• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Archive through January 22, 2014

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

digger

Administrator
Staff member
Administrator
Moderator
IHCC Sponsor
IHCC Supporter
Joined
Jun 22, 2002
Messages
16,319
Location
Park Rapids Mn.
displayname
Digger
The big yellow book arrived today.
282923.jpg
 
Charlie-
I love the pic of the Originals buried in the snow. <font size="-2">(Well, except for the part about leaving your tractors out in the elements, but we'll cut you some slack on that part.) LOL</font>
 
I repurposed one of those books a few years back when the chemistry department got in a new one.
Great book to have.
 
Lucas J

I ran into the same problem trying to install my 54" blade on my diesel. I came to the conclusion that the pivot point of the blade where it attaches must be the correct height off the ground. If that point is to high the nose of the blade when angled will dig and if to low the back of the angled blade will. I had to do some measuring with the blade not angled and then angled to see what the correct number should be. When you get that number the blade when angled will sit flat on the ground. Tires or over or under inflation will change this . so check your tire pressure before you change the height of the sub frame off the ground . BTDT I hope this makes some sense to you. the 1862 sub frame on my 1512 was in need of a few inches cut of to get the measurement correct. it cut in on the back edge of the blade when angled. Seat time for me in the am. I just hope it warms up a little.
 
Ummmmm..... Where's the action shots Charlie?? Better yet, what yellow & white tractor do you have to play with now?
worthless.gif
 
That is a nice "calendar" picture of those IH Cub Cadet Originals! If there was ever such a piece put together, I would give 15-20$ for a nice calendar with a short, descriptive background.

Guess I should open up the NF hydro pump I bought 3 years ago to see what kind of damage is in there. Any chances of not having any broken parts? Bet that McMaster-Carr would have replacement items for it! Guess the first step is the most challenging one......to remove the drive pulley with out damage....

What a picture of the Originals!
happy.gif
 
Lucas, Are you saying that you do not want to fully drop te plow because you will dig up the stones with the foot but if you don't drop it then the corner of the plow digs in anyway?
I will be faced with this scenario at my future homestead. I'm thinking of replacing the small foot with almost a ski. I hope it will have a big enough footprint so it doesn't dig so this way I can fully drop the Blade.
You wont get all the snow up but I hope that will solve the digging in issue.
 
I found a solution to the gravel driveway problem long ago. I take tread section of an old steel belted tire and cut a strip about 4 inches wide and as long as the blade from the center. Believe it or not a porta-band will cut through it like butter. Remove the scraper edge, put the tire strip in it's place leaving about 1 1/2 to 2 inches below the bottom, clamp the tire strip in place and drill it out using the scraper mounting holes then place the scraper over the tire strip, mount it using 3/4 inck longer bolts. If you let the blade run free the lower tire edge will beld slightly but it's stiff enough to remove the snow without taking too much gravel. When the tire wears out keep your eyes on the local highways, there's always free replacements laying by the roadsides especially in hot summers.
 
Hey everyone thought I'd post a couple of pic's and show that cubbing is alive and well out here on the west coast. These are from our cabin on the Olympic peninsula last weekend. The first shows what we started with Friday afternoon and how it looked by Sunday pm
282932.jpg

282933.jpg

These are of the hill side that I excavated and found a stump that needed to go
282934.jpg

282935.jpg

The next are of the 106 removing the stump, took about 45 minutes
282936.jpg

282937.jpg

282938.jpg

Last but not lest is my wife Kerri wearing her pink carhart coat, carhart pants and muck boots down by the river were we found all that river rock
282939.jpg
 
Doug B - Impressive!!!!!!!!

I see what appears to be a foot pedal on each side of the tractor. 106 I think is a gear drive, so it wouldn't a foot controlled hydro - I'm thinking split breaks of some sort? What's going on there.

Nice bucket loader - great looking tires on the rear and front and I see you've rightly figured out the chevron tread runs backwards to what one might otherwise use to get the grip when steering.

Very nice!

greenthumb.gif
 
Bill J, Thanks, the added pedal operates the hydraulic brakes, while the stock pedal operates the clutch. The stock mechanical brakes weren't up to the task of stopping this heavy of a machine, especially with a loaded bucket, disengaging the drive train and loosing compression braking while going down hill wasn't my idea of a good design, so I added the separate brake pedal.
 
Thanks for the pics Doug Barnett.

A few years back I bought a CC 122 with a Quik-Way loader.

You can see some pics here:

http://halitelane.com/cub_cadet.html

I've noticed the same problem with the brakes. I have some questions:

1)Does your tractor have external brakes?

2)Where did you get the hydraulic components?

3)What do you use for a parking brake?

I use Calcium Chloride solution in the tires plus cast weights in a rear mounted weight box. I find this a little light. What do you use for rear mounted weights?

Thanks,
Lee
 
Doug, very impressive,It is always cool to see Cubs at work.
Whos the big guy wearing the fur coat in the second picture
 
Ken, yes my blade is level when it is at ground level, but my driveway is very steep and I try to feather the blade over it keeping it partially raised.


Tony H, yes. If l let the blade bottom out and get level all the gravel goes with the snow, if I try to kinda float the blade with my arm the corner on one side hangs down and pushes the gravel. I saw something on here a while back where somewon made a big ski for the bottom of the blade to prevent this from happening. I also thought making some sort of quick attach point for a small wheel on one side that can easily be taken off if I need to push straight.

Never had this problem with my Original. It's pre-spring trip blade stays level at all positions.
 
Jeff B. that's Tank in the red fur coat and if you look to the right, the black lump is Dozer. Tank weighs about 135lbs and Dozer about 100lbs.

Lee E. the 106 has external disc, I adapted front calipers from an atv to the original mechanical mounts and used a rear atv master cylinder. I used the stock atv hoses to plumb it all together. I used the lift arm to hold the brake pedal down for a parking brake.
In the third pic that I posted you can see the suit case weights 6x42lbs, I have a 180lbs of wheel weights, plus those big 26in tires are full of washer fluid adding about another 200lbs.
If I could figure out how to put more weight on I would, but for now that's all I've got beside my fat ass.
 
Welcome back Doug,, long time no see. Hope you are keeping Brooks show going.
 
Charlie,, If you had left a blade on one of those CCO's it would come right out of there in third gear!
angel.gif
 
Back
Top