Archive through July 17, 2013

[lhinds]

Jeremiah would it not be simpler to cut the nipple off the muffler, then weld a straight exhaust nipple on to fit the adapter on the engine? Just my 02c

 

[bbranstetter]

Jeremiah, Harry,

I too have been watching this discussion as of late on the whole muffler question. Just had a 169 fall in my lap this last weekend and it will be in need of a correct muffler. To bad this is a NLA part.

Just speaking for myself, I wouldn't feel bashful at all about customizing a muffler that was close.

 

[jchamberlin]

Thanks for the suggestions, guys.

Luther, I'm not yet a welder, but even if I were, it seems to me that the two mufflers have very different configurations. If the Noise Suppression version employs an honest-to-goodness 1" x 1-1/4" (straight) nipple, then installing it properly would mean removing the current 90 degree nipple from the block and inserting a nipple that could be found or fabricated at any plumbing supply outlet. Then the only issue is finding a "Heat Baffle" to fit. Again, I have no idea what the Noise Suppression option looks like installed. If I cut the elbow off the Noise Suppression muffler, as you suggest, I would have to be sure the diameter of the "stub" mated up to the existing 90 from the block --but again, it seems to me that the angle of entry into the two mufflers is different. Of course, this is no issue to someone who can weld.

Reposting what got eaten by the archive bug:
As I mentioned earlier, the "Heat Baffle" for the OEM-style muffler, P/N KH-237679 on Tractors w/serial no. 438962 & above is depicted on Parts Lookup for the K321A:

(I think the holes, from bottom to top, are the stud #7 in the tightening sequence, bolt #8, bolt #1, and stud #4 with the hole for the muffler screw at the top of the image.)

The Heat Baffle for an engine with the Noise Suppression muffler is listed under the same item#, but Parts Lookup tells me that it is No Longer Available (NLA)

I guess what I'm looking for is a picture of a tractor that came with the Noise Suppression muffler and that still has the original heat baffle on it, as well as the exhaust hipple.
Once I know what I'm looking for, I can go shopping (or fabricating).

A final thought: Of course, I'm going to all this trouble to have a quieter tractor; but can anyone tell me if the Noise Suppression muffler is really quieter than the OEM version?

 

[aaytay]

Somebody needs to figure out these 169 mufflers, I need one too!

 

[jfchapman]

nube; I have a IH CC 107 with rear 23 x 8.50 -12 tubeless rear tires; can a tube be used with these tires? tks v/r jimc S.F.

 

[digger]

Art,
If you guys want to chip in on an order for a 1000 of them, I can sure have them made.
I'll do 500, the rest will be on you investors.
2 companies will do them but a minimum of 1000 is a requirement.
Oh yea, the cost would be $62.00 Ea.

Any takers?

 

[digger]

Jim C.
You can tube any tire.

 

[dfrisk]

Charlie & ALL - As these old Cubbies get older parts will become increasingly harder to find. To me, $62 for a muffler doesn't sound all that bad. Last time I checked a muffler for a 982 was over $100... times TWO. And since more 169's are turning up all the time, there may be demand for 1000 eventually.

IMO, you'll never really ever be able to make a single cyl CC "Quiet", same way you can never make one of those nasty old 2-cyl green farm tractors quiet, but a larger muffler with more baffling inside will help. And having the outlet facing away from the operator really helpts too.

 

[wbest]

I would like to put highway tires on my Cub Hauler trailer. It has 12" trailer rims and tires. I am considering using 12" Cub Cadet rear wheels probably the ones that take the 8.50 tires. Does anyone know if there are any of the Cub Cadet tires that are road worthy? Or if there are any tires that wide for the 12" rims? I haven't been able to find any locally. Thanks for any help. William

 

[dfrisk]

William - I don't think I'd put CC rear wheels on a trailer you intend to pull at highway speeds. The rear wheels used on CC's were intended for 20 MPH or less. Back when they were new, 30+ yrs ago.

Note the descriptions of these wheels/tires state "High Speed", http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/category_tires-wheels+high-speed-trailer-tires-wheels+12in.-high-speed-trailer-tires-wheels

 

[jfchapman]

tks Digger; I'm going to get some tubes at 10 bucks a pop v/r jimc S.F.

 

[wbest]

Thanks Dennis, I was wondering about that issue. If there is room I could use 13" auto rims. I remember having an early model Dodge Aries with 13" rims. Not sure about the bolt pattern, have to do some checking.

 

[fcurrier]

Brian:

Hope to see you in the 169 thread with "the rest of the story".

 

[gpapa]

Hello guys, haven't posted in a long time, but have been browsing. Can someone direct me to information on how to rebuild/diagnose an electric impliment lift (147)? Mine seems to disengage and then will work again if grabed and moved (shaken up and down). There seems to be quite a bit of thrust play in the shaft. The electric motor runs fine. The small worm gear running from the electric motor seems worn a bit, and there is definitely back and forth movement or slop in the ring gear coming from the main shaft if the shaft is moved in and out. Thanks.

 

[dtanner]

Had a great couple of days running my MC around Cape Breton Island . I even saw a few Cubs along the way. I will have some pictures to show off that we do have a few mountains around here lol. Did you all miss me ? Charlie did !

I did miss You all !

 

[aschumacher]

GREG _P. see if this is any help for you.
http://cubfaq.com/electriclift.html
I think Charlie has parts and rebuilt lifts.

 

[bbranstetter]

Thanks Frank! Hope to have the serial number tomorrow evening. Make sure its real 169

 

[hydroharry]

Jeremiah - this is a pic of my 169 with the incorrect muffler (don't tell anyone or I'll get point deductions). The correct 169 version has the straight inlet fitting and a stubby outlet pipe about 1 or 2" long. As you can see my outlet is about 5-6" long. I'll see if I can get you a pic of the muffler inlet over the weekend. My complete muffler really looks just like the version for the smaller hp engines 10/12/14hp, but it's bigger overall. Also, the 169 heatshield is similar to what you need for the smaller hp engines, but I'm pretty certain the mounting holes are in slightly different locations since the 16hp head has a different bolt pattern. At least this pic gives you an idea of what you should be looking for. Now, is the Quiet Version Muffler actually quieter on the 10/12/14hp engines? I just don't know. I only recall seeing one previously and my recollection is that yes it is, but not a whole lot. But then again, I also think the standard mufflers varied - some were quieter than others. If you can find the quiet parts without a hole lot of trouble it may be worth while, but I wouldn't recommend it if it's going to cost you alot more.

 

[kostendorf]

I found out the hard way today which way to run the spark plug wire from the plug to the coil. Do not run it between the heat shield and fire wall even though there is an indent in the shield that looks tailor made for the wire to go there. When a hydro stops running its never near the garage. I thought maybe I was low on gas and the filter was a little clogged but no that wasn't it after I lugged a gas can 200 yards. So I pulled the wire out of the coil because the spark plug end was too hot and there was plenty of spark there. So I waited till it cooled enough to pull the wire on the spark plug and no spark. The wire almost broke in half and it was the expensive one from Dave Kirk. So I guess I have to order another one.

 

[hydroharry]

Keith - mine used to run from the plug then over along the lift bracket right where you have that cable bolted on, then bend around and go down to the coil. This kept it up and just off the tin piece on the head which is what I think you're calling the heat shield. If you can't route yours this way then I think you need a longer plug wire (I think DK has a couple lengths but not sure).