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Archive through January 28, 2009

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Kraig, Thanks so much for the help!! The diagram I'm sure will be very helpful in my venture!!!

edit... I think the fork may have shifted because when sitting on the tractor I can feel two gears when I push the lever up and down on the left side seems to be 2 and 3 instead of reverse and 1st.
 
Jeffery, here's a photo looking into the transmission at the shift forks and gears. This is what it should look like, I believe, when it's in neutral. The end of the shift lever would fit into the the two shift forks where they appear as a C with a mirror image C. Hope that makes sense. Also, be VERY careful with moving the Cub at this stage, you do not want to chip or break any teeth off of the gears. Hopefully no damage has been done to the gears and it's just a bent or broken shift fork. After re-reading your post, it sounds like the shift lever might have broken off and in the process put it into two gears. When you say the shift lever moves like it's in neutral, do you mean just side to side? Or does it also move forward and back? Do you hear/feel it moving gears?

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Kraig, yes it moves freely side to side when I move it to the right side I can move it freely up and down feels like neutral. but if I try to move it up and down on the left side there is good resistance on the shifter.
 
HEY KENDELL - Yesterday when We were talking about the primed/sealed castings....These rearends in these little Cubbies are pretty complex little castings. And the machining ain't bad either. That PIC Kraig just posted...That little trough that starts on the back or bottom of the pic, runs forward on the left side, then right towards the center catches oil off the gears and lets it flow towards the drilled passages to oil all the bearings. My big FARMALL's are the same way, except the CC transmission would almost fit inside the Super H's transmission except for the axle carriers, and the Super H's transmission would fit in the M.
The 706/806 was the first IH tractor to have fully pressure lubed transmission & rearend with oil passages cast INSIDE the rear castings. They used bent electrical conduit inside the sand in the casting molds then poured the castings. It took the foundry a LONG time to perfect the process.....they were still complaining about all the rework from the early 1960's when I was there in the late 1970's!
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BTW, the transmission in the photo is the one in Art's Plow Special.
 
well, I have not torn the thing apart yet but my brother and I just used a come along to pull the tractor out of the middle of the drive way and back to the barn so its at least out of the weather. I did find out why the clutch wasn't working to well. It appears that in the 10 year period of sitting the clutch had rusted together. So it was only a matter of time before repeated use of the clutch pedal no longer did any good, and the abuse proved to be to much for the (I think its called) "release bearing" number 12 on the diagram given. This bearing assembly now slides freely along the transmission mainshaft. So first thing firsts I will need to get that fixed so we can get the tires to be unlocked so we can move the tractor to a warmer place to take a look at the rest. Well actually the tires still won't spin freely if the tactor is stuck in gear, correct weather I get the clutch working or not? sorry if it seems I'm rambling I really don't know much about tractors I'm better with cars.
 
Does anyone know the bolt size, and pitch for the large bolts on a Brinly sleeve hitch?
 
Greg, does this answer your query? I assume you are referring to Item #1 in the drawing. I believe those are coarse thread 5/8".
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