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Kirk Engines, Inc Cub Cadet Used Parts CADET CONNECTION Cub Cadet Specialties Cub Cadet Specialties

Archive through July 19, 2009

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cmccall

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Joined
Apr 12, 2009
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35
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Clint McCall
I just got my wiring harness on my 1450 sorted out, along with a new ignition switch, everything worked great, while working I cleaned the engine down good with engine degrease, wash down etc, cleaned up really great. A test drive showed some oil/gunk coming out of the head, so I pulled the head to find some hear break. Just a rough measurement the block will need bored, a new piston, rings, that's just from what I could see with the head off, I'm sure the bottom end would need some work as well. The valve side of the piston had a 1/8" wear on the piston, rings was the only thing holding any compression if they were holding enough ? The motor ran really well, I would have never guessed it.

So now being my funds are gone for any type of high priced rebuild I have a Onan 140 Elite that come from a Cub 2140 that looks like an updated Kohler k321, I have sit it in, and now I will be using this engine to power the 1450. Does anyone know anything about the Onan, it was made by Cummins, 140 Elite from what I gather it's a very expensive top of the line engine, OHV, supposed to also be balanced really good, I hope it has the power the Kohler did. Everything on the Onan looks like a updated version of the K321, the offset shaft, even the flange that bolts to the motor for the drive shaft is the same, the 4 bolt holes line right up, I done a quick search for the parts schematic and the cub 2140 is also a shaft drive. If anyone knows anything good or bad about the Onan before I get to far into this I would appreciate it.
 

ichoplin

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Joined
Aug 30, 2008
Messages
24
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Ian Choplin
Here are my Cubs(2x100's & 1x149) and one of my Scouts. This Scout is a 78, my other is a 1980(last year for Scout). Needless to say, IH runs pretty thick around here. Ian

162839.jpg
 

mgonitzke

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Aug 4, 2006
Messages
3,546
Location
Wichita, KS
displayname
Matt Gonitzke
100 progress:
162841.jpg

Got the tires mounted. I wish I could afford new ones. Oh well...

162842.jpg

Engine is about ready to put into tractor after I touch up the yellow on the tractor.

162843.jpg

Got the lug bolts plated...

162844.jpg

Somewhere in this mess is a half-finished wiring harness.

162845.jpg

I also got the plow and brinly adapter sandblasted.

Clint-

We have a 2145 with that engine, and parts are ungodly expensive. My dealer warned me of this. A head gasket is like $30. You can't get hardly any individual gaskets, you have to buy this like $200 gasket set. I would seriously consider selling that and looking for a good used K321 or rebuilding your old one. If anything ever happens to that Onan, it's a money pit.
 

cmccall

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Apr 12, 2009
Messages
35
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Clint McCall
Matt

Thanks for the heads up, I noticed a light tightening of the rear orifice when looking at price charts, starter $188, engine ~$2200, as you say parts are extreme on price. I done as much web research as I could, and the engines seem to be high end, have you had any problems with your 2145 ? Also does the power of the 2145 compare to a Kohler K321 ? (Pretty much asking of the Onan 140 is comparable in hp to the older Kohler K series). I may not have much choice for the moment to use the Onan, I will probably keep th K321 and rebuild as I have time, I would like to have it bored, and sleeved as I'm not a big fan of oversize pistons. It would be nice to go completely through the K321, along with bore, and sleeve.
 

mgonitzke

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Aug 4, 2006
Messages
3,546
Location
Wichita, KS
displayname
Matt Gonitzke
Clint-

Haven't used it much. One of the bolts holding the end cover on needs to be helicoiled so that the massive oil leak stops. It dumps oil out like crazy, so we can't use it right now. It runs pretty good, but I think my 1450 had more torque.
 

rwilke

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Joined
Jun 20, 2006
Messages
738
displayname
Ryan D Wilke
"Matt
Thanks for the heads up, I noticed a light tightening of the rear orifice when looking at price charts..."

