option of having the electronic ignition ( I guess that's the correct term) no vibration (do away with the ISO mounts as well) and a quite engine would be great for me..

That doe snot mean in the future I will not pick up another Cub to fix back original as possible OEM style, unless updates/better materials deem it worth the change.

Clint

 

[podenbach]

Douglas Shaffer: Try a bearing separator on the bottom of steering wheel and then connect it to a two ended bolt puller pushing against the shaft. If you need a picture of that set up let me know. Lacquer thinner works good for me to soak a carb, smells good too.

 

[rrschmitt]

Cletus N,

You will need to remove the sproil roll pin through the driveshaft/coupler at the engine end to allow the shaft to slide fwd so the back end of the shaft can clear the rear coupler and be removed. A roll pin removal tool makes it much easier to remove the sproil pin.

Frank S,

Loosen your muffler clamp and rotate it 90-degrees to see if that will smooth out the bulge are where the leak is. An adjustable plumber pliers might be useful to help smooth it out as well. I had a simlar issue on my 149 and had to straighten the clamp and use the plumber pliers to work out the bulge and get the clamp to work properly. Your clamp looks ok though, mine had been overtighted and deformed by the PO so that it wouldn't clamp properly.

 

[cnimmo]

Thanks for the help.

 

[mnaglich]

Hi everyone! This will be my first post so I will start off with a easier question.

I have a 1450 that runs fairly well, except thats it started this year burning about a 1 pint of oil every 5 to 10 hours. Im planing to rebuild the engine in the up coming few months and a complete over haul of the tractor it self.

My question is on idle speed, According to the manual the idle speed should be around 1800 rpm. At 1800 rpm's the engine is very rough. At 2000 rpm's its smooth, at 1400 rpm its fairly smooth. Kohlers manual for the KS series recommends 1200RPM but refers to the application for correct setting. All of these RPM's are at warm engine operation. Does 1400 rpm sound to low?

Does anyone have an idea of why the engine would be rough at 1700-1800 rpms either at idle or as it accelerates through that range?

 

[jrdeno]

Hi!

New kid on the block. I have a model 149 that I've had for over thirty years and it just keeps going. My newest fix is that I need to know the thread size of the upper and lower hydralic hoses that go to the lift pump. I have a slow leak and it is making a mess of my engine. I plan on shopping for price tomorrow. Trying to avoid the $35,00 that I see on various web sites. Your thoughts? Thanks you.

 

[bnolte]

Mike N.
The reason for the rough engine at 1800 RPMs is a thing called harmonics. Everything on the tractor, from the tires to the condenser mounting bracket has a characteristic frequency, like a pendulum swinging or a tuning fork. At a certain engine speed, something large, like a heat shield will match the speed of the engine's induced vibration, causing that part to vibrate violently.

If you can track down the offending part, for instance the gas tank mount on my 129 tends to vibrate violently at a speed slightly above idle, you might be able to correct the problem by adding additional stiffening or bracing to that part.

I wouldn't get too hung up on the manufacturer's recommended idle speed, as long as the engine idles smoothly and is able to respond when you want to pour on the coals.