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Archive through July 09, 2008

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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bmcmeen

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Bryan D. McMeen, Keeper of the Holy Hy-Tran
Hopefully SB will chime in if I'm wrong, but I believe two 1/8"OD o-rings will replace the original valve packing. They also provide additional resistance to turning. I have them on all my filter bowls, including the B&S on my Simplicity.
 
Myron:
OK, no "back seat" as in a compressed gas valve, but I can tell ya, when I open the valve all the way, it is hard stopped from turning out farther. In proper working condition, they don't fall out when backed out all the way.
 
My 100 bowl valve leaks if I don't open it all the way until it "seats".

My Original with the loader on makes it hard to open and close the valve on the bowl and won't seat open without leaking, or at least opening my hand. It will seat using pliers. So, I put in a different shut off valve just before the carb. Much easier to open and close with the loader on now.

88672.jpg

crappy camera phone...
 
Looking for the large zinc plated screws that hold down the raised panel footplates on a 1250/1450/1650 series tractor. Lookup above gives part number 710-3055, but since there is no arrow to the screws in the diagram I was hoping somebody could verify?
 
Rob N,
I got some in stainless from Mcmaster-Carr.
I'm sure they have the zinc plated ones too.
I liked the stainless better since it won't rust.
Had to buy a pack of 25 which is enough for 3 tractors but they weren't very expensive.

Mcmaster-Carr

I just checked and they do have them in zinc;
part # 90271A581 $9.76 for 50

stainless part # 91785A581 $13.62 for pack of 25.

5/16-18 x 3/4" truss head machine screw.
 
Rob, I believe that is the correct number. I'm not that familiar with the Quiet Line series but I think those are slottted Truss head screws go to McMaster-Carr and enter in this part number 91785A581, and you can get stainless steel versions of those slotted truss head screws. Granted, you have to buy them in packs of 25 and they will be 3/4" long instead of 5/8" long but they won't rust. I just bought a pack for use on my 125 refurb.

Under edit, I wasted time checking to see if the Quiet Line used the slotted head version....
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Kendell I: You are correct that the backside of the tapered "head" of the screw backs into the seal and stops when opened all the way. When new, or in good condition, the seal prevents the screw (actually, TC-113 calls it a needle valve assembly) from coming out. If you tighten that nut on the needle valve shaft just in front of the T-handle, you can sometimes re-compress the packing and often get a seal and stop the leak for a while, but when that packing goes you get a leak and eventually the "screw" with the T-handle part of the needle valve assembly will come right out the back of the assembly. BTDT....

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom
 
Kraig/Todd

Thanks for the reply on the screws, good suggestion with going Stainless. Putting a set of 1X50 footrests on a 82series tractor. Had footrests sandblasted and powdercoated. Rear fenders are sandblasted, primed, and awaiting some dry sunny weather for painting.
 
Rob N,
You will need some longer screws for an 82 series. I think the ones at the back of the foot rests go through a round bar that supports the fenders. They will probably need to be about 1-1/4" long.
 
ROB - Be VERY careful when installing those screws in the footrests. The plated carbon steel rusted in bad enough but stainless steel GALLS against carbon steel and that's almost like welding them in. Use anti-sieze, thread sealant, Teflon tape, even toothpaste to coat the threads and prevent that from happening. I used to buy parts for food & chemical producing equipment, Everything was 316 SS or better like Inconel, Monel, even Hastalloy, etc.

I'm not a big fan of SS hardware, expecially the hardware store variety, MUCH better stuff is available but it's costly and very hard to find. Plus if Your application is structural in nature at all a grade #5 is actually stronger than the cheap 18-8 hardware store SS hardware.
 
I was thinking that 5/8 to 3/4" seemed a little short, based upon the screws I removed
 
Do the 1x6/7, 86,1x8/9 Quiet Lines and 82 series have captive nuts for the footrests? The 1x2/3 and 1x4/5 series uses regular nuts and lock washers for the footrest to fender connection. I also bought SS lock washers/ flat washers and nuts for use with the SS truss head screws I bought. In my application, would the paint on the foot rests and fenders be sufficient separation between the steel and SS?
 
Does anyone know the length of the oil dipstick on a 100? I am measuring from the inserted tip to the metal disk at the bottom of the rubber stopper. Thank you Greg
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Thanks for all the info on my fuel bowl problem on my O. have ordered 2 new bowls for my Originals.

greg papa (Gpapa) here is a shot of the dip stick on my 100. hope this helps
88686.jpg
 
any one here familiar/ own a tow behind Haban make tiller? one for sale in area,5 hp, 36"w. are they any good, usable tiller for occasional use?
 
Thank you Don. I do have the same dipstick, I just can't figure out why 2 1/2 pints brings the oil level up to the full mark
 
Kraig,
My 149 uses a "Clinch-nut" for the footrests. The holes are punched, then the nut is inserted into the hole and pressed. The teeth on the nut grip the metal.
 
I have a question about a 1450 hydro. This is my first CC build (got this from a neighbor for free) and it was some what of a basket case, so I don't have alot to go by. This hydro unit has a broken/modified spring plate as you can see in the photo. I believe I have to remove the whole shaft to replace this piece? And if so, is this a difficult task and/or a hard part to find?

88692.jpg
 
James, you should be able to have that welded back up check the FAQ entry #14 then follow the links at the bottom of each page, there are 4 pages total it includes photos and dimensions of the cutout in that part for the springs.
 

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