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Archive through January 30, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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When ever I have an engine out I use a bolt like this to squeeze the frame until I can just force the front axle back in. If the pin is wore I will replace it at that time and it seems to stay tight for normal use. If you do a lot of plowing in a rough field where you bang the front axle a lot you may want a bolt to keep tightening it, but for mowing it should last another 30 years.

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Hello everyone,
I'm new to the site and still looking over everything. Looks great and thanks for all the infomation. Check out my site
 
Steve, it was 2hrs, 12min!!

Man, we're getting hammered with snow here. I love it!!
 
Keith, I am still in need of a lengthened drag link. The stock one I put on there only lets me turn left. Are you talking about the April 24th 'event' in Austin, MN? If I don't make it over to plow I will try to come over to watch anyway. I've been focusing more on the motorcycle lately. If we don't bring the tractor we'll probably come with the bike. I had it out today in the new snow. There's no wet salt exposed with the new snow cover and I spent the afternoon slipin' and slidin' around. I had a ball. The pic's off topic but you gotta do something in the winter to keep your sanity (my wife thinks I've lost it already). Later, Al
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Martin, Frank, Wyatt,

Didn't try the MAF cleaning with out some research over on the Ford Truck Enthusiasts forums........general consensus over there is very carefull application of Gummout does the trick.

It started and ran fine after the cleaning (it was very dirty) and idles well. That said, if it starts to run like crap I'll know I pulled an $85 screw-up.......time will tell.

Travis,

2+ huh???? Cool......

Front Axles:

The bolt and the castle nut will both have to be clearanced (by about 1/2 of their thickness) to safely use this mod. The nut and or bolt head will hit the QA cross bar that engages the frame hooks on installed mower mule drives if left full size.
 
Hmmm, three semis lined up on the edge of town putting chains on to get up the hill and out of the valley, down the road a patrol car was slid into. I think I'll choose to not go to work and work on toolboxes, I'll stay home and work with my own!
 
Dennis J.-If I didn't know any better I'd say that was a "classified"! Hey, I could be wrong...but I'm not.
 
Anyone else see Art the kilt man in the Siera Mist commercial during the Super Bowl ?
 
Kevin -

I was thinking of taking a vote on that. I guess that's a problem with one's personal website also screaming BUY SELL TRADE - not sure where the custom Cub Cadets end and the advertizing starts...
 
Alan G-
Good to see you back. Hope to see you at the Spring Break event!

Don-
I missed my own commercial....
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(Message edited by aaytay on February 02, 2004)
 
Bryan, Richard and Ted,
Thanks for the 149 Axel info, I can always count on you guys. I think I would like to go with the Bolt replacing the Pin fix because I am pretty rough on equipment. I mow about 4 acres and maintain a running trail. The Engine is at the dealer who is replacing the PTO Clutch gratis because his first fix did not stick. Would one of you 149 owners measure the distance from the back of the axel channel to the part of the Engine that is at the same level so I can get started on this fix without waiting for the Engine.
Once again, Thanks Guys.
 
Bryan, here's my $0.02: I don't see any actual parts or tractors for sale, though I have not yet checked out all the pages on his site. Looks to me like Dennis is just someone that is rightfully proud of his work.

Wyatt, nice job on the plow, looks like your creeper lost a wheel......
 
Jeff, while I posted the photo, that is not my "Exacto" ruler, I think it belongs to Rev.

Art, do you have to go to work when the school is closed?
 
Anyone need the front HALF of a 782? (grin) The articulated project got some time this weekend, and I might even take some pictures this evening for everyone. I picked up the 782 frame with the dual hydraulics and found that it had every line, and even the quick connects on the front. I'm trying to think how to mount that '82 series lift cylinder to operate the 3-pt... maybe turn the casting upside down and have the cylinder pull for lift.

(no this isn't an AD. The frame's not for sale, as I might need some peice or part from it, and what I don't use I might build into a gen set.)
 
Frank,

On the subject of the broken lift handle button:

Based on what you describe, it appears the correct way of disassembling the lift arm is to:

1. Unscrew the button.
2. Then the rod should come out of the opposite end of the button.

Is this correct?
 
Scott, correct! however if the button is broken off flush or recessed, you may have to cut the bottom part, #5 in the drawing, and pull it apart from the top.
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Quick question: Are the rubber covers on the hydraulic levers of an '82 series replaceable, or are they considered part of the handle?
 
Kraig-
Thanks for reminding me, it wasn't a caster to my creeper (the MAC man would have been my first call!) but it's the wheel to my roll-around seat made by Clarke. Since they're in the UK they've been a little hard to get ahold of. Nice seat, crappy casters.
 
Well, the QA42 is 99% finished... just have to finish welding up the scraper for the bottom...
New bearings, and auger welding/straightening took most of the time. The chute is Eastwood cream powdercoat color, as you can see, is still not a match. I think i'll send a swatch to Eastwood so they can offer the color, after all, they sell JD green....
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Chute rotator--- motor is off of a Lumina, w/ lovejoy coupling... I will post the parts list later
front
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Kraig, here is the NF to WF mod....
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