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Archive through July 09, 2011

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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I've pulled since I was 8yrs old and built every thing from Wheel Horses, Cubs, and those silly green things that don't pull well.

Right now I'm working on my 82 series puller with an 8hp to comply with club rules. See my link a few posts down for pics of the club pulls. I'm actually co-owner of Panther Pulling. (that's not really saying much.)
 
NIC - I had to LOL at your comment about those green tractors.

You DO realize the Peerless transaxle in the gear drive versions of those tractors is the strongest rearend of ANY garden tractor. I read it on the "Internet"!
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But I think I'll keep my old GD'S with the 1940's technology that IH used in these little tractors.
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Hello all, just got signed in, question, I have a cubcadet 72 with bone stock 8hp kohler, would like to put a spool in the rear,(do I need it)
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to make sure we don't have any one wheel wonders,Going to keep this tractor as stock as possilbe, except for the rear tires, I have serveral sets of tires to play with,so we got that handled,2nd do I have to run a foot pedal throttle in this class I be in,(PURE STOCK)
 
Brian, you'll need to check with your local pulling group's specific rules on both of your questions.

I pulled with 3 different pulling associations and each had their particular rules.

I know none of them allowed a locked rear. One wheel wonder is/was the only way. The nice thing is the wheels are close, you only need to shift your body weight towards the spinning tire.

One of the associations stated if the Cub Cadet was completly stock you did not need a deadman throttle or foot throttle, the other 2 required it.

So check with the pulling association in your area.
 
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I read the rules for Lawn mower class, stock motor that it came with & stock tires, wheel bars,stock carb,& lawn mower clutch on the engine,Well my lawn mower clutch housing blew up on that cub,so I put a frt mount mower on it, clutch is on the mower out frt.Only thing on the motor is the dual pullies to run the belt(hope their will let that fly)looks like I am stuck with,6-12 rear tire,,I have 8-12, might see if I can use them >>LOL, I'll take both with me ,,,ahahaha , it says complete stock class
 
Hey Brian, Can you post apicture of this tractor you are going to be pulling with? I'd like to see a photo of that "clutch" setup you've got going on now.
 
My grandson has posted here several times since he wants his 241AQS to be a winner. He is planning on rebuilding the engine and installing .030 piston. But I read Brian Millers site and he says that " increasing the bore may not create more power...longer crankshaft stroke is needed. Do I understand this correctly ? How do you increase crankshaft stroke ?
 
CHARLES - Increasing the piston stroke on a K241 requires a different crankshaft. The K241 is a short stroke engine, only 2-7/8" stroke where the K301 (12 hp) K321 (14 hp) & K341 (16 hp) are all 3-1/4" stroke. The crankshaft from those engines pops right into a K241 but requires a different, shorter connecting rod so the piston doesn't extend out the top of the block. The stock K301/321/341 rod should be used.

There are longer stroke crankshafts available at much higher cost but little things like the camshaft, the bottom of the cylinder walls inside the block all get in the way of the conn rod and crankshaft throw and reguire modification. If I remember correctly, anything over 3-1/2" stroke requires major modifications, meaning time and much more money. In a K241 block, going from a 3-1/4" to 3-1/2" stroke crankshaft only adds a bit over two cubic inches, from 26.961 to 29.035 CID.

For stock class pulling starting with the K241 is not the best engine, most clubs allow the longer stroke K301 12 HP engines to be used which drops right into your CC chassis as long as you use a CC spec block.

Having run K161/181/241/301/321 engines for thousands of hours I can say that there are definite differences in the ways the engines perform when under load. The K301 & 321 engines tend to hold RPM longer when pulled down below full load RPM where the K241 will lose RPM faster because of the shorter stroke which reduces leverage on the crankshaft. There are other things that effect engine performance like rod length verses stroke length, namely "Long Rod" engines tend to perform better under high load conditions than "short rod" engines. It all has to go with Geometry in how the longer rod positions the piston in the cylinder relative to the rotational position of the crankshaft. The "Long Rod" engine parks the piston at the top and bottom of the cylinder longer than the short rod does and allows cylinder PRESSURE to build much higher and allow the piston to exert much more force on the crankshaft. But since the crankshaft centerline and top deck of the block are "FIXED Dimensions", the only way to increase rod length is to use speciaL custom pistons which have the wrist pin bore machined higher in the piston, which effects the area of the piston where the piston rings go, the rings need to be closer together and raised up on the piston which effects ring sealing as the piston rocks in the cylinder when the piston is at the top & bottom of it's stroke.

There's a TON of great SCIENCE involved in tuning engines for high performance, and you and your Grandson will soon learn that engine performance is ALL about COMPROMISE. You can increase one design aspect of the engine design for better performance but will decrease performance in another way. And the Kohler being a Flat Head design engine makes those compromises MUCH more difficult to chose.
 
the thing to made power out of a kohler flat head for a stock class is it needs to look stock on the outside. most rules say max bore is .030 over,stock valve size,stock head to make power need to go with the 3.25 stroke use a after market piston ( with is small than stock oem piston ) and use a loger rod with will make more torque change the cam for more lift and open longer for valves 1.380 int.and exh.
port and polish and just shaved the head so the its flat again shaved the top of the block so ur head gakets seals and thats about it u can get about 5 hp gain maybe more if do it right
 
Please help , These tires were stolen from our farm in Northeast Ohio.
Two Vogel VM TT 23x10.5x12 2ply bar not mounted
two Deestone d405 seg 23x10.5x12 6 ply bar not mounted
two Carlisle Super Lug 23x10.5x12 4 ply bar not mounted
All like new condition
Please contact Ashtabula County Sheriff 440 576 0055

Thanks for your help
 
Bryan, I've never done it but I've heard claims of 70 horse at 7000 RPM. I really don't know.
 
Dave, I'm sure numbers like that are possible, but only if your running ALL billet internals, a block strap and some combo of Alcohol and/or Methanol. (maybe a little nitro in there) And odds are it doesn't run to 7000 rpm very often before needed some new parts.
20HP is probably a more realistic number to expect with a budget. But let's remember, most of this game is about how effeicently we put the power we have to the ground.
 
I want to hook two 16horse kohlers together but not sure on do you make them fire on the revolution or opposite can anybody tell me
 
J. T. -- I've never set one myself, but have heard that the engines are set up to fire opposite each other. When engine "A" is completing the compression stroke and getting ready to fire, engine "B" is completing it's exhaust stroke.
 
Set the pistons to run together only one is on compression and the other is on exhaust. This advice was given to me by Tim Engler many years ago and it worked perfectly for me.
 
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