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Archive through July 08, 2013

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Dennis-I put two heavy coats over freshly sandboxed surface. Grass did stick and the paint came off. My situation is I live in a river valley and the grass underneath is always damp. I just ordered a Mojack and I will do a complete cleaning after every mow. Don't want to weld up the deck again for a long time
 
Dennis Frisk, The single K series with magnetos still used points. I put one of those cheap electronic modules on my K161-T and it works great. Very simple to install and totally eliminates points and condenser.
 
Steve / Billy,

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Got the crank cleaned up tonight, not looking too bad. Muriatic acid works pretty good on removing aluminum. Tomorrow it goes to the machine shop to get checked out.
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Shultzie-
I get the same reaction from my parents. I will be the first to admit, it takes a special breed to like the kind of Math Steve and I do. However, I firmly believe that to truly understand the universe, Calculus is your best friend and most powerful tool. The uses of Calculus are practically unlimited. It is used in Business, EXTENSIVELY in the Sciences, in Economics, Engineering.......the list goes on. Anyway, this is my Point Of View.
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Fellas,

I was reading a review of a new cub and and started to laugh! I thought some of you here might also get a kick out of it:

"The 2013 Cub Cadet LTX 1050 KW is a average 50 inch cut lawn tractor built by MTD and should last the average homeowner a few hundred hours if maintained well."

My 129 was built in Oct, 1972. Now although it has had some work done on it over the years; it has WAY MORE than a few hundred hours put on it and is a lone way from being junk....

Have a good laugh, Guys!
Ryan W
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Hi All,
Got a question. My K301 on my 122 has a loud backfire through the muffler EVERYTIME I shut it down. I installed a new condenser a couple of weeks ago and it runs great, but this backfiring after each shutoff is scaring the life out of anyone standing around and the wife is starting to chap me over it. Anyone got any idea's?
 
Chauncey

Idle down for 30 seconds before shutting down.....shutting down at high idle loads the hot muffler with raw gas.......then BANG!
 
Chauncey F. - I agree with Steve B. In fact, I normally let my CC's idle for 5 to 10 minutes before I shut them off if they've been worked very hard or it's really hot out. You might want to reduce your low idle speed as well and only shut your 122 off at very slow idle speed. When you idle your 122 when mowing or whatever, let it idle at a faster speed, but just before shut-down, idle it down as slow as possible.
 
Chauncey, I agree with Mr.Plow.

When your turn the key off the engine keeps spinning a bit. So it's still pumping air and fuel through the carb and into the cylinder. Without spark, it pushes the charge right into a 1000 degree hot oven (the muffler) when it quickly expands and ignites. And BANG!

So yes, try to make it a good practice to park it at full idle for a minimum of 30sec. This will help slow the flywheel so it won't spin as much after the key is turned and will help cool the muffler so it's less of an oven.

It's also an indication your running a bit rich. I'd turn the mixture screw in about 1/8 turn.
 
Chauncey F., I agree with Steve B, Denny F., Nic B. and the Operator's Manual.

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So...if I wanted to install the QA42" deck from my 129 on my 122 what would I need?

I know I would at least need the NF QA Mule gear, would I need the sub-frame too?

My manual show it will bolt on but doesn't really tell me what parts are different.
 
Matthew, I believe the sub-frame would be the same, as in it isn't the "hump back" style. So you should be good to go with just a NF mule drive.
 
Thanks Kraig,

I think I've got it figured out now. There's two different sub-frames/mule drive setups based on deck serial numbers. They both will work I just need to make sure I match the correct mule to the correct sub-frame.

Unless I can mismatch, which I don't know.
 
Matthew,

You can mismatch. I have a WF mule with an 82 series subframe on my 128. So I can use my 82 series decks on all my tractors. I've also seen plenty of newer decks on NF's on this site.
 
Chauncey - although I also agree with what everyone else has said on your back fire problem, I also think there could be an underlying problem that you might hide by idling the engine for awhile before shut-off. I especially say this if you never had this back fire problem before, and assuming you've had the tractor for awhile. My 1st concern would be that the engine is actually overheating. I'd make sure all the cooling fins on your head and outside cylinder walls are not blocked up with grass/crud/etc. Next, I'd make sure the timing is set exactly perfect - dead nuts on the S or SP when viewing with a timing light thru the site hole. Once you've verified this then I'd go thru the carb adjustments, since as Nic mentioned you may be running a little rich on the mixture - but these Kohler K's should be set about 1/8 to 1/4 turn rich anyway. And finally, if you're still getting the back fire after all this then I would pull the head and de-carbon it as well as the top of the piston. And finally, if after all this you still get the back fire, well then you probably need to replace your muffler. It could be failing and all the loose rusted metal is obsorbing heat sufficient to ignite the fumes after you shut the tractor off.
Let us know how you make out. This is one of those issues that does happen but we never really find out what cures the problem.
 
Dad's 125 would backfire no matter how much you idled it (similar motor). We got used to shutting the engine off and quickly covering our ears. I still do it sometimes when I'm running my 147.
 
Finally figured out the problem with my 128
the pin in the creeper shift handle that goes into the yoke to slide the gear is MIA. Put in a new drive shaft and TO bearing, had my son true up the clutch plates and it running fine again.
 
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