Richard W: Traditionally, ignition problems are diagnosed from the spark plug backwards to the primary circuit. For instance: If you have no spark, try a new spark plug, or clean the one you have. If a new spark plug doesn't help, check the coil wire or replace it. If that doesn't help, ohm out the coil. If the coil checks out, check to see if the points are working. The points serve to ground the negative side of the coil when they are closed. So what you need to be checking is continuity to ground at the negative terminal of the coil. With the points closed there should be continuity to ground, with the points open, there should be no continuity; or better, with the battery in the circuit, you should read approximately 12 volts at both the negative and positive sides of the coil with the points open (the negative side should be slightly less because of the ballast resistor inside the coil).
If you've already performed a diagnostic on the PointSaver, it shouldn't be your problem, the only thing left is checking to be sure its wired into the system correctly and has a good ground if the unit requires it.
Those are my first thoughts after reading your post.
Thomas K: Thanks for sharing the video, I enjoyed it, like Charlie said, you seem to know how to use it. Great resourcefulness on finding the 104 for less than $100; I could learn a thing or two from you; but like Lew Palma, I think it is best to never, ever, tell'em what you paid (although I don't always follow my own advice).
The creeper will not give you more HP, it will move you at a slower speed and still heep the RPM's higher. If you can find a creeper gearbox that's the way to go. You should post a "Want Ad" over in the classified sction of this site.
Agter watching you video clip of you doing a fine job of snow clearing, I did notice what seams to be a squeeking" or "chirping" sound. Make sure you drive belt is tight.
Glad to see you're not afraid to give it to 'er a bit!
After all this time of being on the forum I finally found a picture of my Dad's Original. (Well part of it) That's me in the back with a creature that I captured on the planet of Pluto. (our family dog Princess) Still looking for more. Enjoy!
Kevin and Jeremiah, thanks for the responses.
The testing of the PointSaver was to take the spark plug out and ground it, disconnect the wire from the points, turn the key on and touch the now loose wire to a ground. When removing the wire from ground the spark plug should spark which it did.
My thinking is that tells me the spark plug, coil and everything else appears to be working. I am now wondering if the wire from the points has a short in it like Kevin indicates. I will have to check that out on Tuesday night.
Well I`am thinking this 125 is going to fight me all the way lol.
I noticed the 125 was hard to steer and thought I did something wrong when I rebuilt the steering box. So working at taking all the spindles out and found the right side was easy. I removed the bolt on top of the spindle and it fell out. Moving to the left side I had a struggle to get the pin out of the top of the spindle. A BFH and it would not move, so I cut some of it off and used my air chisel and a punch. That got the pin out , but the spindle will not come out.This is so seized up I need my BFH just to get it to turn some.
I think I will need some heat
. I have no clue what could be holding it in there now
. I first checked to see what I had for spare parts because I just ordered a few from Charlie today and could have increased that order.I turned the line pressure up to 125 lbs and got the air chisel out. That did the job ,I got rid of the remains of that grease fitting also. I see there was some rust in the sleeve on the spindle and that might be some of it . But I see where the grease fitting was pounded on, I damage the stop for the fitting. I think a round file will fix that. Now to degrease and clean this all up and reinstall with new parts.
I will need to get a pres fit grease fitting in the am . I cooked the grease and rust off with the ultrasonic cleaner , 170 deg for 20 min. Good to go now , I does have some scoring but I don`t think that will be a problem.
i need some help. I have a Kohler 801A from off of an IH 86 restore that i am currently doing. I am on the restore/painting of the motor. I am having a bit of trouble getting the housing off of the motor, i see that the screen that covers the flywheel is screwed in behind the screen making it impossible to remove, and the housing doesn't fit over the screen. How am i to go about removing the housing? Thanks!
Yikes, I'm learning alot about cub cadet troubleshooting right now! Near the end of the fall season, I had a surging engine that turned into a racing engine that darn near frightened me. Luckily, when applying a load the engine would rev down. I thought this was a good thing until I realized, once the load was eased off, the engine would rev up and race again! OH SHITE
<you knowledgeable folks probably see where this is going>
SO FINALLY, i got talking to the parts counter guy at my secret cub cadet supply store and he says "you may need to check that governor there". Okay, I can do that, the book says its pretty easy adjustment.
hello PROBLEM. When I loosened nut securing the governor rod, the damn thing FELL OUT OF THE ENGINE BLOCK. wow, no wonder this thing don't work right.
The best part is my cub cadet counter guy says "huh. that's never happened before. those things are indestructible". So I bought the $10 fix-it part.
Now, what do i need to do to install a new governor? danWI
Dan, what fell out? was it the shaft through govener arm? If I'm correct, I thinking that you are going to have to completely disassemble the motor because If I'm thinking right, thats the last part that comes out on a tear down on a Kohler.