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Archive through January 22, 2004

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herb-

been using my 149 every week since i got it from my dad 10 yrs ago, and he bought it new in '73 (see profile)... it is worth fixing...

i just went through my steering and got rid of all of the play. do a search for the words 'spindle' and '3/4" axle bolt' and look in the FAQ's for the steering box rebuild. the kinpins, axle bolt, rod ends and steering box, each with a little play all add up to 3/4 turn before your wheels move. do a search for my name and you'll find pictures...
 
Travis,

The main reason that I didn't slide the axle further forward is that the fenders would have moved to a point where I could not take the side panels off the engine compartment. I could have cut the fenders farther out, but I think they would have lost their 'fender' look, and it would have also cut into their supports making them weaker. I basically placed the fenders first (as far forward as I could and still get the side panels on and off without too much effort), and then set the axle with wheels underneath them and slid the axle back and forth until it was in the same place as stock so that it 'looked' right. I've only got about 3/8 of an inch between the fenders and side panels, but it's enough to get them on and off without scratching them. I'll take pictures of that junction when I get home this afternoon. You got any pix of your sheetmetal yet?
 
Travis,

Give the guys as smallenginewarehouse.com a call. They seem to have all sorts of commands that fit in 682's and 782's. I don't know if they'll break the parts from the rest of their engine packages, but they know what it takes, from the looks of it.
 
Travis-
If you just turn the engine around and drive off the keyed shaft end, then you can use a off-the-shelf coupling but you'd have to flip the carrier around.

Also you won't be drawing air to cool the engine off a hot hydro, you'd be drawing it out the front. . . . . . that leaves some tricks with the exhaust but it might work.

Just tossing ideas around.

(Message edited by wcompton on January 23, 2004)
 
One more thing, I think the place John Lang did his Deere-Command conversions sells the parts, I'd think with the same hydro parts would be simple.
 
Herb G
There is no question in my mind that you should junk that 149 you've got. There is no way you should fix it up! Just put it out beside your garage and get rid of it. (SMILE)

Oh, please send me a map to your house and email me when you set it out. Oh, would you mind helping me get it in my truck when I get there?
 
Travis....you can use the stock KT series drive coupler. You need to open up the engine air screen area to fit the rubber drive discs, and use 2 rubber discs at the engine end. The only "custom" part you need to make should be the driveshaft. It has to be cut to length. Does the 25 Command have an oil cooler?? Better add one if it doesn't.

Kraig...as always, neat pics! Maybe we can get Art to do a scene where the plow special emerges from the fog draped bridge only to see a set of "ditch lights" in the background closing in fast on him!!!!

Denny...I have are many neat IH & CC pics in the files. You need to stop over some day with yours.
 
Travis,

There is a guy up here in IN that sells new engines at discount, and he has the complete conversion kit to put the Comands in the 82 and 11 serries tractors. I can get you his number and Email if you want it. It is Ray Pagents small engines, in Dun Kirk IN.
 
Ryan M.

We have that splined hydro pump here out of the Super deisel. Gary said he lost your number so he just droped it off so if you still needed one it is here.
 
Travis-

www.smallenginewarehouse.com is Ray Padget, located in the Great State of Indiana.

CH25 is $1400, but I know that Kohler does make a Command 27hp & 28hp EFI now. Give Ray a call, he can probably get those as well.

Look to the 1862 style tractors that came with the Command for coupling. Really good design, and won't fail the way the older style rag joints will.

(Message edited by rmull on January 23, 2004)
 
Mike J., anyone, any idea how fast the QA snowthrower driveshafts turn? I didn't think they were spinning as fast as 3600RPM.

Ken U., thanks, I just got lucky with the camera. BTW, can I stop by with Denny to have a look at your <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> photo collection? :eek:)

Steve B., I recall your suggestion of the steel angle to protect the wood floor. Thanks for the reminder, I'll have to work out something similar when I get the time. My shed sets quite a bit higher than yours, but is built on a slight slope so the "ramp" will actually be darn near level. Here's a photo of the foundation with just the rim joists in place. I used 2x6 joists spaced 12" on center for the floor topped with 3/4" pressure treated plywood.

15328.jpg
 
Ryan, the bigger engines are only available in new tractors, and not over the counter yet AFAIK.

Kraig, I think 1000 RPM is closer. Steve B and I already had that conversation. There's a certain person in WI that is going to make my driveshaft and slip yoke ;-)
 
Kraig,

If the pulley on the QA driveshaft is the same size as the engine pulley, what is the reduction ratio in the right angle gearbox? That'd tell exactly how fast it's turning...
 
Kraig -

And you can figure that out by looking at the bevel gear tooth count listed in the CPE-2...
 
Travis, 1000RPM sounds more like it. Any idea what Kelly Birkey used on the 4x4's that he's built? That pesky high RPM drive shaft and the issues with balancing the two hydros has me reworking how I'm going to go about making the Cub Utility I have in mind.

Ryan, did the package I sent arrive yet?
 
KEN, KRAIG - Only take about 5 min. to look at My IH pic's. Place (FARMALL) had been there forever right? Wasn't going anywhere Right? Oh Well, 20-20 hindsight.
 
Bryan, Mike, yeah, yeah I know, I was just hoping someone else had done the math. :eek:)

I don't know if the snowthrower gear box is the same as the tiller, but the tiller gear box has a 20 tooth and a 30 tooth gear.
 
The parts list I have for the QA gear box doesn't call out the tooth count and it has different part numbers than the gears in the tiller gear box....
 
Kraig -

IIRC, the gears should be the same in all the thrower boxes, and the tooth count was listed in only one or two of the thrower listings.

Yes, the tiller gears are different.
 

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