• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Archive through January 19, 2015

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
MATT M - You have to stick with the kind of bearings you already have. To switch styles of bearings you have to switch housings and that gets expensive.

The cylindrical bearing you mention is what I have on my 50 inch deck. About four years ago I spent $185 for a new bearing and the top and bottom portion of the housing.

The tapered roller bearing style like you have are the cheapest to replace.
 
Keith- You bet, upgrading your Quiet Line to one inch spindles are a nice improvement over the standard three quarter inch spindles. I just lucked out and found a really nice set for my 1450, a new set of wide front rims and bearings saved me a lot of elbow grease. I also had the opportunity to go through the entire tractor and make sure all hardware is correct to the tractor.

I love this forum!!!!!
 
Thank You Jeff,

Mine has a born date of June 1977 so that puts it right between the column change and 1" spindles. Which means I should have the IH embedded cap with 3/4" spindles. But I will change the spindles to 1" when I get chance and cash.
 
Keith O. I like the added spring. My first thought also that it could be automotive valve spring. I'll have to hit the hardware store and see what I can find. The buggy bumper on mine are there to act as spacer more then to absorb bumps


Marlin H. I was somewhat reluctant to cut up the stock part, but I also cut my 106 in half and lengthened it. I figure that there are plenty of unaltered cubs out there that haven't been modified. I mocked it up with the springs sitting on top of the stock mount and it looked and felt to high.
On the gas tank fix, Por 15 make a gas tank sealer that works real well if you have rusted tank with oin holes in it.

Harry B. GO HAWKS!!!!!!
 
Jeff:
thumbsup.gif
 
Keith O. Did Ya have to lengthen or shorten any of the wires on your point saver?

Looks like the coil (red) wire will be a little short.

Been tossing around the idea of adding a quick disconnect (male/female) Packard type connector on the point and coil wire then shortening the ground wire a bit and run it right to the 1/4 bolt on the bottom of the firewall.
 
David,
No, I had more than enough wire I think I even shortened the wire going to the points.
 
Pre-Production Fender Pan- I noticed in the photo of #411 that the back of the fender pan (where the hitch's lift bar runs by) is square, not curved in the later production versions. Anyone know if this design made it into the production tractors? (picture originally posted by Kent Shultz on this forum) Thanks in advance..Joe
293536.jpg
 
Jeff B - Oh No, I have to "dis-agree" with the info from the Farmall Cub and Cub Cadets book.

The 2 steering wheels used on the Quiet Line units have more differences than the 2 you mention. Besides the change to the center cap, and the change making the 3 arms radiating to the center identical size, the outer ring of the steering wheel itself is different. It's a bit hard to describe but the outer ring on the later style wheel was thickened up (made beefier) and the little finger grooves were made less pronounced (not as deep into the wheel material). I'm surprised the Book (Ken Updike?) doesn't mention this. You can definitely feel it when you grab the wheel. Otherwise, I would have never put this later wheel on my 169 and called it a "post-production' change. Are you certain you didn't overlook this additional difference in the Book?

I'm sure there are others on here that will also confirm my info - that the later wheel itself is beefier than the early wheel carried over from the 1x8/9.
 
Joe the early O's had the square cut out with a 1'4'' rod welded in the bend.I have had a couple of them.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top