-- Clint McCall (Cmccall) on Sunday, July 19, 2009 - 09:15 pm:

Clint,
I'm only on my first cup of coffee and I had to read that three times before it hit me -- TOO FUNNY!!
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Ryan Wilke
 

kmcconaughey

Keeper of the Photos
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Aug 4, 2006
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16,241
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Wisconsin
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Kraig McConaughey
Mike M., awesome garage floor!
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Bruce N., looking good! Clever battery holder and use of the welting.
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Tony P., WELCOME!
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That's a good looking Cub Cadet Original, I would have to say your son is really going to enjoy it.

Paul B., sorry to hear of your wife's health issues, I hope and pray that all goes well for her. We will miss you at RPRU, I believe the last time I saw you was in October, 2003 at Plow Day 6, at Travis' when you brought #409. That recoil start Original sure does look nice! Just curious did you find a new source for the lift arm grip, did you have extra on hand or is that the original one? As I recall Tim D., was trying to locate one some time back, not sure if he ever found one.
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Ian, nice <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> collection!

Matt, nice progress, time is running short! But from the rate you are going at you should just make it.
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pbell

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Feb 11, 2000
Messages
919
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Paul Bell
Kraig
That lift arm grip is the original as far as I know, at least it was on the tractor when I got it, but I do have a used spare or two that I found last year. I believe Tim found one.

I had 409 and the recoil start 70 that Art bought, at Travis's in 2003, and then went back to Little "G" in 2004 with 409, 510, 556, and 1018, all of which now live someplace else. I don't have room to keep them all, so I enjoy finding them, refurbishing them, take them to a few shows and then pass them on to someone else, and then do it all again.
 

bnolte

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Oct 12, 2006
Messages
603
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Bruce Nolte
Kraig,
My 125 has an original style battery holder, which looks cheap and flimsy by comparison. I may make one of my "specials" for that once I clear some of the other projects out of the way.

As far as the welting goes, it does cut down on rattles, but they have been replaced my an unsettling squeak. I might experiment by using it on the top edge only, but it looks so darn good going all the way around.

Started my next project, I dragged out the 42 inch decks from both 102s and am stripping them down. The one that came with my old 102 has a good bit of surface rust, but isn't rusted through like the other one, however it has a cracked and improperly welded center casting. The other deck is rusted through in several spots, and the center spindle and the double pulley is wallowed out, but has a good casting. It also has a spring loaded belt tensioner, rather than the fixed tensioner on the other one.

My neighbor said he would sandblast things the next time he was set up for it, I'll go ahead and get things ready in the meantime.

162875.jpg


162876.jpg
 

kmcconaughey

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Kraig McConaughey
Paul, that's right, you had the Recoil 70 there. Hmmm, I wonder if Art would have bought your Recoil Original this year...
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Bruce, are you sure that the 125 has an OEM battery tie down bracket? Here's what they should look like, one is a 40+ year old OEM bracket, the other is a Dan Hoefler made reproduction.

162889.jpg
 

fsnerd

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Apr 11, 2009
Messages
282
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frank snerd
my 128 with the stalling problem.

i posted this a few days ago, but did not get an answer. i am assuming it just got missed.
so, i will try again.

the timing - before i recheck the timing i want to make sure i am doing this right.can someone watch this video and tell if i have the correct timing mark in the correct window?
also, i used the feeler gage method, is the timing light method better? if so, will any automotive timing light work, or must it be one for a single cylinder?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m0ztRlKRj2E

exhaust leak - in this video you clearly see the soot marks from an exhaust leak, thanks to those who picked that up, i missed it entirely.
my question is, what is the best fix? should i try a repair of some sort? or just replace muffler and all pipes?
due to not knowing how old that exhaust is, i am leaning towards replacing everything, but, maybe someone knows of an easy fix.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UriS-6rMozw

thanks again.
 

kide

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Aug 27, 2006
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Gerry Ide
Frank:
That's the right place. IMHO the timing light is the proper way to time it - too many things can impact setting timing by point gap. Once you've found the BTDC mark on the flywheel, mark it with white paint so you'll see it easier . IIRC you have to aim the light from below the S/G bracket on an angle towards the back of the tractor..

