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Archive through January 22, 2016
- Thread starter kmcconaughey
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
hydroharry
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- Jul 22, 2007
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- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Tom Choo Choo S - I gotta see your pics. I never heard of using a wire wheel on tires. Can't understand what you were removing. I didn't post what I like to use, but typically use "wheel" cleaner, scrub brush and elbow grease. Then let it dry and usually don't need to apply any tire black shinny stuff unless they are spotted.
Great Gazookies the 126 is ALIVE again and it plowed snow for the first time here on my place!
I began with replacing the sparkplug..No spark.
I replaced the sparkplug wire...No spark.
Checked for voltage from main harness feed to + side of coil. Meter read 12.7 volts.
Took the points cover off, rechecked the gap, still @ a "tight" 0.021 and clean looking..Still dragged a folded up dollar bill through the contacts to clean them, looked about the same as before..Turned the engine over..No spark.
Checked the continuity of the feed wire from - side of coil to points. Got continuity.
So...Either the condenser has bit the dust, or the NAPA coil has suffered an early death,..Don't matter..
I replaced the 3 month old Kohler condenser with a new Kohler condenser AND replaced the 3 month old NAPA Premium coil with the 83 buck NEW Kohler ignition coil and got fat spark at the plug..
Condenser or coil? Not sure, but it started on about the 4th revolution of the SG and ran great..
I plowed the the drive and parking area, displacing about 6-8 inches of snow with zero issues.. The new 23-10.5-12 turfs each filled with 5 gallons of-20 windshield washer fluid and a pair 2 link chains work really well..I spun a bit in a couple of places, but nothing major...I have a bunch of smelter lead ingots, I thinking of bagging up in a nylon calf feed bag and placing it under the seat of the 126..I'd guess that would stop all slippage..
I want to thank all you guys for sharing your wisdom and ideas...Why those 3 month old ignition parts failed is a mystery..
I'm sticking with OEM from now on..
Regards
John
I began with replacing the sparkplug..No spark.
I replaced the sparkplug wire...No spark.
Checked for voltage from main harness feed to + side of coil. Meter read 12.7 volts.
Took the points cover off, rechecked the gap, still @ a "tight" 0.021 and clean looking..Still dragged a folded up dollar bill through the contacts to clean them, looked about the same as before..Turned the engine over..No spark.
Checked the continuity of the feed wire from - side of coil to points. Got continuity.
So...Either the condenser has bit the dust, or the NAPA coil has suffered an early death,..Don't matter..
I replaced the 3 month old Kohler condenser with a new Kohler condenser AND replaced the 3 month old NAPA Premium coil with the 83 buck NEW Kohler ignition coil and got fat spark at the plug..
Condenser or coil? Not sure, but it started on about the 4th revolution of the SG and ran great..
I plowed the the drive and parking area, displacing about 6-8 inches of snow with zero issues.. The new 23-10.5-12 turfs each filled with 5 gallons of-20 windshield washer fluid and a pair 2 link chains work really well..I spun a bit in a couple of places, but nothing major...I have a bunch of smelter lead ingots, I thinking of bagging up in a nylon calf feed bag and placing it under the seat of the 126..I'd guess that would stop all slippage..
I want to thank all you guys for sharing your wisdom and ideas...Why those 3 month old ignition parts failed is a mystery..
I'm sticking with OEM from now on..
Regards
John
mgwin
Well-known member
Hydro-static question: After moving TOMCAT around with Hydro detents pressed DOWN, now the LEFT one is stuck down when not running OR when running. RIGHT one is fine. No crud...no paint. Wuzzup? Locomotiveman Tom
Sometimes they stick. Spray some PB Blaster around the button and let it soak. Start it up and put it in gear it might pop up.
mgwin
Well-known member
mgwin
Well-known member
My .02 worth "Resistance is futile" for most ignition coil testing and most other electrical testing. Passing low voltage through a circuit with out any load will not test it.
If you have the proper voltage to the batt side of the coil and the neg. side is being triggered and you have no spark = bad coil. In addition the coil may pass an omhs test but not putout enough voltage. That is where the thexton tester is nice, you can open the gap to test the output of the coil.
The only true test of any electrical circuit is with the electrical load on it that it was designed to work under. Many times I've check for voltage on a circuit with out load it passed, but under load it failed. It only take two or three strands of wire to pass an ohms test or pass no load voltage.
