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Archive through January 23, 2005

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Betsy -

Nah, we wouldn't laugh, honest!

The fill plug is in the back of the tractor. In this picture, it's the pipe plug with the square hole. You can use a 3/8" extension and a ratchet to remove/install the plug. Oil should be filled up to the threads. And yes, Hy-Tran is what should be used. Available from our sponsors or a Case/<FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> dealer.

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Depending on when the last time the fluid was changed, you might want to go the whole route and follow the instructions in our FAQ (link is above) for changing the fluid and filter.

Would probably be a good idea to check it for leaks, too.
 
I think a great solution to the "pulley size" issue would be to get a variable/adjustable sheave/pulley so you are able to adjust according to snow conditons.

THEY"RE A LITTLE PRICEY, around $60.00 but it's still cheaper than a day at Disney Land, and in my opinion a lot more fun!
Marcus
 
Marcus -

WTH, do you buy stuff for the government or what???
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McMaster has them for $20-$25!
 
A few pics of the 148 project in it's infant stages...assembled for a check fit of the MWSC parts , grass screen modifications, engine sheetmetal mods, etc.

I'm thinking of putting the hyd. pump above the starter in the same place as the S/G...we'll see (that's why it's mocked-up right mow....figuring it all out
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Question for all,
How well would a QA42A snowthrower fit on a X82 series? It seems that I once heard that the discharge shoot hits the grill. I know the 82's have a wider pully but wouldn't the narrower belt just run lower in the pully?
 
Tom H. -

No CPE-2? I'm absolutely shocked!!
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With a proper belt, pulley and lift arm bracket, it says it will fit 482-782. And you WILL need the curved upper links and you HAVE to point them downward...
 
Bryan,
Sounds like a good price. How's the quality?

A buddy of mine just spent $60.00 for one to be used in a different application. Actually for changing the gearing in garden tractor pulls.
 
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The picture posted (I hope) does not accurately represent the gear box on my QA36A. The shaft for the belt pulley and bevel gear exstends into the gear box almost to shaft of the ring gear. the probelm I have is broken keyway stock (twice). the key stock seems to only go in the bevel gear maybe 1/4 " with a total lenght of 3/4", most of key stock is not in the gear. this does not seem to be enough engagement with the bevel gear. Has the shaft move inward toward the center of the gear box?
 
I know, I know.
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It just seems to me I heard something about some clearance issues. How about the pulley thing? I'm thinking Snow thrower/launcher on the smoker.
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Got a question for the snow thrower experts,
I removed my auger from my snow thrower. I wire brushed the inside with the angle grinder. I sprayed the inside with graphite paint. All that went well.
However, the body of the thrower is dented in the center just behind the auger about 4 inches below the bottom of the chute. Probably from a rock getting jammed between the straight paddle and the body. Do you think this will impede the throw? What is the furthest distance the auger should be from the body? Or doesn't it matter?
I might need to weld in a patch to fix it. I would rather not.
 
Tom H. -

Clearance issues - that's why you need the curved upper links - so they don't whack the grille casting.

78 055 C1 pulley
78 056 C1 belt
78 057 C1 bracket

Hmmm - I sense a pattern here...
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Marcus -

Couldn't tell ya cuz I don't have one. I'm in IT, not MRO. I just report the news, you decide.
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I'm looking to clean out the carb without disassembling.
Whats better Marvels Mystery Oil or Sea Foam?
Do they do the same thing?
 
I am running a "dash" of both in my gas. About 3-4 onces per 5 gallons of gas + the Gunk brand lead sub. Please let me know if this is not recomended. Thanks Tyler
 
Tyler T. -

Well, it's your money, but the Kohler manual says unleaded regular is just fine.
 
Wyatt- you're right-on about the minimum-diameter issue for a belt type! The larger the belt-type, the larger the minimum sheave diameter.

Besides accellerating the belt's breakdown, a smaller-diameter sheave runs on much less surface-contact... which means it also increases wear and stress on the sheave, and reduces the amount of torque delivery available. It also means higher tension is required to get tractive-effort, which increases wear-and-tear even more on bearings, bushings, and the belts and sheaves.
I dealt with all these issues when I did the toothed-belt stuff on my hydraulic pump... event here, a minimum wrap-diameter is required, and a minimum-number-of-teeth in contact to transmit the required belt-tension to sheave. The best belt-drives, are the ones that use the largest possible sheaves on BOTH the drive, and driven ends... greatest tractive-effort with least amount of belt-tension, yields greatest HP transfer and least amount of bearing load.

And you proved me wrong- here, I thought "Glorious Display of Twisted Steel" had to involve Composition 4, DUW's, or Shape Charges... :) Let's get Kraig's handi-cam down here, shoot some pictures, and mock-up a QA on front of one of Don Vogt's 'warmed up' machines, shoot some 'revvin' up' clips, show a few 'test clips' pitching stuff into the auger... then a full-wrap to WOT, and digitally simulate the 'twisted steel' effect... Send me some sound-bites and I'll create the (gut-wrenching fingernails-on-chalkboard automotive-grenade-explosion) sound.
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I know that I am only 17; but I really believe in the leaded fuel. I have used it for the last 3-4 years and my motors run WAY cooler. Two days ago I accidentally put unleaded in my 123 and blew a *%^$ head gasket. But that is just my opinion. What does everybody else have in their gas? Tyler
 
Dave K....Can we test these "new generation" snow throwers/blowers by feeding 2x4's into them like they do in forage chopper testing?? Toothpicks anyone???.....
 
HELP!
Looking to build a loader for one of my cubs, got this pump, it clockwise rotaion, max 2500psi, 3.15 gpm @ 1000psi @ 1800rpm & 6.3 gpm @ 1000psi @ 3600rpm, will this be a good pump for a loader or will it be to little ?
 
Lonny,

You have the PERFECT pump......stop your search and start building the loader.
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I have a 3/6gpm pump planned for my loader project (whenever I get back to it
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