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Archive through July 18, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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HARRY - Most were a 3-position switch, like I described. But there was also a 4 position switch for the early tractors that had generator "Cut-Offs" instead of voltage regulators. There was low charge, high charge, low beam and high beam lights. On those old Farmalls the rear light had it's own switch on most of them, had the white work light, or Off, or the red tail light.

I've seen those switches like Jeff posted the pic of on newer equipment. I think the postions were "off", "field" or Flood, "Road", and then a "Parking" postion. The flood postion was white work lights front & rear, road was white light forward and red/amber lights to the rear plus flashing warning lights if so equiped, and parking lights was red/amber rear lights and flashing lights if so equiped. On tractors without cabs the flashing lights were visible from front and rear, on cab tractors the flashing lights were on both frt & rear. And as always, Slow Moving Vehicle emblems were used, think it was 1976 before IH made them standard on the 86-series.

They're not a bad idea on Cub Cadets either if you mow along roads/streets.
 
Dennis...
Here is a NOS 4 position switch that I have
It is marked,clockwise
batt
inst
rl
hl
tl



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241791.jpg
 
Jeff, Dennis and Lewis - geez, looks like I really opened the door. I never looked at the back of the 4 position switch I had. I just know I always thought it was odd the headlights would come on without the tail lights, and then the next position was tail lights only, and the final position was both head and tail. Lewis, it looks like it would be difficult to wire up that old 4 position switch if it was inside the dash support of a CC unit. Jeff, you're lucky you only got 2 position switches. And don't forget to set the pointy thing facing up.
 
Last night the spindle belt on my 42" deck broke. Not sure if it was original or not. It was on there as long as I can remember. Thankfully I had a spare and was back up and running within 15 minutes or so. I didn't notice it right away until I looked back and saw the narrow swath I was cutting!
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Rodney, CJ2As are one of my favorite Jeeps! When I was in high school, a neighbor friend of mine had one. Was fun to ride around in. Sure wish I would have bought it when he sold it... I've had a couple of Willys 4x4 Station Wagons, a 1955 and a 1958. Some day I'd like to get a nice CJ2A to play with.
 
Years ago there was a wiring diagram on here for that 4 position switch. The coiled wire was a resistor to dim the head lights. One position for headlights bright you could hook a flasher up to the red tail lights. One position for field work, bright head lights white rear work light. Seems like Bryan B or mabey Steve B found it.
 
Dennis, I am not running out to put the deck back on the 1650 yet. I got about 2.5" of rain out of those clouds but the grass still is not even starting to green out yet. I need to work up the garden to get rid of the weeds before the deck will go back on.
 
Rodney,
I agree 110% with Paul Bell regarding the "303 Aerospace Protectant" being a GREAT protective dressing for anything vinyl or rubber; including tires. I've tried lots of different treatments and I believe this is the best stuff yet! I use it on all our vehicle tire sidewalls, door seals and on the vinyl interior of our Jeep.

I believe you can buy it online or get it at your local NAPA store.

I don't believe it will repair cracked tires, but I believe it will stop/prevent further damage. If your tires are hard & dry, I'd suggest you simply dampen / spray the sidewalls and let it soak in good - don't wipe it off. Then repeat the treatment again a week later. Three treatments usually get a dry sidewall looking MUCH better.

Ryan W
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Dave, good memory! It was back in December 2001 and Steve and Bryan were discussing this switch. I believe that Steve may have created the schematic... Too many posts worth of text to easily quote, but here's the photos.

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It appears to be a different version of the switch that Lewis posted.
 
Kraig, you amaze me sometimes on how you keep all those pictures straight. What made me think of it was Bryan B's snow blower outfit.
 
Dave, because it was. Bryan was adding flashers to his 1450 with Deluxe cab. Note the flasher relay in Steve's schematic.

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

By Bryan McMeen, Keeper of the Holy Hy-tran, 16 mi. west of I94 in Barrington,IL (Bmcmeen) on Saturday, December 29, 2001 - 07:24 am:

SB -

You ain't kiddin' about pulling some amperage!

I've got a 3-way switch on order (the one that was in the 169 was bad) for the 1450. Now then, what would be the proper way to connect it with the headlights, taillights, flashers and front/rear worklights? No diagram is necessary, I can figure that out, but please tell this city boah which switch positions are supposed to light up what. Thanks!

We'll be stoppin' at F&F on the way back from Harvard this evening, so I want to have my shopping list ready ;-)<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

By Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" 1 mile north of IL 116 (Sblunier) on Saturday, December 29, 2001 - 08:11 am:

Bryan,

I put all of that on the diagram, easier to just re-post that.

Mine are set up for headlights all of the time, position #1 head/flashing rear tail lights
position #2 head/solid rear tail lights
position #3 head/tail/work lights

see txt in corner of the dia. for switch/pin info.

dia

The big tractors were wired:

"Hazard" = flashing front/rear marker lights (daytime road transport)

"Road" = "Hazard" & headlights (night time road transport)

"Field" = headlights and rear work lights

An additional rocker switch was used for any aux. lighting packages.

I don't see much use for the "flashers only" position (without headlights) on a Cub since they don't have front facing marker lamps. Now, if your cab has "hazard" lamps...that's a different story.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
 
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