If you have the proper voltage to the batt side of the coil and the neg. side is being triggered and you have no spark = bad coil. In addition the coil may pass an omhs test but not putout enough voltage. That is where the thexton tester is nice, you can open the gap to test the output of the coil.
The only true test of any electrical circuit is with the electrical load on it that it was designed to work under. Many times I've check for voltage on a circuit with out load it passed, but under load it failed. It only take two or three strands of wire to pass an ohms test or pass no load voltage.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Doug-
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
Many times I've check for voltage on a circuit with out load it passed, but under load it failed. It only take two or three strands of wire to pass an ohms test or pass no load voltage.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
<font size="-1">Your test light will be even less useful than an multimeter in that situation. Two or three strands of wire will show continuity, just like an undamaged wire. Depending on the gauge and length of the wire, a few strands of wire may show up as a slightly higher resistance on an ohmmeter. As an example, the original ground cable on my 782 went bad; I discovered this by checking the resistance of the cable after cleaning the ends. It had continuity, but also about half an ohm of resistance, which a 10" length of 8 gauge wire should not have. That would not have been detectable with a test light, and I was not interested in randomly replacing all of the ground and positive cables until the problem was solved.
Also, any component that is supposed to have some finite amount of resistance, like a coil winding, or field/armature of a starter/generator are impossible to check with a test light, since it can't tell the difference between a small, finite resistance and a short.
Nic B.-
It's much easier to steer without 150 lbs on the front wheels, and since I wanted the ball far enough from the front of the tractor to allow the tractor to steer the trailer tight enough to be perpendicular to it, it is far enough forward that it would probably take a lot of weight off the rear.
If it breaks, I'll add more gussets. Seems pretty stout as is. Time will tell.
</font>
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
Many times I've check for voltage on a circuit with out load it passed, but under load it failed. It only take two or three strands of wire to pass an ohms test or pass no load voltage.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
<font size="-1">Your test light will be even less useful than an multimeter in that situation. Two or three strands of wire will show continuity, just like an undamaged wire. Depending on the gauge and length of the wire, a few strands of wire may show up as a slightly higher resistance on an ohmmeter. As an example, the original ground cable on my 782 went bad; I discovered this by checking the resistance of the cable after cleaning the ends. It had continuity, but also about half an ohm of resistance, which a 10" length of 8 gauge wire should not have. That would not have been detectable with a test light, and I was not interested in randomly replacing all of the ground and positive cables until the problem was solved.
Also, any component that is supposed to have some finite amount of resistance, like a coil winding, or field/armature of a starter/generator are impossible to check with a test light, since it can't tell the difference between a small, finite resistance and a short.
Nic B.-
It's much easier to steer without 150 lbs on the front wheels, and since I wanted the ball far enough from the front of the tractor to allow the tractor to steer the trailer tight enough to be perpendicular to it, it is far enough forward that it would probably take a lot of weight off the rear.
If it breaks, I'll add more gussets. Seems pretty stout as is. Time will tell.
</font>
Matt G. let me clarify, I would not be checking for voltage with a test light - unless its all I had, I would be using a volt meter at that point of testing. I would not depend on a ohm meter for a definitive test of good or bad. Most of the testing I do on cars at this point I am using a lab scope doing current ramp, voltage drop and wave form diagnosis, but most people don't have a lab scope and on basic ignition testing you don't need one.
I'm just trying to show people that there is a quick way to test the basic points Ignition that works, heck it even works on pcm controlled coil over plug ignition systems
I guess I just find that an ohm meter is not the best test. Too many time over the years I've ohm tested this or that component as per the diagnostic instructions and it passes, and if all else fails "replace with a know good part and retest" or the the part fails the test I replace it and the problem is not fixed.
I'm just trying to show people that there is a quick way to test the basic points Ignition that works, heck it even works on pcm controlled coil over plug ignition systems
I guess I just find that an ohm meter is not the best test. Too many time over the years I've ohm tested this or that component as per the diagnostic instructions and it passes, and if all else fails "replace with a know good part and retest" or the the part fails the test I replace it and the problem is not fixed.
nbextermueller
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 18, 2007
- Messages
- 909
- displayname
- Nic Bextermueller
Tom, take it out and find out. It just unscrews.
Tom-
Why don't you just take that relief valve out and go over it with some solvent from both ends??? Remember to cover the hole with a clean rag. I've done it several times. I've had them "bleed" rust from around the button but keep doing it until it is clean and works in and out easily. This will also tell you if it simply needs rebuilding/replacing but I bet a good cleaning will get that button to poppin'!