That exhaust leak looks to be opposite the carb side of the pipe - but if you think that still may be the problem, whip up a piece of tin to deflect any exhaust blowing on the carb and see if it helps.
 

aschumacher

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Aug 23, 2006
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Allen Schumacher
Frank, not sure about best timing method, never did find the mark on my 147. With your exhaust leak, why dont you try muffler cement used on auto exhaust systems?? I put some on the connection when I put in a new muffler on my 147 and no leaks yet. It comes in a tube, maybe$3-4. If not at a farm store, all auto stores have it. A.
 

pdorow

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Joined
Dec 2, 2003
Messages
240
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Paul Dorow
Frank:

When I set my points with a feeler gauge my 1250 ran hot, even had preignition when I shut it off.

The timing light is the way to go.
 

bnolte

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Oct 12, 2006
Messages
603
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Bruce Nolte
Kraig,
Both those brackets you show look identical, the one on the 125 is probably original, and it looks like it was coated with some type of vinyl plastic.

It took hours of hard work, but I got the spindle and castings off. I had to either grind off the heads or crack the nuts on virtually all the fasteners on there. A cutting torch is definitely on my wish list. After all that hard work, I discovered that the deck had been previously welded on, and there were a lot of stress cracks, particularly around the rear mount points. Looks like I'll have to do a bit more welding to it myself, but at least there is still metal to work with. I'll see if Dad can bring up his portable welding outfit.
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dwshaffer

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Dec 9, 2008
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31
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Douglas W. Shaffer
Tony,

i would have to think that i would be the starter generator if the switch is good i just had mine repair and it cost me $100.00 well worth it just can't keep mine running that is anthor post. also the regulator will not go bad like you think they do mine is an original off of an original cub still works good so i would have to say the star/generator is bad hope you have good luck with yours.
 

dwshaffer

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Joined
Dec 9, 2008
Messages
31
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Douglas W. Shaffer
Need some major help with this one i have a 70 and can't get the steering wheel off to save my life pb blastered it and got a gear puller still can not get it off can't use the hammer method metal to weak bent it allready trying is there any other ways of getting it off. also it does not want to stay running with out the choke on i soaked the carb. in gas for a week clean it with a brush and then cleaned it with the carb cleaner still will not run right what might be my next step thanks
 

dblake

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Joined
Jul 1, 2009
Messages
15
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Don Blake
The pix of the "Original" today are "great timing" as my 16 yr old son is finishing the disassembly of his for sand blasting and a repaint.

One issue we have is an oil leak that comes from the internal brake lever area; are seals/gaskets available for this gear case?

Decals; is there a place to get them all as a package deal? Is Ebay a good source or is there someone here that is a better one?

Will the steering box rebuild shown on a wideframe apply to an original as well??

Fenders; I see some with/some w/o; this one is currently w/o; would it be "correct" to add them if I found a set?
Deck questions; This one has a roughly square plate welded by the rear gauge wheel but not the other; done in such a way that it looks like it "could be" factory; is it?

any sources for the blade belt and teh deck drive belt?
 

snicklas

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Jul 1, 2007
Messages
521
Location
Greenfield, Indiana
displayname
Scott Nicklas
Scott Stanton,

Yes any wideframe/quietline mule drive will fit the 1650. However, a belt mule drive off an 82 Series will fit, but not work without modification (ask me how I know). The "pin" the wideframes use to attach to the QA Hitch is the same as the pulleys are on, on the 82 Series there is a pin and the rod the pulleys mount to are about 1" in front of the pins, causing the belt to rub on the bar. The blade subframes are the same however, Dad uses the blade he used on the 149 on his 782.
 
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