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Archive through July 03, 2015

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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mconway

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 12, 2010
Messages
176
Location
Hilton, NY
displayname
mike conway
chris and frank....i got some of them too but i admit...using them for oil spout funnels never occurred to me...but i still have them and now have a use for them so mama can't say wth are you keepin' them for....you guys ever get that?
 
Mike,

It is hard on the engine to run it under load and let the RPM's drop that low. Hard to hear from the video but it does not sound as if the engine is up to full rpm. Have you ever checked/set the RPM? Where you mowing at less that full throttle?

I would think we should hear more "bark" out of that engine.

Mower deck looks good, BUT you missed painting the pulleys.

My 60" deck has gray spindle bearing housings that I forgot to paint white. I sprayed primer on them and went on to restoring the rest of the deck. Started to assemble the deck and realized the housings were still gray.

Jim
 
Anyone know where the diagram for head bolt torque specs is? Thought I had a few hard copies, but as usual, I cannot find them. I am working on a K301 AS that is on a 122.
 
OK. New member , first question. I have a Mo# 2 Tiller (Ser # 3130283U 17329 ). It was on ( I believe) a Red 782 tractor. That tractor had a hydraulic lift on the deck and the rear arms. Can you hook up such a tiller to a manual deck lift tractor ( such as the 682 ) ? And is it practical to try to do so ?
 
Kenneth, welcome

Yes you can hook it up just fine and is very normal, but if you do not have what is called a "spring assist" you better have a real strong right arm
 
2 rear arms on tiller? Or 2 rear arms on tractor? If tractor, please post a pic of the tiller, as it may have the cat 0 conversion kit installed.
 
Kenneth,

Welcome.

The 782 & 682 are very similar and any attachments will fit on both. The install to the 682 is a direct fit (except for what Steve mentioned). This is assuming the 682 tractor has the rear lift option and mule drive. The tiller will fit on most IH CC tractors with some specific model years having different PTO drive belt & pulley size and lift setups.

There is a manual section on this forum and the #2 tiller is there.

Jim
 
Scott N.

If you could post pictures of your PTO on and off the tractor that would help us, help you.

If this black PTO you have on now is a CC part, the service manual is accurate, 3 major parts and shimming is required. Any after market PTO's, well that is hard to know what color they are.

Now after nearly 40 years one can never be too sure what is what.

I would check the resistance of the coil to make sure that was not the source/cause of the blue smoke.

Jim
 
Jim,

I will get some pictures. It may be a few days, have quite a lot going on right now, which is why I just switched over to the other tractor.

As for the PTO, the one that we put on is OE IH, as it came from an early production 1650 (cast iron lower grill casting, tin insert steering wheel, bushing in the frame for 3 point, Dad owns the tractor, the engine blew (threw rod) and was replaced with another engine).

When we pull it apart, I will take pics and inspect everything.... but as you suggest, I'm afraid that I have let the "magic smoke" out of the field coil........

We at least have a spare that I an replace it with if needed.....
 
Thanks J Patchett and J Baker. I've got some more research to do.
 
Mike: Charlie likes to do little things like this to keep us on our toes. Seat bumpers and spark plugs are pretty much givens. Coasters have been known to have questions asked about.
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Just brought home a very nice 129 with some minor issues, one being the hydro cooling fan is broke. If I read the manual correctly you remove the dowel pin at the engine drive plate. Remove the bolts at the flex joint, sliding the drive shaft forward. When I went to remove the dowel pin at the engine drive plate hub I noticed it is sheared off on one side. I have attempted to drive out the pin with no luck. Would the easiest next step be to remove the four engine bolts, move the engine forward enough to remove the drive shaft??
 
Hello folks, I'm a new member to the sight and a new owner of a Cub Cadet 1250 Hydro (70's era) that I bought last weekend. It started just fine last week when I mowed with it. I started mowing yesterday and it died after about twenty minutes. Now I have no crank at all. I replaced the battery and the coil and still nothing. I am by no means a mechanic but I really dig this old tractor and hope to own it for a long time. Any help getting this old girl started back up is greatly appreciated. Thank you.
 
If you think you have a problem, don't procrastinate. I thought I just had an oil leak from the pan of my 1250. For the last two years I just filled it up and used it. Today I started to tear into it. Took the hood off. Took the muffler off. Took off the front grill. Pulled the valve off the gas tank trying to take the hose off. Grrrrr! Looked at it and the rubber flange is torn. Double Grrrr! Removed the tank and brackets and decided to see how bad the motor mount rubbers were by ricking the engine. Rubber mounts are nice and tight but the whole engine will tilt left or right!
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If the pan is toast I have an air conditioned 12 horse from another quietline I can cannibalize. Good thing I just used my 1250 to pull an old Bachtold mower backwards. If I had the tiller on I can just imagine the ruckus that would have been raised!

Eugene
 
Michael Smith
You will have to remove the drive pin . might be a good idea to now get the proper tool for the job . the pin punches usually come 5 different sizes and will be all you will need to replace anything on your Cub tractor that has a roll pin. if your pin is broken on one side , pound on the side that has less material and try to get at the center of the pin . moving the center first will allow the roll pin to spin from the center and grow smaller and come out . The pin punches are really worth the $$$ . and yes two bolt above the axle ; tractor needs to be jacked up so axle can be moved so you can reach in with a 9/16" wrench and remove one bolt above each axle. you will also need to remove the two bolt (one each side ) behind the front axle. and slide the engine ahead.replace pin in drive shaft . they are cheaper than the drive cup .
 
Doug Monasmith


Your tractor stopping could be a lot of small things like the gas cap vent plugged . Carb needs a good cleaning , condensers are known to do just that when they get hot. (stop) also bad grounds and or all connections should be cleaned .one thing to get you started is to see after the Cub stops that you still have 12 volts at the coil. and let us know.
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Got a package from Charlie Friday. Thanks for the discount, I`am very pleased and the 149 will like the new wiring harness. I have hopes that my Charging issues will now stop. this spring has brought me a lot of surprises ; so I decided to sell some of my Cubs . I guess being told you have 10 days is a bummer for sure. but I think now I`am on the mend . I did thin the heard here with my 147 . 122, my loader 129 is spoke for and my 100 is promised that after my next kemo I get them running so there owners can drive them away.I have decided to keep my 61 Original ,149 ,125 , CCC 1512 diesel and a project 14 hp wide frame with creeper . that should keep me busy for some time .dang that still leave a 123 and a 109 to find something for them to do .
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Happy 4th of July to everybody, and thanks to everybody who has served our Country. Currently oversea's for work on an island as big as the Continental United States. I miss being Home for the 4th of July!!!!
 
Don Tanner, Michael Smith-

The pin in the drive shaft at the engine is not suppose to be a roll pin. It's a solid hardened pin. They can be hard to get out especially when broken. Also, when going back with a new pin, stick the pin in the freezer and heat the driveshaft then quickly drive in the new pin.

.
 

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