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Archive through July 06, 2013

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Good morning all,

Quick question on my KT-17 build. When I started tearing down the motor I found that much of it had been RTV'd together; jugs and closing plate in particular. Nothing was leaking when I took it apart, with the exception of the front oil seal,so is that more advantages than using the supplied gaskets in a kit or just personal preferrence?
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Just wondering what your thoughts are on this.
 
Harry,
The dash decals were made to go on the dash "tin". Since the same P/N fiberglass dash, or "cowl" as the parts manual calls it, is used on both gear drive and hydro models, I believe you will find some unused holes in the cowl that the decal will not cover very well.
 
Paul - yes you got me on that one. I recall now the dash (cowl) has the hydro lever cutout so putting the decal over that wouldn't be the greatest.

Tom - better try to find some type of soft roller to "roll out" the air under the decal once installed.

Jeremiah - no I was thinking you only needed to get the correct tin piece for the high boss head, and then re-use your current heat shield for a 98pointer (after welding the crack of course), or get the 1x8/9 heat shield for a 99pointer, which would probably rate 100points since hardly anyone would know.
 
Dear Harry,
For lack of ambition I decided to paint these headlight retainers. The one on the left is marked with a M2 and has bigger mounting bolt holes than the one on the right. Which one do you suppose is "correct"?
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The paint is Almond from TSC. It dries really fast. We'll see how it holds up.
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Frank - I need a pic of the other sides of the rings to provide a better guess.
 
does anyone have a couple of good pictures of there equipment lift for a 682, I work at Kuhn Krause and we build farm equipment, im looking to dig through scrap bin and get enough metal to build a lift/hitch for my 682. thanks
Larry
 
Larry M.
Get your serial # and click the parts lookup above. Enter in 682 for the model and then click Select Assembly. That will give you good pics of the whole mess.
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The 149 is going to need some replacement parts for the hydraulic lift, do I need parts 20 and 21? I know that I will need replacement parts 17, 18, 19 amd 24 due to a PO repair.

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Jim
 
Charlie,
I got under the 71 after mowing today and the detent arm is hitting the dimples perfectly on the creeper gear. I know you read my post and I mentioned that when I put it in LO it will stall the motor. Could this be the pin hanging it up? Anyway I'm going to split it on my days off and see what's going on. I just can't leave it that way. May have to purchase a yoke.
 
Digger, that gives me the basic Idea now I was hoping I could get some one who owns a 682 with lift to post pics (Please!??)
I will post pics of my cub when I get my camera batteries charged back up. Kids like to use it but don't know how to charge batteries!!
Larry
 
James, No you don't really need 20,21 with hydraulic lift.
 
Alex S.
I'm bettin on the spirol pin.

OR!
If you or someone had it apart at some point, it could very well that the slider was put in backwards.
 
20 and 21 are the only way to repeatably return to a fixed height with hyd lift, so IMHO they are NECESSARY for mower work ( when mower is suspended as I prefer them).

I`d get them used from someone on here.....cant be too much....
 
Sorry James, I stand corrected,
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I have never used a hydro lift for cutting grass. All mine are used for is rototilling, and snow blowing.
 
I have 3 12hp engines I am overhauling and one 10 hp. I have 6 carbs I have rebuilt but don't know what size goes with what. All of the carbs came off of either a 10 or 12hp.Any help?
Dan
 
Daniel C. May: I believe that both the 10 HP and 12 HP use the same size carburetor: 26mm throat size. They tell me the size is stamped on many of them.

Regarding Items 20 (Cam Assembly) and 21 (Torque Knob): I agree with Steve Blunier, for the reasons he stipulated. However, not all torque knobs are equal. The thread size and pitch varies. I know that the same knob does NOT fit the wide frames (86, 108/9, 128/9, 149, 169), the Quiet Line models, and the 82 Series (at least as manufactured by CCC below S/n 720,000). I forget which two are the same, but one is different.

Regarding the High Boss Head and cylinder tin:
Wayne
: No, I did not touch or check the new cylinder head. Not having to do anything to it was one of the main reasons I chose to pull it off the shelf.

Doug: Wow! Impressive research. So, as far as we know then, the High Boss Head can only be found installed on Cub Cadet models 100, 102, and 122 up until S/N 315299; from S/N 315300 they used variations of the low boss head.

Harry: That's what I thought you said: Use the tin correct for the head, even if it is incorrect for the tractor. We're both saying the same thing in different ways.

All: Right now, I'm still of a notion to yank the High Boss Head and replace it with the original, Heli-coil repaired, one. The main issue is finding the time to effect the repair. In the meantime, I'm going break out the tin snips so that I don't damage the High Boss Head.
By-the-way, I've had a lot of offers to take this "incorrect" (but relatively rare) head off my hands.
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Jeff: I use a hydro for mowing as well as snow work. I loosen the hand lever slip joint a little and just rest my right forearm on my knee and then just feather the hydro lever back and forth for stopping and turning around. Really works slick!. Mowed once a week or so ago w/the 1000, that I had just done brakes on, and the next morning could hardly walk, my left lower leg calf was so sore!!!.. Didn't realise how out of shape my "clutch" leg was 1 year after being out of the KW and off the road!!! HaHa!

Mowed last nite and I must really have the 50" deck dialed in now. Almost made me want to go out, dig a few holes and break out the golf equipment!!

Dave S
 
DAVE S. - Only one way to keep those left leg muscles in shape.... Drive that 1000 more often!

I remember when I first started driving semi using both feet to hold the clutch down at stop lights & in city traffic at times! After a month or two it wasn't a problem anymore.

Dad always used the clutch to shift even in Road-Rangers. Guess that's maybe why he had bad knees and two artificial hips. I know siding off a snowy, icy round fuel tank when dropping a trailer and landing on his knees had nothing to do with it!
 
Just curious about the 82 series. Could someone please post the distinguishing features of each model (from smallest Cadet all the way up to the 982 Cub Cadet)? Not sure I've ever seen this...
 
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