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Archive through January 23, 2015
- Thread starter dfrisk
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
jlspicer
Well-known member
I remember seeing that cord versus thrower pic, too. Bet Kraig could find it.
Yeah Jeff,
I need to work on the blower this spring. Wanna clean it up, maybe paint it, and still gotta find the tractor mount and lift crank/rod for it. Too many projects, too little time............
Keith,
Looking good!
Yeah Jeff,
I need to work on the blower this spring. Wanna clean it up, maybe paint it, and still gotta find the tractor mount and lift crank/rod for it. Too many projects, too little time............
Keith,
Looking good!
jchamberlin
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2010
- Messages
- 1,842
- Location
- Farmville, North Carolina
- displayname
- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Jason Sosbe: I guess IH added the mark on the drive shaft after fielding questions like yours on their "original" version of the Garden Tractor. As Harry enlightened us, there were no marks on the shafts installed in the first Cub Cadets. Congrats on the purchase of the creeper; I'm sure you laid down some serious coin for it.
However, I'm not sure I would cut my original shaft if I were you; instead, I would probably save it for a possible re-install.
I recommend purchasing some rod of the same diameter as your current drive shaft, available at your local tractor supply store, and cutting and drilling it to fit.
I know I have purchased a "Port-a-Drill" attachment for my 1/4" hand drill on two occasions which had integral V-Blocks like Doug Barnett mentions. It would work great for drilling the holes in your shaft.
One thing though, you would probably want to drill the holes first, and then trim the ends of the shaft back to get the proper spacing for the hole-to-end dimension. The reason being that the Port-A-Drill, at least, needs an inch or so on either side of the hole to hold the piece and keep it centered under the drill bit.
Just a thought. If I have time tomorrow, I'll post a picture of my "Port-A-Drill." I think they're still available.
If you plan on working your Original hard, you may want to consider getting a harder, stronger material for the shaft. I know Charlie's shafts are stronger than the original equipment.
However, I'm not sure I would cut my original shaft if I were you; instead, I would probably save it for a possible re-install.
I recommend purchasing some rod of the same diameter as your current drive shaft, available at your local tractor supply store, and cutting and drilling it to fit.
I know I have purchased a "Port-a-Drill" attachment for my 1/4" hand drill on two occasions which had integral V-Blocks like Doug Barnett mentions. It would work great for drilling the holes in your shaft.
One thing though, you would probably want to drill the holes first, and then trim the ends of the shaft back to get the proper spacing for the hole-to-end dimension. The reason being that the Port-A-Drill, at least, needs an inch or so on either side of the hole to hold the piece and keep it centered under the drill bit.
Just a thought. If I have time tomorrow, I'll post a picture of my "Port-A-Drill." I think they're still available.
If you plan on working your Original hard, you may want to consider getting a harder, stronger material for the shaft. I know Charlie's shafts are stronger than the original equipment.
Jason S.,
I agree with Jeremiah. He says in his post: "If you plan on working your Original hard, you may want to consider getting a harder, stronger material for the shaft."
I would like to suggest using #4140 shaft steel stock to make your drive shaft. That steel, in the diameter that you need, should be available from any good machine shop. That machine shop can make that shaft for you, if you give them the length that you need and the diameter of hole and placement on the shaft.
It sounds as if you have an interesting project.
I agree with Jeremiah. He says in his post: "If you plan on working your Original hard, you may want to consider getting a harder, stronger material for the shaft."
I would like to suggest using #4140 shaft steel stock to make your drive shaft. That steel, in the diameter that you need, should be available from any good machine shop. That machine shop can make that shaft for you, if you give them the length that you need and the diameter of hole and placement on the shaft.
It sounds as if you have an interesting project.
Brian - The best driveshaft material is a "Pre-hardened 4140 cold finished round bar, typical 30-32 Rockwell C hardness. A plain annealed bar would be too soft. The 30-32 Rockwell C is right at the point of almost being too hard to machine. Best to use new or freshly sharpened drill bits and saw blades.
When you compare material spec's, a material called "StressProof" is very comparable to the 4140 pre-hardened. Stress proof is a registered trade name by LaSalle Steel for a severely reduced cold drawn 1144 steel bar that makes excellent bolts and shafting. But every steel supplier will have their equivalent material.
You compare the 4140 prehard and Stressproof to the 1018 cold finished used on OEM driveshafts, the better materials should last just about forever!
When you compare material spec's, a material called "StressProof" is very comparable to the 4140 pre-hardened. Stress proof is a registered trade name by LaSalle Steel for a severely reduced cold drawn 1144 steel bar that makes excellent bolts and shafting. But every steel supplier will have their equivalent material.
You compare the 4140 prehard and Stressproof to the 1018 cold finished used on OEM driveshafts, the better materials should last just about forever!
jlspicer
Well-known member
Kraig,
Thanks. There's that cord reel pic I was thinking of.
Jeff,
Sounds like a plan. Have to figure something out when it get warmer. Guess I better check the weather. Snow today/tomorrow?
Thanks. There's that cord reel pic I was thinking of.
Jeff,
Sounds like a plan. Have to figure something out when it get warmer. Guess I better check the weather. Snow today/tomorrow?
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,377
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Jeremiah, Brian, et al - the driveshaft for an Original has a rubber rag joint coupling welded on it.
glippert
Well-known member
I've been pushing my luck so far this winter by not getting my snow thrower mounted on the 782 until today. I know Charlie will be proud to see that so I greased it well enough before mounting it to "fling" some of the grease.
Oh, by the way, electric cords aren't the only thing the throwers like to eat; they enjoy dog tie-out cables, too!
I hate it when the kids bring their dogs along when they come home to visit!
Oh, by the way, electric cords aren't the only thing the throwers like to eat; they enjoy dog tie-out cables, too!
I hate it when the kids bring their dogs along when they come home to visit!
I was thinking about creating a wing blade of some sorts to throw the snow from the edge of the sidewalk while running the snow blade. If the snow berm is higher than about 6 inches the snow falls back towards the tractor tires. I don't want a wider blade just a blade to shave the snow berm at an angle. I googled snow blade wings and other search phrases but did not find any pictures. Here is a rough drawing of what I am talking about. The black boxes are the front tires. The top picture is the tractor coming at you or driving away. The bottom picture is a top view. The top picture shows the wing blade cut at an angle maybe 45 degrees. And the bottom blade shows a more shallow angle to get more leverage without pushing the tractor to the right.
Has anyone seen a wing blade design like this?
Has anyone seen a wing blade design like this?
glippert
Well-known member
Jeff - The dog (and kids) had already returned to Nebraska, but the cable was left out and new snow fell... The other end was tied around a rail post on the steps of the deck. My bride thought it was great when the old post snapped off, because it prompted me to replace the deck the following Spring.
Terry - I like looks of that wing. I would think if you use BRS, the proposed angle of the wing would prevent too much side force on the tractor. Are you planning to weld it to the blade, or devise some sort of removable mounting system?
Terry - I like looks of that wing. I would think if you use BRS, the proposed angle of the wing would prevent too much side force on the tractor. Are you planning to weld it to the blade, or devise some sort of removable mounting system?
Terry B.
Meyer puts wings on there plow blades.
So your great idea would be something like this without the lower black rubber part.
Which IMHO would be pretty dang cool!
Meyer puts wings on there plow blades.
So your great idea would be something like this without the lower black rubber part.
Which IMHO would be pretty dang cool!
Jeff B.
Only cause you couldn't find your crayons!
Only cause you couldn't find your crayons!
