• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Archive through January 29, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Charlie, ya going to spill the beans on where that gold mine it at. I'll take a couple snowblowers and ahh one of them blades and ahh...
 
Jeff P:
Too bad you don't have a gear drive in the weather. Might start easier. . .

Charlie:
Let's see. I need a creeper, and a tiller, and a. . .
 
Kraig, you keep that cold back there. Don't think it could get here anyway. We have a 50mph+ wind pushing everything your way today. So noisy I cannot hear the radio! Hate these days but we are the ones that built on a hilltop.
 
Ray, and it would probably be easyer to move also. My 149 doesnt have a hydro release lever.
 
For cold weather starting of hydros try the tip that Dave Schmidt suggested here a few years back. Place a magnetic heater on the hydro rearend for a while, it'll make it much easier to turn over. I've done this several times with very good results.

Jerry, you're on the west side of the rockys, not to worry, this air is too cold to get to you.
 
Justin,

Just call Brinly and talk to Nancy - she probably can tell you which point you need if you tell her teh size plow you have, and maybe its approximate age. 877-728-8224. There prices are usually reasonable, but ask about the shipping charge. It can be more than the parts! Of course it may still be cheaper than your dealer. Good luck.
cjm
 
A question for you Engineers, how come the lift bar on the wide frame 3 point (item 5) on this drawing has the curve in it?

15469.jpg


I've checked on everything from a 109 to a 1650 and don't see where it would bind if it was straight.
 
I just figured it was to clear the nut on the inside of the frame for the depth adjustment knob & cam.
 
Dennis,

I thought I recognized that pile. Charlie, if that is the Waunakee gold mine good luck on getting any deals from there. Just bring $$$. BTW I am less than 8 minutes from there. If you are ever in the neighborhood you are welcome to stop by. I can see Waunakee's lights out my back windows at night.

Jim E
 
I have a 1962 Cub Cadet Original up here in Canada. I was blowing snow (we get lots of that stuff up here!) and I'm running into a problem shifting into reverse gear. It's OK in 1st gear. At first it started to slip out of reverse gear into neutral and now I can't get it into reverse gear. It simply gives me a grinding sound when I try to hold the shifter in reverse and let off the clutch. Any ideas what my problem might be and how I can fix it???

Thanks

Mike
 
Kraig,
That's a great looking seat repair from the Cub Connection. I like the 2 part look.
Marcus
 
John W. -

870lbs (370lbs front/500lbs rear) with a 175lb operator and a full tank.

Or so says the <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> propaganda of the day
wink.gif
 
Mike F-
I'm guessing that you might want to just pop off your shifter cover and check the condition of the shifting fork. Frequently the band that clamps it to the shifting rail cracks & breaks allowing for sloppy action or "missing" gears.
 
Charles,

14hp is going in my plow special. Sorry!

Ryan, Love that lift. my crank up lift works just as well. We have got to get together before Amanda pops. And as the looks of it, that isn't far off.

I am at a computer conference this weekend. Catch you all later.
 
Wyatt C,

Thanks for the advice. I'm assuming that the shifting cover is the one with the 8 bolts and also assume there is a gasket underneath. Part of this cover goes under the foundation of the seat ... does the seat foundation need to be removed first or will the shifting cover slip out from underneath the seat foundation? When I lift out the shifting assembly will it come out in one piece or do I have to be concerned about parts popping out at me?

If I find there is a cracked band, then can I use some kind of clamp to replace the cracked band that clamps the fork to the shifting rail or will I need to find the exact part?

Thanks

Mike
 
Mike F. -

Might I suggest you obtain the appropriate parts and service manuals for your tractor before you start digging into it?
 

Latest posts

Back
Top