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Archive through July 15, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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ljones

Well-known member
IHCC Supporter
Joined
Jan 15, 2010
Messages
737
Location
Kentucky
displayname
Lucas Jones
Seeing all these so76 makes me want onr BAD.

Is it possible to make a fake So76 take the equivelent model and paint it red and wight and put So 76 decals on it ?
 
Thanks guys! Perhaps I will just fix the 106's original problem with the clutch arm mount and restore the 123! I was thinking it would be easier than messing around with all those arms and linkages and everything in between, but like I said I was just brainstorming! I do thank you all for your input though! Now I must go to weld the brackets for the clutch arm on the 106! I have been mowing with my restored 104 since I broke the 106 and I gotta say I love that thing!
 
I am also always looking for a spirit of 76....but actually I prefer wide frame series units. I've also got a keen eye out for my neighbor Rick Albert for a non gold plated "O".

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Like most everybody has stated .........build it bigger....... I am now down to one bay in the 30x48 shed and shrinking daily........
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I started overhauling my PTO clutch on my 125 and have a question.

What are the spring clips for and where exacly do they go? Please give instructions as looking at the PTO on the tractor.

There were no instructions about those. I tried to install them how I thought they should go but that was quite the pain in the #*@. I just came in to get educated and will try again in the morning. Seems like most people just leave them out. None of the three tractors had them.

Any help is appreciated.
 
Bob G Proctor
I think you are talking about the anti rattle springs? three of them ? They go in the pto clutch basket, If you look close you will see where they go. I don`t bother with them because they usually blow out and are lost. my .02
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Bob they go between the pto disc and the basket evenly spaced in a tri pattern.

the clip part with the straight side goes to the inside of the basket touching the metal the part that has the L shape clips behind the disc.

you should only see the round part when looking at it from the front.

work everything into the metal clutch basket slow and it will slide right in.

sorry no photo saved at work
 
Thanks guys!!

Thats what I thought but I was having trouble getting them all in at the same time and didn't know if it matters which side of the friction disk lobe's they are on. As you look at it I would think they should be on the left side since the basket is pushing it counter clockwise.
 
yes,, the left side when looking at it sorry Bob
 
Kent-
Nice find on the SO76. There is local guy here who stores one of those for me. Come to think of it, maybe I should pick it up some day soon...
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Rick Albert-
(From awhile back) Yep, I still use that vibra-tach regularly.
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Jeff

The only thing that would be creating drag (the disire not to spin) is the valve springs and ring friction. It should turn with slight resistance most of the cycle then harder when the valve springs are being compressed. Newly rebuilt, it has more resistance because everything is tighter. Rings worn out, less friction. Valve spring busted, less resistance.

With the removal of one more nut (breather cover) you can watch the valves to determine when they are operating and if operating correctly.

I don't remember why you're investigating.
 
Tuesday night I bought a Hobart Handler 140. I love it! I have not welded for 23 years. This thing makes it very easy. Wednesday I made a mounting braket for my Haban. Took me all day but got it done and it works great.

The PO of my 125 didn't tighten one of the set screws on the PTO basket/ SG pully. It had been wobbling and made a lowspot on the crankshaft where the pully mounts. I very carefully fill/welded the crank. Then a lot of grinding & filing & checking. Well, it turned out great! Pully fits tight. I also welded a long crack in the heat deflector that mounts to the top of the engine and a few other things.

The moral of the story is the Hobart Handler 140 works great for a Cooter like me. (Cooter: one who loves to tinker and who's moto is "if it ain't broke, fix it anyway") I've only used the flux core wire, no MIG welding YET. This thing has welded from 3/32" to 1". All the welding on the bracket was 1/4" to 1/4" and about 2 feet of weld overall. It has a duty cycle of 20%. I thought that might be a problem but it proved itself to me.
Highly recommended for all you Cooter's out there!!
 
Today,

Finish the 125 pto, rebuild an air compressor (can't wait to get rid of my old LOUD oiless) and of course, more welding!
 
BOB P. - My suggestion on those anti-rattle clips is to store them away in some remote location in your shop until you forget about them. Like Don says, they eventually will come up "MIA" if you install them.

Congrats on the welder. Might as well spend a bit more money and get the gas regulators if they weren't included and buy (don't rent) a bottle of gas then MIG weld. The stuff you weld has to be cleaner, all shiny steel if possible, those 4-1/2" DeWalt flap wheels work great for prepping for welding, but I think for 90% of the welding we do for CC-sized stuff your Handler 140 in MIG mode would be great. Most of Us use a 25%/75% mix of Argon & CO2 with MIG, your local welding supply shop where you buy the tank will get you steered to the right stuff. And get the biggest tank you can afford, 80-100 Cubic foot, they're about 7" dia and 2-1/2 ft tall.
 
Richard, good looking shop. How true, "stuff" expands to fill the available space. No matter how big you build it it will eventually be too small.

Bob P., best place for those anti-rattle spring clips is in a drawer in your shop, second best place is just toss them in the trash.

Art, you should come get the SO76 clean the carb then bring it back.
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Bob:
What Dennis said....get the gas (which is usually 75% ARGON, 25% CO<font size="-2">2</font>) and you'll lose most of the spatter that you get with flux core, get cleaner welds and really hear the bacon frying.... The only thing better than the Hobart woulda been blue, but they're actually the same company
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PS - don't be afraid to turn the heat up and practice, practice, practice!!!

BTW, I'm saving all of my anti-rattle clips - they're gonna be rare and worth a lot 50 years from now (for my grand-son...)
 
Art,

I'll grab that SO76 when I swing by to pick up other goodies from Kraig's garden. But you'll have to get the carb cleaned quickly so I play with it yet this summer. I figure Kraig could store it again this winter.

Luckily I am driving the big blue truck today.

I thought I was bringing a 104 roller to work today for a co-worker is looking to possibly purchase it from me, but he has the day off, so maybe Monday.
 
God day all, i `am proud to belong to such a fine group! If it wern`t for some people on here I would not have a few Cubs lol. Today was a day I ordered tin for the roof and wanted to see just how many Cubs I can put in here. The first is my 1962 O and the 100 next.I thought I could back them in and well I`am thinking of how to stack tham. lol
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I was given a sample of some underlay that won`t leak and will last in the sun for 6 months. So I stapled it on. My Tin roof will be here Wed,The wife goes on Vacation in one week
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and there gows any plans I have lol.But I will get to drag the fiver around. Charlie your a great guy.
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I hope to get this moving. I like pictures and well there scarse? Here is my 100
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Don T
Looks nice!! Ya need a rear door to get that "Cub I need today" out without unloading the whole shebang!!
 
Don: Looking good (and portable with a couple wheels). Scott's right about that rear door, kinda like a snowsled shed before they put reverse in snowsleds. Have I told you, lately, what I like about you? (Nuthin)
P.S. I'm not the sharpest knife in the drawer - I just found out/realized (while putting a new valve stem in Lucy's left front tire) that Titan tires are Made in the USA.
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