Archive through January 14, 2004

[jrwilliams]

Are carburetors off of 10, 12, 14, and 16 hp kohler engines the same? just wondering what else will work on the 149?

Thanks!
jim

 

[till]

We need to find a way to put this fever in a steady state. The Yellow/White version seems to be the more virile, yet the Red vaiant seems to be almost as potent too. There has too be help!!!!! My wallet is ready to implode from the out flow needed to keep this fever in check.

 

[hsimon]

Kraig - it is nice to have a "spare tractor" or two. Maybe I should just hook up one attachment to each one and make them "dedicated" units. The draw back is when it is time to service them all at once. Think the local ih dealer likes seeing me walk in the door for filters and hytran!!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Jim W., the carb from the 10hp and 12hp are interchangable but the 14hp and 16hp are unique to each. Having said that, I believe you could use a 16hp carb on a 14hp, but for the best answer to this a post to the IH Cub Cadet Pulling and Hot Rodding forum would be in order.

 

[kweimann]

Jim W.,
All the 14's and 16's I've rebuilt had #30 carbs on them. I'm sure a #26 would work but it may tend to be on the lean side. 10's and 12's used the #26 carb as well. Kenny

 

[wcompton]

Denny-
I found the Rotella at Fisk's Farm & Home in Monona, IA. It was under $2 a quart which is a little more expensive than many, but still much cheaper than the Mobil1 <strike>I've been buying</strike> the pickup's been using.

It's about 25 miles from my place which is about the same as the Theisen's in Dyersville, but has a MUCH larger selcection of oils, filters, parts, tools, paint, etc. I drive by the place every time to my inlaws so it's convienent.

I saw the oil carried an SL rating so I thought I'd give it a shot, seems to be good stuff.

 

[sblunier]

Kenny, Jim,

From info I've gathered from Don V., there are 2 versions of a 30 carb, a 15/16" venturi (common on early 14hp engines), and a 1" venturi (used on 16hp and late model 14hp engines). Not much difference at stock RPM's (under 3800), but apparently the 15/16" version makes slightly more torque under 3600 and the 1" does better when you really open things up (3800+).

I am fairly certain that the 26 carb used on the 10 and 12 is a 3/4" bore venturi. My understanding is that the 30 will not help, but in-fact probably hurt, the performance of a 10hp or 12hp engine.

This info is subject to my memory of a phone conversation from 2 years ago......

 

[dfrisk]

WYATT - I think My case of 6 gallon jugs of 10W-30 was about $6.50/gal. More than Farm & Fleet gets for the 15W-40. It's real good oil. Another friend of Mine that was a HD truck mechanic for years says it's as good as anything else available like Delo, Delvac, etc. Plus EVERY truck stop I've ever been in has a couple gallons on the shelf somewhere if You need it at 1 AM on a Monday morning.
My local CENEX just carries their own brand of oil/filters and a couple other gas engine oils like Pennzoil. Local Checker A/P do carry several other brands, but ALL 15W-40 which is a little too heavy for the 9 degree temps this AM. If it gets cold enough for Me to have to change to the 0W-30 recommended for the colder temps for My truck I'm just staying home till it warms up! I've Never seen it anywhere!

 

[gsharrock]

127 Front PTO

I'm rebuilding mine and I have two questions:

1) I did not get the gauge for adjusting the cluch fingers and tension. Is there any alternative method for adjusting the 3 bolts to ensure proper engagement and dis-engagement?

2) The new "3-legged" spring doe not have turned down tips like the old spring which rested inside the outer rim. The new spring's tips are straight and the set on top of the rim. Is that OK?

Please post and help/advice or email : [email protected]

 

[aaytay]

Hugh-
I think you forgot one tractor on your list...Or don't you count the one's that you've already gotten a buyer for?
;-)

(Message edited by aaytay on January 15, 2004)

 

[sblunier]

Gary,

You have a kit for a late model xx8/9 series with the PTO brake. You need the little bent ends on the spring to hold the button straight in the center of the clutch (it will walk out when disengaged otherwise).

Take the kit back and ask for one for a narrow frame...compare the PN you get to a 100, 124, 127, etc. as they should be the same.

BTDT Bought the T-shirt....it WILL spit out parts if you try to use it with a fiber/brass button style release lever.

 

[kmcconaughey]

The part numbers for the carb assembly from Cub Cadet for Kohlers are as follows:

Part# for 16hp/K341 carb assembly: KH-45-853-09
Part# for 14hp/K321 carb assembly: KH-47-853-30
Part# for 12hp/K301 carb assembly: KH-47-853-22
Part# for 10hp/K241 carb assembly: KH-47-853-22

 

[rdehli]

Wyatt... Fisk's is a nice little store I stop by once in awhile myself ...Have you checked out the Thiesens in Dbq since they opened the new part ...Cool Place

 

[kmcconaughey]

What happened to the forum? I couldn't access it for quite some time. Did someone forget to feed the hampster?

 

[kehrecke]

Tim K:
I've got an aluminum clutch disk in my 1000. I don't care for it at all. It's WAY grabby. Using my one data point, I'd recommend against it for 'around the farm' applications. I think it's better served as a puller's device.

On another note, it seems I purchased a 1200 today.

Keith

 

[till]

Hampser...hampster... and here I thought we were gerble powered. Learn something new every day.

Blazer fell through to day....
Looks like I will stay with being the only car in the crowd.

 

[digger]

Tedd,
At least get yerself some air shocks!

 

[till]

Charlie,
There are next on the list, along with a 12 volt air compressor.

 

[tschweizer]

Tedd, want a dually?? I'll sell anything

 

[till]

Is it a crew cab and under $5000.00 ????