.
Why don't you just take that relief valve out and go over it with some solvent from both ends??? Remember to cover the hole with a clean rag. I've done it several times. I've had them "bleed" rust from around the button but keep doing it until it is clean and works in and out easily. This will also tell you if it simply needs rebuilding/replacing but I bet a good cleaning will get that button to poppin'!
.
Charlie- The cast iron light mounts for an original that you posted a pic of I think are from an old two poppin johnny tractor. Part A2611R. As far as the bent tube being different sizes- some of the big Ih tractors may have used a similar mount like that???
Nate
Nate
hydroharry
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- Jul 22, 2007
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- 4,377
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Tom S - just to make sure you understand, the "buttons" don't come out by unscrewing. The guys are talking about unscrewing the entire valve and taking it out.
I'm gonna have to partially disagree in removing the entire valve to start with. I say this because once you have the valve removed if you push the button down you'll probably have a heck of a time to get it to come up.
If I were you I'd take that aluminum wire wheel you showed a pick of, and buzz around the button and top of the valve to brighten it up and get all the rust off you can. Make sure you have the button all the way up when you do it and try to keep as much dusty crude away from the area where the button slides. Clean the entire top off and then apply some solvent or PB blaster or similar and rotate the button by hand - don't push it down yet just rotate it in a circular motion. Wipe it off and then apply a little more solvent and see if it soaks down into the area where the button slides. Then I'd begin to push the button down a little and pull it back up. Don't push it all the way down, just a little and pull it back up. Work it back and forth a few times. Then you can push it down all the way. If it stays down on it's own you'll have to start the engine to get it to pop up again. If it doesn't pop up then you'll have to move the hydro lever back and forth a few times and usually you can get it to pop up. Make sure you have room in back and front of the tractor in case it does move. If this still doesn't work you can try rocking the tractor, and if it still doesn't work then you can try throwing the hydro lever back and forth really quickly to see if you can get the tractor to jump. AGAIN - MAKE SURE you have nothing in front or back of the tractor in case it does move or lurches on you.
Then once this is all done and it hopefully seems to be working good, you can decide if you want to remove the valves to have a look. They can be rebuilt even tho the Service Manual says they can't - but it takes a machinist to do it - and you can probably buy a used one for less.
By the way, IH changed to an automatic release valve (no buttons) during mid production of the Quiet Line series. If you continue to have trouble with one valve sticking I'd recommend finding 2 good used auto release valves from a Quiet Line unit (or I guess even an 82 series assuming they were also the same).
I'm gonna have to partially disagree in removing the entire valve to start with. I say this because once you have the valve removed if you push the button down you'll probably have a heck of a time to get it to come up.
If I were you I'd take that aluminum wire wheel you showed a pick of, and buzz around the button and top of the valve to brighten it up and get all the rust off you can. Make sure you have the button all the way up when you do it and try to keep as much dusty crude away from the area where the button slides. Clean the entire top off and then apply some solvent or PB blaster or similar and rotate the button by hand - don't push it down yet just rotate it in a circular motion. Wipe it off and then apply a little more solvent and see if it soaks down into the area where the button slides. Then I'd begin to push the button down a little and pull it back up. Don't push it all the way down, just a little and pull it back up. Work it back and forth a few times. Then you can push it down all the way. If it stays down on it's own you'll have to start the engine to get it to pop up again. If it doesn't pop up then you'll have to move the hydro lever back and forth a few times and usually you can get it to pop up. Make sure you have room in back and front of the tractor in case it does move. If this still doesn't work you can try rocking the tractor, and if it still doesn't work then you can try throwing the hydro lever back and forth really quickly to see if you can get the tractor to jump. AGAIN - MAKE SURE you have nothing in front or back of the tractor in case it does move or lurches on you.
Then once this is all done and it hopefully seems to be working good, you can decide if you want to remove the valves to have a look. They can be rebuilt even tho the Service Manual says they can't - but it takes a machinist to do it - and you can probably buy a used one for less.
By the way, IH changed to an automatic release valve (no buttons) during mid production of the Quiet Line series. If you continue to have trouble with one valve sticking I'd recommend finding 2 good used auto release valves from a Quiet Line unit (or I guess even an 82 series assuming they were also the same).
Tom- Most times they go bad and start leaking fluid out from a around the buttons. Mactech in Ohio rebuilds them pretty inexpesively.
