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Archive through January 28, 2009

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Jim there aint no threads left on that button gizmo-it's smooth.the lift handle still worked and locked/unlocked but I guess after a while like this it won't lock or unlock? what actually does the button do inside handle when pressed in?push a spring lever or just move in-out of a detent in lift rod top plunger?
 
has anyone ever used the krylon plastic paint to paint the fiber portion of the steering wheel??or is there something else to refurbish with?thanks in advance
 
My tire shop uses methanol to fill tractor tires. I haven't had them do a set yet though.
 
Harry M.

The lock button that came off your lift handle is for locking the lift handle button and rod in the down position so that your lift rod can float especially when pushing snow with a front mounted blade. The lock button is just pressed or driven into the hole for it in the handle and the interference fit is suppose to keep it in but sometimes they work themselves out. There's no thread on the lock button. Find a socket that fits over the inner button but engages the outer ring of the lock button. Put some lok-tite or super glue on the other end of the lock button and start it back in the hole, carefully driving the button back in the hole with a small hammer and the socket.
 
Harry M., #4 in your parts lookup pic is the float lockout button. The "button" is press fit into the manual lift handle. If you haven't been using the float your manual lift will still work, minus the float option. I recently installed a new float button on my 128, the old one was broken, but the lift had still been working for years.
 
I sorted out my crankcase breather issue. In a nutshell, I must have had a stuck float that filled the crankcase with gas. That appears to be the culprit. I cleaned the breather and resealed it and then changed the oil. Hopefully, that will be the end of it.
 
Ron;Todd- thanks that'll help. plus I saw "hammer" in there. I can fix anything with a hammer- once.
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Ordered a new trailer this week. Custom build from PJ Trailers, based on their 83" Utility model.

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83" x 18' with last 2' as dovetail with built in 5' ramp storage. Bolt-on (removable) angle iron sides with 4' self storing side load ramps built into the front section. Powder coated with full treated floor and Bulldog jack & coupler. Also added closer cross member spacing (16" OC), LED lighting, spare tire, & brakes w/breakaway. Should be very similar to the this one but without the rear gates and with dovetail.

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4-7 week delivery should put it here just in time for Travis's plow day. There was no way I was going to be able to get the 1872 and 782 both on my 6x12 single axle utility, and this SHOULD be the last utility trailer I need to own. Mulling over a good winch mounting and a good style/place for a permenant tool box for all of the straps, tools, etc. Can't wait until it shows up at the dealer!!!!

Moved some more snow with the 1872 tonight....what a fun toy!!!!! (even if I did have to fix the blade last time around...)
 
Morning all. we had a bit of snow last night, about 5" fell and the turned to freezing rain. well the bright side is there is some snow still down this am so i can get some seat time on my 149. Lol
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Does anyone have a picture or exploded view of the top of the steering column for an Original? The steering wheel moves side to side quite a bit and it looks like pieces are missing.
 
ART - Some how I stumbled onto a CC NF parts book in a file cabinent drawer WAY back when I was at FARMALL...and unfortunately it followed Me home from work one night in late 1981 after I bought My 72. Covers everything from 70/100 up to 147's. During breaks & lunch at FARMALL I used to study parts books like most people read newspapers & magazines.
The 72 does roll around the shop easier with the needle bearings compared to the bushings. If I'd take all the wheel weights off and air the tires up to maximum pressure it would really roll easy. But I only run enough psi to get width contact on the rear tires. I need new frt tires on the 72 bad, the 41 yr old GY's are falling apart. I have the new tires picked out but haven't found a wheel for them I like. I should get two sets because the tires on the 70 are 44 yrs old and won't last much longer either.
 
BRENNAN - Check the pretty box up on top of the forum called "CC Parts LOOK-UP". If the '61-'64 Cub Cadets are like all the rest there's a plastic bushing on the top of the steering tube, which has probably broken apart and fell inside the steel tube. There's a felt washer around there too, can't remember if it goes inside the tube or between the bushing & steering wheel.

STEVE - NICE Trailer. I've heard good things about PJ Trailers. The side ramps look like a good idea! I was never a fan of the beavertail on the back but the trailer I rented to haul the M home two yrs ago had fold-up ramps and the beavertail. Same size as Your's is going to be except 12,000# capacity. Loading a tractor with lots of ground clearance isn't ever a problem but for Cubbies with mower decks, and cars, etc. they're mandatory!
 
Steve, Very nice! Should hold two with a lot of room to spare. Have you looked at the angled tool boxes that fit over the tounge a-frame?
An atv winch set up on a reciver hitch tube could be removed at will and locked in the box. Have seen the outer tube mounted at the front so the "outer" tube stuck "into "the tounge mount box so that noone could get to the pin with the box locked doun. No ome runs off with the winch either way.
 
So how about a bit of Cub humor on this fine Thursday morning. A co-worker was instructing his 12 year old son the art of snow plowing with his 1450 yesterday. The lad was doing fine clearing a section of their driveway when he inadvertantly backed off the side. Normally that's alright, but where he was had about a 2 ft elevation change to the yard below. No injuries (except to his pride) but it took a few hours to get the 1450 back up out of the snow.

So that got me to thinking, there have to be some good stories out there of bonehead moves on a Cubby. I think we should all tell ours to show young Derek it can happen to the best of us. Here's mine... When I was 13, my Dad and I were helping an Uncle with some yard work. We were mowing in formation (he on his 1650, and I on my 100) and Dad had told me to stay a little behind him on the non discharge side while we cut. I did as I was told, and stayed right behind and off to the side, and promptly ran over a young evergreen tree that was in the way. My Uncle was minorly upset, and luckily the tree is still there 17 years later.

So let's here 'em, your oops moments on a tractor!!
 
Jim C., I broke the right front spindle on my parent's 125 when I was ~10 years old. I ran it into a red pine tree trunk while mowing the lawn. Red pine is still there and the 125 is now my #1 125. Here's a photo from 1975, a few years after the broken spindle incident. I circled the red pine. That's me in the drivers seat with my youngest brother Kent in my lap and my brother Kory on the bike. (Farmall C in the background now belongs to one of my cousins.)

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Can anyone give me any pointers/pics of how to free up the clutch on my 128? It broke while plowing snow yesterday. The gear shift moves as if it is in neutral no mater where I put it but the tractor is stuck in gear so i can't push it. Any help would be great!
 
Jeffery, sounds like you may have broken a shifting fork, that or you somehow managed to get the forks out of place and it's in two gears at the same time. You'll have to remove the fender deck and then remove the shift lever assembly to inspect the shift forks and gears. I'm a Hydro guy, I could very well be wrong so before you go to the trouble of tearing your 128 apart might be a good idea to wait for a second opinion.

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Jeffrey-

I'll second Kraig; It's time for the fenders and shifter to come off. The nice thing is, it will probably be very obvious once you have removed the shifter. Let us know how it goes.
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